OK, I have the spring compressor, the valve seals, some long nosed pliers a 10mm long socket, some gaskets and time.

In reading the FSM it looks like I have to remove the timing chain cover (front and back) which means removing the oil pan (upper and lower), which in turn means removing the braces and mounts on the underside of the car and supporting the engine by some means.
By the time I get to the valves, half the engine has to be removed. I saw earlier in this chain that one of the guys could do this job in 6 hours - is there a quick way of getting the cams out that I'm missing?
In the diagrams it looks like the cams have dowels to attach them to the sprockets - does this mean I can remove them without removing the timing chain?

Thanks for any help or advice - Lyndon

 

you don't need to remove the upper oil pan or the rear timing cover... take the lower cover off (black stamped steel part) take the two 12mm bolts out of the front of the upper oil pan (inside oil pan) take the 22 bolts off the front cover... remove the timing componets... don't worry about marking anything cause the cams will come out and then you can static set the timing following the FSM... left and right sprockets are the same... don't spin the crank until the cams are out... once the sprockets are off then you can remove the cam towers and the cams are out... all the towers are premarked but use a stamp and mark them in a way you can remember if you don't have the FSM on hand

 

Just started my project. Got the cams out/new seals in on one cylinder before I had to stop. working hungover sucks! I don't know how you manage to do this in 6 hours John! I don't have compressed air, so I've been using the nylon rope method to hold my valves up. Thanks for all the advice though, you were right. FSM adds a bunch of unnecessary steps.

 

compressed air with 3/8" and 1/2" impacts and 3/8" and 1/4" air ratchets with all the swivels... plus doing about 10 times now... I work at a dealership so I have lots of VQ practice

 

Did you finish the replacement of valve stems oil seals yourself??

 

You gave the above answer to "SoCalVQ35deengine" in response to his oil leak problems.

What should be the "As-New" compression on this engines?
Is there a difference between the regular and High Rv in compression?
Do you know if the user mentioned above managed to replace all the oil seals on the valves?

Thanks, LW

 

Does anyone know a mechanic who replaces the valve seals in So Cal area? I tried going to one I used to go but he refuses to touch inside the engine. Also if anybody is interested to do this I am more than happy to pay them in the SoCal area, just PM me.

 

PM johnwigs. He's in SD according to his profile, and he looks like he knows his stuff.

 

hello...
I thought my ears were ringing...

 

If I read this thread correct the valve guide /oil seals can be replaced with all tools listed and roughly 6-8 hrs depending on the level of mechanical knowledge and experience. Besides John has anyone done this ? My valve guides seem to be shot and I have a rev up. Beaides blowing whiteish

 

If I read this thread correct the valve guide /oil seals can be replaced with all tools listed and roughly 6-8 hrs depending on the level of mechanical knowledge and experience. Besides John has anyone done this ? My valve guides seem to be shot and I have a rev up. Beaides blowing whiteish/blue smoke is there a tale tail signature that it's for sure the valve guides ? My extended warranty company said the valve guides/oils seals are covered but it needs to be proven that it's the part thats causing the mechanical failure. Can you see the bad seal from top side after all that's removed or does the head need to come completely off to see that ? If I'm swapping the seals would it be bennificial to do upgraded cams and retainers and springs as well?

 

tell tale sign of valve stem seal failure is blue smoke during engine deceleration... (in gear, foot off the clutch and "coasting", downhill is best) head does not need to completely off but I would do a compression test/leak down test to see if also your rings are worn... if it is a RevUp then it is a sure bet the rings are toast... might as well do a complete teardown and do a fresh build... if you are doing just the seals, might as well do springs and cams since you are removing all of that to get to the seals...

 

I had a compression test done and they all were in the 190-195 range with a 5-6% leak down. After reading the tsb that was put out about all the issues I had that done. I'm seein the blueish smoke when I come to stops with the clutch in and breaking and more when I take off. It does it at idle as well. I ordered the Ferrea vition seals jwt spring shim kit the other day from czp after that I'll be picking up a set of c8s as well. I also noticed that after I added 10/30 the smoking wasn't as bad with 5/30. Which is when my mechanic said it was for sure in the valve area. Went from adding a every 3 days to now maybe 6 or 7 days.

 

^ Your posts make me concerned that you are talking about valve guides when the thread is about valve stem seals.
Which do you think is wrong with your car?

 

Dave I'm under the assumption it's the valve seals. Not the guides. I'm picking up some cosworth zk2 cams at a hell of a price and already talked to a shop that's going to do the complete swap for a grand. Seals springs and cams. All in one shot.

 

I also ran seafoam in the crankcase for 50 miles cause I thought the oil control rings were still holding some synthetic oil in them and allows the conventional oil to slip by. That helped out a lot. I've been checking the oil level frequently and there's still a little consumption and it only smokes on start up now.

 

Is there a DIY for this job, or do people just use the FSM?

 

There is, somewhere. Search through posts by JohnWigs