Fixing up a salvage [Posted on *********]
11-03-2010, 09:21 AM
#41
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The water level sensor plugs under the bottle between the 2 pumps.
One of my cars will not start and the temp sensor reads -22 even after changing out.
Down here you can schedule an appointment without completing those little issues.
You will need receipts for major body, running gear or structural components only. [airbags rad support etc and lights receipts did not count]
You can insure the car and get a 10 day temp tag to drive to the center...or locate an enclosed garage for temp rental.
One of my cars will not start and the temp sensor reads -22 even after changing out.
Down here you can schedule an appointment without completing those little issues.
You will need receipts for major body, running gear or structural components only. [airbags rad support etc and lights receipts did not count]
You can insure the car and get a 10 day temp tag to drive to the center...or locate an enclosed garage for temp rental.
11-07-2010, 12:06 PM
#42
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UPDATE
Got both seats out of the car and tested them on external power and I'm finding that the motors are seized up so I'm contemplating a few options and am trying to get some feedback:
- Replace with factory heated/leather seats
- Buy aftermarket manual seats (Bride/Sparco/Corbeau/Momo)
- Buy factory cloth seats
I saw in the classifieds some two-tone manual leather seats, and if I pick them up it should be possible to swap the heat into them, correct? As I have heated seats now that work (in terms of heat).
Other than that I was able to get the Airbag Control Module out so I can pick up that piece and move on with the project.
Got both seats out of the car and tested them on external power and I'm finding that the motors are seized up so I'm contemplating a few options and am trying to get some feedback:
- Replace with factory heated/leather seats
- Buy aftermarket manual seats (Bride/Sparco/Corbeau/Momo)
- Buy factory cloth seats
I saw in the classifieds some two-tone manual leather seats, and if I pick them up it should be possible to swap the heat into them, correct? As I have heated seats now that work (in terms of heat).
Other than that I was able to get the Airbag Control Module out so I can pick up that piece and move on with the project.
11-14-2010, 07:00 PM
#43
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[UPDATE]
Took apart the switch today and found many rusted bearings and contact points, polished it all up and put it back together. I'll test it soon to see if all went well, in the meantime here are some pics of the switch if anyone was ever curious:
Took apart the switch today and found many rusted bearings and contact points, polished it all up and put it back together. I'll test it soon to see if all went well, in the meantime here are some pics of the switch if anyone was ever curious:
11-23-2010, 11:57 AM
#44
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good work and good progress! i just joined because i crashed my z a couple of weeks ago
i read your post and it helped me alot alreayd thanks!
ill be keeping an eye on this
goodluck
i read your post and it helped me alot alreayd thanks!
ill be keeping an eye on this
goodluck
01-10-2011, 07:44 AM
#45
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[UPDATE]
It's been awhile since I've updated this thread as I've been busy with my semester but here is what's going on:
Ditched the seats, and got some used Heated/Leather ones from another user, as well as the dash piece I was missing and an A/C Temp Sensor.
In case anyone is looking at the thread for help, here are some tips I have for anyone doing this kind of rebuild:
Drivers Airbag:
Consult the FSM, it was invaluable. Also get a torx and reverse torx set, preferably something with a T-handle as you'll need the leverage to get the steering wheel off. Other than that, the shrouds come off pretty easily via 4 screws undearneath, remove the ignition plastic ring and the rest pry's and pops off. You have to remove the gauges to get to the back of the spiral cable, and it all goes back together fairly easily.
Passenger airbag:
You need to removed the bottom first, and then one 12MM bolt that holds the pass airbag in, only after this and few screws on the front will that part of the dash come out. I had no idea how to do the cup holder since mine was broken, and ended up snapping a few clips (I was working outside and it was sub 20F).
Seat belts:
Yes you need to remove the door welts, plastic on top of that, side trim AND the trim around the subwoofer. Disconnecting the yellow/orange clips you need to pop up the black piece with a smalls screw driver. When trying to install new seat belts, they will feel stuck, but position them in and it magically un-retracts easily so you can bolt them up.
I'll update with pictures sometime this week. Other questions:
Now that all my SRS equips are in place, will resetting my ECU most likely clear it all up? Is there anything else I should check for?
I can't find clips that will fit the front wheel well liner, anyone find any that will work?
It's been awhile since I've updated this thread as I've been busy with my semester but here is what's going on:
Ditched the seats, and got some used Heated/Leather ones from another user, as well as the dash piece I was missing and an A/C Temp Sensor.
In case anyone is looking at the thread for help, here are some tips I have for anyone doing this kind of rebuild:
Drivers Airbag:
Consult the FSM, it was invaluable. Also get a torx and reverse torx set, preferably something with a T-handle as you'll need the leverage to get the steering wheel off. Other than that, the shrouds come off pretty easily via 4 screws undearneath, remove the ignition plastic ring and the rest pry's and pops off. You have to remove the gauges to get to the back of the spiral cable, and it all goes back together fairly easily.
Passenger airbag:
You need to removed the bottom first, and then one 12MM bolt that holds the pass airbag in, only after this and few screws on the front will that part of the dash come out. I had no idea how to do the cup holder since mine was broken, and ended up snapping a few clips (I was working outside and it was sub 20F).
Seat belts:
Yes you need to remove the door welts, plastic on top of that, side trim AND the trim around the subwoofer. Disconnecting the yellow/orange clips you need to pop up the black piece with a smalls screw driver. When trying to install new seat belts, they will feel stuck, but position them in and it magically un-retracts easily so you can bolt them up.
I'll update with pictures sometime this week. Other questions:
Now that all my SRS equips are in place, will resetting my ECU most likely clear it all up? Is there anything else I should check for?
I can't find clips that will fit the front wheel well liner, anyone find any that will work?
01-21-2011, 05:03 AM
#46
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[Update]
- CEL fixed itself
- Put air in tires and TPMS light went off, although FR tire I think has a solid leak.
- SRS still blinking
- At idle car takes ~10 minutes to become warm, and is stable through 30 minutes
- Oil pressure idles around 28-30psi
- ABS + BRAKE light are on
- CEL fixed itself
- Put air in tires and TPMS light went off, although FR tire I think has a solid leak.
- SRS still blinking
- At idle car takes ~10 minutes to become warm, and is stable through 30 minutes
- Oil pressure idles around 28-30psi
- ABS + BRAKE light are on
01-21-2011, 05:05 AM
#47
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- New Hood Latch Ordered (old one rusted, can't close hood)
- New Hood Prop ordered (forgot before, kept taking the hood off lol)
- Emblem, Hood, Bumper, lights, under fascia mounted
still need to mount:
- RL turn signal (can't easily get to that one 'screw' that needs to turn to take off the bumper)
- FR/FL wheel well liners
- License plate brackets
- New Hood Prop ordered (forgot before, kept taking the hood off lol)
- Emblem, Hood, Bumper, lights, under fascia mounted
still need to mount:
- RL turn signal (can't easily get to that one 'screw' that needs to turn to take off the bumper)
- FR/FL wheel well liners
- License plate brackets
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