70k miles on 04, what to do?
i am like most people that do not live in the upperclass and able to afford all maintenence at the stealership when needed. Thus far i replaced brakes, heater core, radiator, belts, plugs at 30k. other than that always had an oil change on time. What should i really be doing to ensure this baby will run for much longer? What would you guys recommend to be done immediatly, and what could wait. Thanks for the input.
On my old Mustang i put in full synthetic on an engine that had 160k miles on it. Well that caused the oil to work to good. it blew the head gasket. at 70k miles on the 350z would you guys make the transition to blend for 2 cycles then full synthetic?
On my old Mustang i put in full synthetic on an engine that had 160k miles on it. Well that caused the oil to work to good. it blew the head gasket. at 70k miles on the 350z would you guys make the transition to blend for 2 cycles then full synthetic?
Huh!? You are blaming synthetic oil for blowing your old Mustangs head gaskets? Not sure if anyone has ever debated oil on my350z before... Maybe try a search. Read each post carefully and get back to us with your decision.
70k miles isn't that many.
70k miles isn't that many.
My question is a general question on what people would do in my situation. there is no standard protocol to what i was asking.
i am like most people that do not live in the upperclass and able to afford all maintenence at the stealership when needed. Thus far i replaced brakes, heater core, radiator, belts, plugs at 30k. other than that always had an oil change on time. What should i really be doing to ensure this baby will run for much longer? What would you guys recommend to be done immediatly, and what could wait. Thanks for the input.
On my old Mustang i put in full synthetic on an engine that had 160k miles on it. Well that caused the oil to work to good. it blew the head gasket. at 70k miles on the 350z would you guys make the transition to blend for 2 cycles then full synthetic?
On my old Mustang i put in full synthetic on an engine that had 160k miles on it. Well that caused the oil to work to good. it blew the head gasket. at 70k miles on the 350z would you guys make the transition to blend for 2 cycles then full synthetic?
Only thing I've done is oil changes every 6,000 valvoline semi-syn.
Brakes/front&rear.Belts at 60,000.
Same plugs...Thats it dude.Same oil pressure...car runs better than new.
Why the radiator/heater core?
Plus mods,popcharger,intake z tube,spacer,Nismo catback.
The Nissan motor is pretty bullet proof if you don'y overdue it..
Enjoy yourself,you'll livelonger!
Last edited by JCITY; Jul 20, 2011 at 04:32 PM. Reason: addition
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Chill out...my 03 just hit 70,456.
Only thing I've done is oil changes every 6,000 valvoline semi-syn.
Brakes/front&rear.Belts at 60,000.
Same plugs...Thats it dude.Same oil pressure...car runs better than new.
Why the radiator/heater core?
Plus mods,popcharger,intake z tube,spacer,Nismo catback.
The Nissan motor is pretty bullet proof if you don'y overdue it..
Enjoy yourself,you'll livelonger!
Only thing I've done is oil changes every 6,000 valvoline semi-syn.
Brakes/front&rear.Belts at 60,000.
Same plugs...Thats it dude.Same oil pressure...car runs better than new.
Why the radiator/heater core?
Plus mods,popcharger,intake z tube,spacer,Nismo catback.
The Nissan motor is pretty bullet proof if you don'y overdue it..
Enjoy yourself,you'll livelonger!
i do the same thing, except i use PYB 5-30w, OEM Oil Filter in 3k intervals. Engine runs good and pulls hard. I also cleaned the TB and MAF @ 70k. Other than that i followed OEM maintenance schedule. By the way, i have over 100k right now and still running strong.
have fun with your Z!!!
I drove a toyota truck usings 5-30w synthetic up to 178,000 and when i sold it (to buy my Z) it was running perfect. Wheeling, towing, snow, traffic, it did it all and barely burned any oil inbetween changes
Chill out...my 03 just hit 70,456.
Only thing I've done is oil changes every 6,000 valvoline semi-syn.
Brakes/front&rear.Belts at 60,000.
Same plugs...Thats it dude.Same oil pressure...car runs better than new.
Why the radiator/heater core?
Plus mods,popcharger,intake z tube,spacer,Nismo catback.
The Nissan motor is pretty bullet proof if you don'y overdue it..
Enjoy yourself,you'll livelonger!
Only thing I've done is oil changes every 6,000 valvoline semi-syn.
Brakes/front&rear.Belts at 60,000.
Same plugs...Thats it dude.Same oil pressure...car runs better than new.
Why the radiator/heater core?
Plus mods,popcharger,intake z tube,spacer,Nismo catback.
The Nissan motor is pretty bullet proof if you don'y overdue it..
Enjoy yourself,you'll livelonger!
i do the same thing, except i use PYB 5-30w, OEM Oil Filter in 3k intervals. Engine runs good and pulls hard. I also cleaned the TB and MAF @ 70k. Other than that i followed OEM maintenance schedule. By the way, i have over 100k right now and still running strong.
have fun with your Z!!!
have fun with your Z!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwdYzWzc170
If you've never cleaned the MAF, I would start with that before digging further. Try this stuff or something similar: http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co....aspx?PN=05110 Heck, I'm half sure it's brake cleaner (acetone) but not "sure" enough to cheap out and chance it.
