terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, no idea on the part numbers. All i do is call Fontana Nissan, talk to Scott and i always get the right part in the mail. Fontana Nissan may ship to Canada, but i don't know if it would be cheaper , more expensive etc etc for you.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

not to thread jack for my own purposes, but i have a similar issue ( i think).
Found this thread USING SEARCH, and appears recent as well.

Plus i trust the guys in the thread know what theyre talking about.


Replaced clutch w a JWT and JWT fly... also went w a stainless steel line , new pivot ball, nismo needle bearing , new slave etc.. all new stuff.

Point being is that its surely NOT my master cylinder. I hope...
Heres MY symptoms:

The clutch doesnt seem to disengage fuly enuff to make the shifting reasonable.. its VERY notchy. BIG TIME. I miss shifts all the time now. I have to mash it to the floor hard to get it to free up a bit.

I notice that if i idle in a drive thru window for a few minutes.. in neutral, that the pedal gets very stiff and snappy. Has a high engagement point.

I also noticed that after having the car sit for 6 days while on vacation it seemed FAR more spongy and lose w a very LOW engaement point and only after driving it a bit did the snappiness come back.. but again, not enuff play to shift well.


I brought it back to the shop and they "adjsuted the pedal height".. but im curious if my sytptoms are due to an error w that adjsutment or just possibly an air bubble.
Lots of threads on how to bleed etc.. but none stating " Bleed you clutch if THIS is your symptom" etc etc...

thanks guys.

Its really making the car a drag to drive and i already broke a shifter over it. I ahve a feeling it wasnt soley TWMs fault.
Just want it fixed.

350zion

iTrader: (58)

I jus went thru similar issues, after replacing the master, using motive power bleeder I found that the pressure plate was separating from the flywheel... Jim wolf aluminum stripped out I'd say 6 out of I believe 9 bolts.... I had to drop the tranny n replace this time I used act street lite steel flywheel..

I too had to mash on the pedal to the floor... Many attempts at bleeding only made the p plate separate more....
Remove the dust cover from the fork on the side of the tranny n look in with a light.. u may see a gap between the to bearing n fork...

With the car running, u will notice the p plate wobbling...

Sasha i believe something similar happened to u with ur jwt....

Jus offering my experience.... Good luck!

nissanZdriver

For my 05 Z the master cylinder fixed my issues.

Last year when I bought my car the pedal started to stick and would not come back up. So after doing some searching, I read threads where some people say all you have to do is replace the clutch fluid. I replaced/flushed the clutch fuild with brand new fluid, and the pedal was better for a few weeks then it started to stick again.

So this year when i pulled the car out, I started to get a soft/spongy clutch pedal. So i did more research on here and google. And I found people replacing either the slave or MC, or both at the same time. So I started with the slave, which did nothing.

I replaced the clutch master cylinder, and that was it, the pedal pops back up, the pedal is firm and the best thing is that my shifts are smoother. It was notchy as hell with the old MC. Especially in the morning when its cooler out.
So now i'm happy and my left leg is starting to hurt again from the firm clutch pedal.

One more thing, When I was searching on here for sticking clutch pedal, i found a few people with 05's with the same issue, and they said their MC had orange colored gunk build up in their MC. Well I took my old one apart and it was the same way. I could have probably just cleaned it out, but I just replaced it.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

My master slave and lines are brand new tho..and are OEM.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Since you mention it was different after letting the car sit for a few days i would have to say its an air bubble. Bleed it again, BTW its a PITA to get the air out of the system.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

its easy to get the air out if you pump can the fluid into the slave and out the master.

air rises, so it makes more sense to push fluid the same direction the bubbles want to go naturally. great vid on youtube on how to do it.

StraySheep

iTrader: (9)

Then my clutch pedal sticking problem is almost certain the Master cylinder, since my Z is 2006.

For parts, replacing the entire MC will cost over $100, where as rebuilding would cost less than $20 from what I read here. But labour wise is the pretty much the same as most of the work is for removing and installing the MC from and to the car.

I am leaning towards rebuiliding the MC. According to the service manual, the only parts that should be replaced are the 15. reservoir seal and 10. Stopper ring. Are there any other components I should buy as well while rebuilding the MC?

Thanks.

Boosted Performance

iTrader: (14)

I paid $60 for a brand new MC up here where everything is at least twice the cost compared to you guys south of the border. I noticed that rockauto has brand new MC for about $35. IMO it's not even worth rebuilding.

My clutch has been tourble free since the MC replacement.

nissanZdriver

I ordered my MC from autozone. It was the cheapest/fastest I could find for $51.99 with a lifetime warranty, I prepaid and they had it next day. I thought about rebuilding myself, but Its kinda of a big job with bleeding and all that, if you f*ck up and tear a new seal or dont do it right you have to remove it then bleed again, etc, etc.

And like someone mentioned above, bleeding is a PITA, so be patient. Cuz i got frustrated after a while.

StraySheep

iTrader: (9)

$60 for a brand new MC? Where in Canada?
Is that OEM Nissan part or aftermarket equivalent?

If it's really $60, then I would just buy a new one and forget about rebuilding the old one.

Mynismo.com sells them for $99.67 (P/N 30610-CD00B) before shipping.
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2335

I am guessing it will be even more expensive to buy from a Nissan dealer here in Canada. I will find out tomorrow.

Thanks.

Boosted Performance

iTrader: (14)

Nissan wanted $123 or something like that. I found one at Bumper to Bumper for about $62, and yes it was brand Nissan equivalent.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Took me less that 10 minutes, and it would be really hard to tear the seal. Did you at least take it apart so check it out?

nissanZdriver

yeah I took it apart after i installed the new one. Its a simple design and easy to rebuild, but I guess something like this I'd personally rather just replace. If my only option was a $100+ MC from nissan then id rebuild it.

makizm69

iTrader: (1)

i have the same issue, just recently my pedal just dropped after a lot of driving one day and wouldn't come up. tried flushing the system but no luck so i replaced MC and still can't get it to flush...

i've done it millions times on other cars and brakes on this Z but clutch just doesn't listen, is there a certain way i have to do it?

i got my clean vinyl tube on the slave cylinder dipped in the water, full reservoir of brake fluid then: pedal down > open valve > close valve > pedal up > few seconds wait for MC to suck in some more fluid and all over again

what happens is when i open the valve after pedal is pressed, the fluid shoots out really fast after 2 second pause and never takes up entire volume of the tube. never seen this behavior before

any suggestions?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Pressure bleed is easiest, but when the valve is open , compress the slave by hand all the way, that gets a lot of extra air out of the slave.

makizm69

iTrader: (1)

service manual specifically says not to use pressure bleeder but i guess ill give a try to a pump can and push the slave

makizm69

iTrader: (1)

fluid started leaking from the trans case, so this leads to the slave cylinder.... which is inside the housing, f**k you nissan for this design!

ZSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (71)

We have Heavy duty slave kits available for the HR and VHR cars.

Check the link in my sig to purchase.


HD Slave kit

makizm69

iTrader: (1)

can someone verify for me if not reading this correctly, does mean that slave cylinder must be replaced when replacing the transmission?

"CAUTION: Never reuse CSC (Concentric Slave Cylinder) body and CSC tube. Because CSC slides back to the original position every time when removing transmission assembly. At this timing, dust on the sliding parts may damage a seal of CSC and may cause clutch fluid leakage."

mine failed less then a year after dealer replaced the trans, i hate to blame people for no reason but it does sound suspicious considering what service manual say.

also, in nissan system it says release bearing part# is covered by the warranty but slave cylinder not how is this possible if it's one part lol makes no sense...