blew up DE engine, need a new one so post away ppl!!
06-09-2011, 12:28 PM
#22
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I think your two best options are...
1. Take your chance with the VQ35DE 'mystery' block.
2. Get a built motor.
Can't go wrong with a brand new built motor right?
I hope all goes well for you man.
1. Take your chance with the VQ35DE 'mystery' block.
2. Get a built motor.
Can't go wrong with a brand new built motor right?
I hope all goes well for you man.
06-09-2011, 01:42 PM
#24
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no, more power would defintely not be the point...
im na now and blew an engine.. not cool.
So i dont feel like doing this again until im 40, hence built bottom end and rods that wont even think of breaking.. not to mention a balanced and blueprinted engine hand clearanced by a performance machinist versus an assembly line worker at Nissan.
Zero carbon built up.
Perfect new gaskets.
A rev up oil pump.
a bigger pan or spacer.
new engine mounts
koyo radiator
maybe some headders.
new DW injectors
im hoping the core and rush shipping wont be the deal killers here... again, if i can squeeze this around 6 grand, im money. I wanna stay closer to 5 than 10 is the idea.
im na now and blew an engine.. not cool.
So i dont feel like doing this again until im 40, hence built bottom end and rods that wont even think of breaking.. not to mention a balanced and blueprinted engine hand clearanced by a performance machinist versus an assembly line worker at Nissan.
Zero carbon built up.
Perfect new gaskets.
A rev up oil pump.
a bigger pan or spacer.
new engine mounts
koyo radiator
maybe some headders.
new DW injectors
im hoping the core and rush shipping wont be the deal killers here... again, if i can squeeze this around 6 grand, im money. I wanna stay closer to 5 than 10 is the idea.
06-10-2011, 04:46 AM
#27
I wanna put my 2 cents in before you go pay a buncha money. I am finishing my N/A engine build (car is driveable and I am breaking in the motor but I got 1 more thing to fix yet) and the total cost (with a CD009 transmission and alot of good parts) is about $7500. If you take some shortcuts and don't go all hardcore like I did, you could easily be under $6k It cost me $1275 for machine work, balancing, blueprinting, head work, installation of the new springs and retainers and coating the bearings. Parts ran me about $4k, (but I went alittle all out on that and you don't need cams now) and me and 2 of my friends tore it all down and put it all back together. After doing the tear down, reassembly and everything myself, I am actually pretty surprised how easy it was. Follow the nissan manual, mark everything and baggy every bolt and nut and label them! I am confident that as long as you have a friend who knows what is up, you can do this by yourself! Save yourself the money!
PS If you do it yourself in a garage. Remove the front radiator support and just pull the tranny and engine straight out the front.
PS #2 Why do you need new engine mounts? Are they worn out?
PS If you do it yourself in a garage. Remove the front radiator support and just pull the tranny and engine straight out the front.
PS #2 Why do you need new engine mounts? Are they worn out?
Last edited by Classy; 06-10-2011 at 04:49 AM.
06-10-2011, 07:30 AM
#28
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yeah im not the guy for that, no garage, no tools etc. Id love that, but it aint in the cards for me..
Dynostys quote came out to almst 8600 dollars including the core of 1500 which i woul of course ship back... but um... thread said 3600.. so where that extra cost came from i dont know, gave me a bad taste for a new customer w 4500 to spend.
PMd IMport Parts Pros ( closer to AZ too) on thier stage 1 long block.
Hopefully they can rush something for me.
Intnese is beginning the tear down on the car Monday to get the peripherals off the current engine and get it stripped down to a core.
I asked them to shoot pics so i can post the process. I may start a new thread for it, add them here, or add them to my Intense Flat black wide project thread.. dunno, ill link them in here either way.
Dynostys quote came out to almst 8600 dollars including the core of 1500 which i woul of course ship back... but um... thread said 3600.. so where that extra cost came from i dont know, gave me a bad taste for a new customer w 4500 to spend.
PMd IMport Parts Pros ( closer to AZ too) on thier stage 1 long block.
Hopefully they can rush something for me.
Intnese is beginning the tear down on the car Monday to get the peripherals off the current engine and get it stripped down to a core.