I know it's intimidating reading the things you've missed, but following many of those service suggestions is just like an insurance policy to keep you from getting stranded/inconvenienced at the side of the road one day, rather than a catastrophic failure of a major component. If you're not that concerned about getting stuck on your way home from work one day, then you can chose to ignore some of them.
For example, I'm not that sure if/when it says "replace all rad hoses" but I would never do that unless there was obvious flaws/wear or one had finally failed. I know it's cheap of me, but I am confident that I will know if it fails right away and I'm not that worried about the hassle of dealing with it at that time. Now, if I traveled a lot more to remote areas with my vehicle, I would probably think differently. I take a close enough look at those components often enough that I feel confident in using my judgement to determine their replacement interval, rather than blindly following a book. You know what I mean?
I know it's intimidating reading the things you've missed, but following many of those service suggestions is just like an insurance policy to keep you from getting stranded/inconvenienced at the side of the road one day, rather than a catastrophic failure of a major component. If you're not that concerned about getting stuck on your way home from work one day, then you can chose to ignore some of them.
For example, I'm not that sure if/when it says "replace all rad hoses" but I would never do that unless there was obvious flaws/wear or one had finally failed. I know it's cheap of me, but I am confident that I will know if it fails right away and I'm not that worried about the hassle of dealing with it at that time. Now, if I traveled a lot more to remote areas with my vehicle, I would probably think differently. I take a close enough look at those components often enough that I feel confident in using my judgement to determine their replacement interval, rather than blindly following a book. You know what I mean?
MAF? Its just discouraging when i look at the scheduled maintenance and look at all that i have missed. One thing i do want to do is clean out the throttle body, i feel a slight burp when at idle sometimes. Not often though. I saw this youtube video and thought it would be a good idea
-C
Last edited by SlipZ; Jul 21, 2011 at 09:07 PM.
i have a 04 touring 72k miles, every fluid has been changed twice. using 10w-30 mobil 1 oil if not the oil psi gauge is off the chart.
check rear subframe bushing for leak. check hoses to heater core and relief valve. make sure u get the tranny fluid from stealership gl4 additive must be in it for brass synchros. check cyclinder 6 for oil in spark plug tube.
check rear subframe bushing for leak. check hoses to heater core and relief valve. make sure u get the tranny fluid from stealership gl4 additive must be in it for brass synchros. check cyclinder 6 for oil in spark plug tube.
If you've never cleaned the MAF, I would start with that before digging further. Try this stuff or something similar: http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co....aspx?PN=05110 Heck, I'm half sure it's brake cleaner (acetone) but not "sure" enough to cheap out and chance it.
I know it's intimidating reading the things you've missed, but following many of those service suggestions is just like an insurance policy to keep you from getting stranded/inconvenienced at the side of the road one day, rather than a catastrophic failure of a major component. If you're not that concerned about getting stuck on your way home from work one day, then you can chose to ignore some of them.
For example, I'm not that sure if/when it says "replace all rad hoses" but I would never do that unless there was obvious flaws/wear or one had finally failed. I know it's cheap of me, but I am confident that I will know if it fails right away and I'm not that worried about the hassle of dealing with it at that time. Now, if I traveled a lot more to remote areas with my vehicle, I would probably think differently. I take a close enough look at those components often enough that I feel confident in using my judgement to determine their replacement interval, rather than blindly following a book. You know what I mean?
I know it's intimidating reading the things you've missed, but following many of those service suggestions is just like an insurance policy to keep you from getting stranded/inconvenienced at the side of the road one day, rather than a catastrophic failure of a major component. If you're not that concerned about getting stuck on your way home from work one day, then you can chose to ignore some of them.
For example, I'm not that sure if/when it says "replace all rad hoses" but I would never do that unless there was obvious flaws/wear or one had finally failed. I know it's cheap of me, but I am confident that I will know if it fails right away and I'm not that worried about the hassle of dealing with it at that time. Now, if I traveled a lot more to remote areas with my vehicle, I would probably think differently. I take a close enough look at those components often enough that I feel confident in using my judgement to determine their replacement interval, rather than blindly following a book. You know what I mean?
I am in the same boat about hoses. the belts were replaced because of major wear.
..Just follow the OEM schedule and you wll be fine. Most of the Maintenace procudure is listed in the DIY or Tech area. As dave jackson, says you can choose not to do extra, but its your call..Regarding the TB, do not disconnect the TB wire connector when you clean them. You have enough access to clean it without taking the connectors off. If you disconnect the TB connector you need to do the throttle reset procedure which is long. Do your research and ask the mODS if you have to..
-C
-C






