The clutch pedal on my 350z does not come all the way back..

It comes back enough so that its not engaged, but I still have to pull it back a good 2 inches with my foot.. any ideas?

 

Does it go back to normal after a bit, then happen again? You pull it back up with the top of your toes? Had the same thing on my 06...needed a new clutch. Was really worn down. Been 6 montths and no issues.

 

sometimes it will pop back up on it's own, but very rarely... I always have to pull it up...

sometimes it doesnt happen until after driving for 15 min or so...

 

Could be several things... the easiest to fix and eliminate is air in the line... bleed the system and see if its still happening.

Another reason could be either your slave/master cylinder is shot, not always easy to identify, but sometimes they leak the clutch fluid out so you will be able to see that if thats the case.

Third reason is the problem im having currently is your throw out also known as release bearing is shot, but you would hear it making noise if that were the case.

Good luck dude

 

Im having the same issue as OP , i replaced the master and slave already but i dont think i bled the system correctly. What does a bad bearing sound like?

 

Well if you dont think you bled it correctly, i would try and do that first because its relatively simple and quick, and doesnt require any parts other than brake fluid... if you'd have a fried throw out bearing you would most likely know already... usually when they go, you will hear a loud ururuurururur when you depress the clutch pedal, if this is untreated, it will get to the point where that noise goes away and you have a constant high pitched squeel when the clutch is engaged... so if you're standing at a light with you foot NOT on the pedal it will be squeeling.... also when you depress the clutch slowly, at the point where you are disengaging your clutch, you will feel vibration in the pedal (if the bearing is toast)... i have driven in a few cars with fried throw out bearings and they all follow this general pattern.... but like stated previously, you would have noticed these symptoms because they are pretty annoying....

 

Lmao @ sound fx but thanks , i dont have any noise but the clutch sticks at WOT , when i try bleeding the clutch doesnt come up on its own i need to pull it up any tips for proper bleeding?

 

Have you completely flushed out all the old fluid and replaced it with brand new fresh DOT 4 fluid. Also use Wd-40 and apply it to the clutch pedal assembly and work it in by pumping the clutch pedal. I had this exact symptom upon leaving with my car from the dealership in hot houston rush hour traffic After flushing out the fluid the problem has not returned. Only other thing it could be is Slave and then Master.

http://g35driver.com/forums/drivetra...ch+pedal+fluid

 

I notice when its raining or not extremely hot out(miami) the pedal feels harder and shifts are much smoother,but on hot days the clutch does all sort of wierd ****. Also i notice i put DOT 3 in not DOT 4 :/ so i will be flushing and rebleeding with Motul DOT 4 soon. Also got the Redline tranny fluid so i will be doing a complete tranny/clutch maintenence.

Do i flush the old fluid by simply opening the bleeder valve?
Is the $55 for the Motive bleeder worth it?

 

Get the motive since you can use it both for clutch and brake. It makes it much easier for one person to do it and you will have it done right. Stick with Dot 4 due to higher boiling point. I am pretty sure this should be resolved with swapping fluid since I had the exact issue and only came about when it was hot outside and I was repeatably using the clutch in rush hour. I am sure with track days that does not help your case at all for the condition of dot 3 fluid.


You can either use a turkey baster and suck out fluid from reservoir and fill it back up like 15 times to flush out all old fluid while pumping clutch 10 times in between each fill up. It takes a lot of time and chance of introducing air in the lines. Just get the motive and get underneath and crack open the bleeder until you see nice and clean fresh fluid.

 

I usually get a buddy to help me out when i bleed my clutch... the way i do it is take the cap off of the reservoir and get all the old fluid out via a turkey baster or something along those lines..... then i put new fluid in.... i get my buddy to pump the clutch a few times then as hes pushing down i open the bleeder located on the tranny (drivers side) and let the fluid flow out, try to close the bleeder before your friend gets the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. After this you no longer need to pump the clutch, you can just open the bleeder while ur friend continues to depress the clutch... and yes the clutch pedal will stick to the floor when bleeding because you are relieving all of the pressure in the system when you open the bleeder... your friend will need to pull it up using his toes.... hope this helps, ive been bleeding like this and have had no problems... sorry for the long posts lol

 

Aren't all the clutches noisy??? hah

+1 to bleed/check/replace fluid

 

One more thing and ill stop bothering i promise lol

Would this work?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=601274_0_0_

Just curious since i can pick this up locally

 

Not sure dude, cant see why not... like i said i dont use a bleeder, i just get a friend to help me out and some clear tubing...

As for the post above, yes all clutches are noisy, but when you have a shot throw out bearing you know lol, its a very distinct noise