I asked them to shoot pics so i can post the process. I may start a new thread for it, add them here, or add them to my Intense Flat black wide project thread.. dunno, ill link them in here either way.
06-10-2011, 09:27 AM
#29
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looks like IMport Parts Pro is going to giveme a straight deal.. waiting for the invoice to show up up so i can pay.. 3 week wait tho.. ugh. plus shipping, plus install time..
carpooling w my ex-ish gf for what looks like the next 2 months... my ***** are already so far into her back pocket it already hurts.. eesh.
carpooling w my ex-ish gf for what looks like the next 2 months... my ***** are already so far into her back pocket it already hurts.. eesh.
06-10-2011, 09:34 AM
#30
Take a breath man!!! I know how you feel, I've been through 5 built motors. The best advice I can give you is to slow everything down for a minute. Figure out what you really want to do first.
IMO a built motor is a complete waste of money. Also, keep in mind you are going to a high end tuner shop for what is basic mechanical work, you are paying a premium for that work I am sure. Paying for the autopsy is both a waste of money and time. Most times a definative cause will not be found and since you drove it while it was knocking (I did this once) it will booger everything up so bad its almost impossible to say what failed first. If anything, the logs will tell you what you want to know.
Also, how does knowing what failed really help? With any new setup you install you will need a new tune. This is when you spend the dollars for the high end tuner shop.
I would say a used running longblock from a senior member on the forums or a used longblock bought online with some kind of warranty would be best and most cost effective. If you want more security you could get a new long block, but don't think for a second that the better option is having one built by a tuner shop vs facory Nissan. These car companies spend millions to make sure that chimps can put these engines together and they will still last 150k+ miles. Intense is a great shop, but not as great as a car company.
Best of luck with your situation. You could salvage some parts off the old block, just nothing that touches the oil. Its really too bad that you don't have a garage and a few friends. I can pull a VQ engine and trans in a day with one other person. Its really not that hard.
IMO a built motor is a complete waste of money. Also, keep in mind you are going to a high end tuner shop for what is basic mechanical work, you are paying a premium for that work I am sure. Paying for the autopsy is both a waste of money and time. Most times a definative cause will not be found and since you drove it while it was knocking (I did this once) it will booger everything up so bad its almost impossible to say what failed first. If anything, the logs will tell you what you want to know.
Also, how does knowing what failed really help? With any new setup you install you will need a new tune. This is when you spend the dollars for the high end tuner shop.
I would say a used running longblock from a senior member on the forums or a used longblock bought online with some kind of warranty would be best and most cost effective. If you want more security you could get a new long block, but don't think for a second that the better option is having one built by a tuner shop vs facory Nissan. These car companies spend millions to make sure that chimps can put these engines together and they will still last 150k+ miles. Intense is a great shop, but not as great as a car company.
Best of luck with your situation. You could salvage some parts off the old block, just nothing that touches the oil. Its really too bad that you don't have a garage and a few friends. I can pull a VQ engine and trans in a day with one other person. Its really not that hard.
06-10-2011, 09:41 AM
#31
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i hear ya.. not autopsying the motor.. just pulling the peripherals off the top to ahve a core to send back.. i agree, dudnt matter what who or where, rods gone its gone.
My situation is that i have a strange tendency to awaken the fates of engine blowing often.. for no apparent reason. Ive had new engines in everything ive ever owned... and i understand cars, the systems, and maintenance etc too.. and i dont race.. and i dont abuse it.. i just have extremely bad luck.. its funny almost.. its my calling card.
SO, i hope to dissuade further implosions by using forged components. Thats all.
AND.. i only come to that conclusion as the only engine nearby in town is at 56k miles... and they want two grand... um.... id rather spend 4 and ahve it all brand new and forged. Im also not to pleased w the early death of my current block... so i hear ya about Nissan, but at the same time.. meh.
Intense hooks me up on everything i do, Petes a friend of mine. Luckily ha.
Labor will surely be costed out for actual time, and i plan to assist as well. Learn a bit more etc. I work 3 miles away.
I will surely have time to breath.. this is going to take FOREVER. ha.
