I haven't been able to find any torque specs on here for the spark plugs. I am changing them now and noticed that 3 out of 6 of my plugs were very loose pretty much hand tight if that while I was removing them. I did a general search online and have found torque specs on aluminum heads from about 13ft lbs to 29ft lbs.

 

15-21 ft-lb (180-252 in-lb).

I just did my, and torqued them down to 20 ft-lb. It is a good idea to go back after a few heat cycles and re-torque them.

 

From the O6 FSM:

 

Hey Sasha are you able to get to the plugs without removing the intake manifold? I just removed everything as it seemed easier but to just re-torque them that seems like a bit of work. Those coil packs are hard to get out.

 

I just did mine. At the risk of being yelled at, is it necessary to torque them? I just tightened them as much as possible with my socket wrench and it seems to run just fine.

 

Yes it is possible, I have done it for this reason (re-torque). It is a bit of a PITA but can be done. You just have to unclip the coil from the harness, and it comes out easily. A 1/4" drive will get to all the 10mm bolt holding things down, to allow good access to the plug. I also use spark plug anti-seize, you can never be to careful with aluminium.




This is a very good way to get rid of a lot of money. If you strip the aluminium head, you are up the creek. The heads will have to come off for proper repair/replacement. There is a reason they invented a torque wrench. You don’t always have to use it (eg: suspension components), but when dealing with aluminium it is almost a must.

 

Thanks Sasha! One last question, if these plugs were loose I assume I lost some compression, if I had it tuned with the three plugs loose now that I tightened them will this throw my tune off? I plan on keeping a close eye on my a/f gauge.....

 

I've never really used a tq wrench on plugs, I just turn them down hand by hand until they hit bottom, then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. You'll feel the crush washer give a bit, then you know you're good to go. Never had one come loose on me and surely have never stripped out a head. Remember to use anti-seize compound on the plug threads.

 

I don't think you should worry about your tune that much, but do check your a/f just to make sure.



I have no problem doing this either because I have a feel for it. People that have never done it though, can easily over tighten them and make a mess. Aluminium will give you plenty of warning/feel back, if you know what to look/feel for.

 

I used the anti-seize and torqued them to 20ft lbs all the way around. I didn't put them nearly that tight when I installed them the first time. Even 20ft lbs seems like I was going to tear the threads out lol (but that's just me being paranoid, knowing what is at stake). I'll re-torque them in a couple of weeks after some heat cycles to make sure they are still to spec. Thanks for all the advice!

 

What's up guys, I have been searching for almost 2 hours a cannot seem to find a thread on the torque specs to change the spark plugs on my REV-UP , if anyone knows the many INCH POUNDS because that is the only torque wrench I own as of now please help me out I cannot find it anywhere. If it is on here somewhere I must have missed it I scrolled the rough multiple pages of threads. Again please help need info ASAP


CALLING ALL ENGINE GURUS!!

Thanks in advanced guys.

 

Here you go. Search "Spark plug torque"

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ark-plugs.html

 

If it's 18ft lb. How many inches in 1 foot? 12 inches.

18ft * 12in = 216

So you would want to do 216in lbs to equal 18ft lbs.

 

ive always just hand tightened, then done about a 1/2 turn with a ratchet. starting the plug by hand is a good way to make sure you dont cross thread, and the specs on the plug boxes say about a 1/2 turn more is all you need. never had a problem out of my Altima, and I assume my Z will be the same way when i change her plugs.