2008 Z clutch bleed problem
Hey!
I've been doing some work on my Z and had 1 liter of DOT4 fluid left so I had the idea of bleeding the clutch. Car has 30k miles.
The problem I have goes like this.
- I hooked up the sililcon line on the bleeder valve and emptied old fluid.
- Filled the clutch fluid reservoir to full.
- Depressed the clutch a few times and last time stayed depressed.
- Opened valve let the fluid out and closed valve.
Now the clutch stay floored. I mean of course since there is zero pressure in hose from mater to slave cylinder! If I pull the clutch out I'm creating vacuum so the clutch floors itself when I release it.
What is the white plastic thing on top of the master cylinder? It look like some sort of valve?
Should i pull the clutch pedal out forcefully?
Since I'm in my bed thinking what the heck am I doing wrong right now... a paintbrush pic to explain the 0 pressure / vacuum thingy =] drawn with touchpad of course. =P
I've been doing some work on my Z and had 1 liter of DOT4 fluid left so I had the idea of bleeding the clutch. Car has 30k miles.
The problem I have goes like this.
- I hooked up the sililcon line on the bleeder valve and emptied old fluid.
- Filled the clutch fluid reservoir to full.
- Depressed the clutch a few times and last time stayed depressed.
- Opened valve let the fluid out and closed valve.
Now the clutch stay floored. I mean of course since there is zero pressure in hose from mater to slave cylinder! If I pull the clutch out I'm creating vacuum so the clutch floors itself when I release it.
What is the white plastic thing on top of the master cylinder? It look like some sort of valve?
Should i pull the clutch pedal out forcefully?
Since I'm in my bed thinking what the heck am I doing wrong right now... a paintbrush pic to explain the 0 pressure / vacuum thingy =] drawn with touchpad of course. =P
Last edited by crossmax; Jan 14, 2011 at 12:39 AM.
Didn't you read the service manual? The first thing under bleeding the clutch is:
"Monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty."
At this point, it won't hurt anything to pull the pedal back up. There's a return spring in the master cylinder that should have done that.
"Monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty."
At this point, it won't hurt anything to pull the pedal back up. There's a return spring in the master cylinder that should have done that.
And no the spring doesn't have enough power to push itself out.
It's like a full syringe. When its closed at the end you can push and it will come back cause of pressure piston builds. But when you release the end, fluid will be pushed out. Now when you close the end there will be a back pressure / vacuum which will pull the syringe piston back in.
You're doing the same with master cylinder? You open release valve, push the fluid out and close the valve. Now the vacuum is holding the piston.
At brake fluid mater cylinder there are two valves from the reservoir. One at start and one on end of the mater cylinder. So when you flush the fluid out the piston can get fluid from first valve at the end of the cylinder. Clutch master cylinder has valve only at the start.
you are making this way more complicated than it really is. dont worry about any valves or anything on the master... just take the cap off. if you would have read in this section of the forum you would find this.....https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...g-an-05-a.html like three threads down from yours.
you are making this way more complicated than it really is. dont worry about any valves or anything on the master... just take the cap off. if you would have read in this section of the forum you would find this.....https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...g-an-05-a.html like three threads down from yours.
Anyway opened master cylinder cleaned it of some kind of black sediment. Than followed this video on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0.
Used 500ml syringe and a silicone hose to push the fluid the other way around from release valve to fluid reservoir. Took me 5 min. Clutch works way better than before. Bye bye air bubbles. =]
Last edited by crossmax; Jan 14, 2011 at 01:51 PM.
U didnt really understand...im not trying to be a dick...im just saying its very simple and its the same for basically all hydraulic clutches.... It will stick everytime until u get the air out...the only tools u need to do it is a wrench to open and close the bleeder on the slave, and a bottle of fluid.
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