My situation is that i have a strange tendency to awaken the fates of engine blowing often.. for no apparent reason. Ive had new engines in everything ive ever owned... and i understand cars, the systems, and maintenance etc too.. and i dont race.. and i dont abuse it.. i just have extremely bad luck.. its funny almost.. its my calling card.
SO, i hope to dissuade further implosions by using forged components. Thats all.
AND.. i only come to that conclusion as the only engine nearby in town is at 56k miles... and they want two grand... um.... id rather spend 4 and ahve it all brand new and forged. Im also not to pleased w the early death of my current block... so i hear ya about Nissan, but at the same time.. meh.
Intense hooks me up on everything i do, Petes a friend of mine. Luckily ha.
Labor will surely be costed out for actual time, and i plan to assist as well. Learn a bit more etc. I work 3 miles away.
I will surely have time to breath.. this is going to take FOREVER. ha.
06-10-2011, 11:33 AM
#33
Whoa! Just saw this thread! Sucks man, sorry for your loss… 
I bent a rod on my car back in February at the drag strip (360 whp at the time)… I ordered all the parts from Pete a few weeks ago, I’m just finally in the process of getting the parts to Intense’s machine shop, after that the engine goes back to intense for assembly and installation, then it’s off to ProEFI for tuning.
Glad to see your downtime won’t be as long though! Good luck with your build!
I bent a rod on my car back in February at the drag strip (360 whp at the time)… I ordered all the parts from Pete a few weeks ago, I’m just finally in the process of getting the parts to Intense’s machine shop, after that the engine goes back to intense for assembly and installation, then it’s off to ProEFI for tuning.
Glad to see your downtime won’t be as long though! Good luck with your build!
06-14-2011, 10:52 AM
#34
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I decided to have Intense build the engine.
Id rather have one shop liable for the entire thing then to play a waiting game, pay to rush ship, etc etc.. and then have issues and a finger pointing war... never good.
Plus i trust them, and TCI wont be too much more... Engines already out, stripping it down and sending it to machining soon... possibly going FI.. unsure yet. I may or may not have a rare opportunity w that.
Id rather have one shop liable for the entire thing then to play a waiting game, pay to rush ship, etc etc.. and then have issues and a finger pointing war... never good.
Plus i trust them, and TCI wont be too much more... Engines already out, stripping it down and sending it to machining soon... possibly going FI.. unsure yet. I may or may not have a rare opportunity w that.
06-15-2011, 07:34 AM
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decision has been made, going FI.
Cant wait. Thanks everyone on the advice... i did alot of calling and researching, almost bought rfom a few places.. but in the end, my home shop made it happen.
Cant wait. Thanks everyone on the advice... i did alot of calling and researching, almost bought rfom a few places.. but in the end, my home shop made it happen.
06-16-2011, 12:43 PM
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yeah theyre going all crazy w it.. 67mm garret..1200 cc injectors, dual 255 pumps, return fuel system, Hans trying to make 700 rwhp with it i guess. Dunno.. if it comes back to me w 500 at the wheels i will still be pleased as punch as long as i have a street gas map that gives me over 400.
Last edited by bmccann101; 06-16-2011 at 12:52 PM.
06-16-2011, 04:10 PM
#39
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why dual walbros?
Why not single or dual DW300 pumps?
650 whp on a reflash? Can the maf be trusted at those levels?
Short blocks are very inexpensive...getting them assembled to a longblock is where the price really adds up. Then paying someone to swap it..bend over and get ready for it. I got SB quotes from a few shops last year and got the same sticker shock you did.
Shooting for a set WHP goal is dangerous...
Why not single or dual DW300 pumps?
650 whp on a reflash? Can the maf be trusted at those levels?
Short blocks are very inexpensive...getting them assembled to a longblock is where the price really adds up. Then paying someone to swap it..bend over and get ready for it. I got SB quotes from a few shops last year and got the same sticker shock you did.
Shooting for a set WHP goal is dangerous...
06-16-2011, 04:14 PM
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I'm not providing all the details yet..I dont have them all..but powerlab is re releasing a newer stage two kit being protod on my car. They have the reigns..most has already been paid for. Ill b happy w 450 whp...they as a shop are shooting for much higher. My win.