Did my 60k service this past weekend and the dealer found out that my AC hard line has a leak and thats the reason why I don't have AC.. 310$ (part + labor) to fix.. How can I do this my self?

Another issue they found was that my belts need to be replaces soon.. is this hard to do? Any aftermarket belts i can buy?

 

thanks in advance!

 

[Been lurking on this forum for a while... but you gotta start somewhere. So here's my first post ]

For the belts I'm pretty sure there's a DIY thread somewhere on this forum if you search. From what I've read, the older Zs use a stationary pulley to set tension on the belt while the newer ones (2006+?) use a tensioner pulley. Mine is a 2008 so uses the tensioner. If you've never changed a belt before, changing the A/C line may be a challenge :-).

For the A/C line; it shouldn't be difficult to replace but there is a process. One of the hard parts is figuring out where the leak is. It sounds like you already have that covered. I haven't done this on the Z yet, but have on other vehicles. I'm assuming it's the same. Typically there are quick-disconnect fittings at the ends of the lines that can be released using a plastic tool to slip around the tube and slide underneath the fitting. Before you remove it, you'll need to ensure that there is no refrigerant in the lines. You should use a pressure gauge to check. If there is pressure in the lines, you will need to evacuate it first (or you could get hurt by pressurized gas freezing your fingers -lol). Legally (depends on state I guess) you are not allowed to evacuate the refrigerant into the air. Shops typically capture the refrigerant into a tank and recycle it. If the system is already evacuated you should be able to easily replace the leaking line and the O-rings on the ends. It's quite possible the line itself is fine and the O-rings are just leaking. If this is the case, you can replace the O-rings. You'll want to lubricate the O-rings with A/C oil to ensure a good seal.

Once the O-rings and/or line are replaced, you can't just put refrigerant back in. Since you opened up the system to replace the line, air from outside has entered into the system (along with moisture). You must vacuum out this air using a vacuum pump and ensure that the system can hold the vacuum pressure. If not, it means you have a leak. Typically this is done with a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge to ensure there is no leak. Once the vacuum process is complete, you can then put refrigerant back in up to the specified pressure (check the service manual).

Short and sweet - if it were me, I would first validate with a pressure gauge there is no refrigerant in the lines, if no pressure (likely), then I'd replace the line myself. After replacing I would get a shop to vacuum and refill the system.

 

it also might be a fuse issue for my AC, how can i differentiate from the leak vs fuse?

 

I thought they said it was a leak? or are they just guessing? If they are quoting $310 based on a guess, be prepared to spend more money. A/C repair can get expensive quick. They should have validated the leak with a vacuum test and found the source using ultraviolet dye to confirm.

There are several "electrical" aspects to the A/C. The fuse is only one part. The ultimate goal of the electrical system is to engage/disengage the A/C clutch which turns the compressor on and off. There are typically pressure sensors on the high and low sides of the A/C system. Pressure will naturally increase/decrease while the system is running. The sensors play a role in cycling the system on and off to ensure the compressor is not overburdened and running continuously non-stop. Further the sensors prevent the compressor from running if pressure drops completely due to a leak (which is possibly your case). There is also typically a WOT (wide open throttle) sensor that shuts off the A/C compressor clutch if you push the gas pedal to the floor to prevent turning the compressor at high RPMs.

The quickest way to differentiate would be to get a pressure gauge and hook it up. If no or very low pressure, then you have a leak. Otherwise, if pressure is perfectly fine, you likely have an electrical issue you need to sort out.

 

if it's the hardline from the compressor, it's not difficult, just cramped. I just spent a little over $400 to have the line replaced (somehow moved around and rubbed the pulley). $175 for the line, $75 for labor, whatever for the recharge, and a few other small things.