Junkster

iTrader: (3)

CMC (Concentric Master Cylinder) is basically connected to the clutch pedal.

the Throw out bearing is connected to the Slave so its basically like a hydraulic throwout bearing. In essence if your TOB is bad you gota replace the slave as well...cant pick and choose between the two.

I find it hard to believe a TOB making a poping noise though, then again i would have to hear it in person...

IfastR

iTrader: (1)

update again.... Just got a call from the dealership and it is the slave!

Deteria

iTrader: (2)

TBH, I'm not really sure what is going on, but I was told it was the TOB from the service advisor. My car had it's CMC TSB performed @ around 1k miles via looking up thru their system. All I know is, when I 1st bought the car @ 10k miles, it drove perfectly fine, no popping issue. Now @ around 19k, it makes a popping sound almost every time I let off the clutch pedal. Perhaps I should go have the CMC replaced again?

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

Is the popping noise coming from the pedal area or the trany??

IfastR

iTrader: (1)

sounds like my clutch pedal. There would be about a second delay before it'd fully return and it would make a "popping" noise I guess you could say. If thats the problem you're having you are on borrowed time till you don't have a clutch pedal anymore. It will most likely be the Slave. Good luck.

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

If this is the sound in question its basically the the helper spring pushing the pedal back to its original place due to some air in the lines. It very well could also be a sign that your master or your slave is going out or maybe it was improperly bled and you have a nice little air pocket somewhere.

Deteria

iTrader: (2)

For me, it sounds like the pedal. So is it urgent I go have service done? I thought it was the helper spring at 1st too.

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

well the helper spring makes it "pop" back into place causing that sound since the pedal is mushy it doesnt come back on its own from the lack of pressure in the line.

If you have never messed with it and never had to bleed it yourself, the likely hood that its gona break on you is pretty high. Mine felt mushy and the slave broke all in about 5 minutes, but then again i was drifting at the track and beating the crap out of the slave clutch kicking and stuff...

I would recomend either doing a gravity bleed and see if it helps things, or just taking it in. The slave is in the tranny so i dont know if your willing to take on that task, but regardless a shop should be able to diagnose the problem. it very well COULD be your master...which would make life WAYYYY easier for you.

Aku

iTrader: (1)

Maybe somebody here can help me with my issue. Sorry for the wall-o-text that is about to follow.

A week ago I turned the car on and put the clutch in and it was barely disengaged enough when the pedal was at the floor for it to get in gear. Managed to get it into first and then literally had no play from full pedal in to the friction point and limped it out of the garage and stopped. Then I pushed the pedal in again.. Heard/felt a pop noise and now it feels similar to a brake pedal w/ no fluid. I pumped it several times and it never felt any better. There is 0 fluid leak anywhere and the reservoir is still full above the min line.

My first thought was the CMC seal so the fluid would just rush past the plunger and back into the res (making the pedal 'limp' and not actually push on the slave). Bought a new CMC and got that installed yesterday and now the System will not bleed.

I know for sure the new CMC works because I loosened the high pressure hard line a bit and pushed the pedal and was able to leak a little fluid between hard line and cmc. Tightened that back up and went to bleed but after the 5 pumps and hold then crack the bleeder valve absolutely 0 fluid would come out the bleeder valve. I spend 3 hours with my roommate trying the pump and hold technique and using the power bleeder at 5-15psi. Nothing works. Did a bunch of forum searches and found the mess with the plunger / pedal adjustment thingy and I tried that in the middle and both extremes. Still no fluid.

The pedal does not stick and will return to the normal position (because of the internal spring in the CMC) but the only resistance in the pedal is that same spring so I know I'm not pushing against any fluid. Under the car the slave also does not move at all.


Tonight I plan to try disconnecting bleeder valve completely to try and get fluid through the slave. If that doesn't work I'll pull the banjo bolt off the slave and try to at least get fluid through the lines.. If that works then I'll replace the slave but if not then I may have a clog in a hard line which would suck.

Anybody else have any thoughts?

edit: (this is on a 04 G35 but shouldn't make a difference)

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

^it makes a pretty big difference actually. IF you read the wholeeeeeee 2 pages of posts you would realize that the slave on 07-08's is inside the tranny...not outside like yours. Thats besides the point

The best (and only way i will ever bleed the clutch on my z from here on out) is to gravity bleed.

1) get a friend
2) get under your car
3) have said friend crack open master cyl cap
4) crack open bleeder valve with clear tube dripping into a cup
5) let it slowly drip out
6) have friend fill up the cmc reservoir as needed
7) refill the reservoir like 3-4 times (probably more in some cases no lie)
8) tighten your bleeder valve
9) get out from under your car
10) hope your friend is a hot chick
11) tell her to make you a fuggin samich

DONE

Aku

iTrader: (1)

Touche, Didn't realize the difference in slave thing.


And although your response is hilarious and full of win, doesn't really address my issue. I had a power bleeder on it with 15psi and nothing would come out the bleeder screw, I'm pretty sure just opening the res cap and cracking the bleeder screw and just sitting there for years won't bleed it either.

Deteria

iTrader: (2)

My clutch pedal feels fine when I push on it. My left foot/leg got stronger after getting accustomed to the Z's clutch pedal. So however it does feel easier to press with my left foot after driving the Z now, I switch to my right foot to press and it feels relatively more resistant.

I'll probably take it in to the dealer in a couple of months. However my car has already had the TSB done in the past.

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

Ask pretty much any vendor that has experience bleeding clutches on the z and they will all pretty much tell you that gravity bleeding is the best option. In my case it was the ONLY THING that worked.

I didnt use a power bleeder but i used a vacum pump (handheld) that "sucks through" from the bleeding location and it didnt do CHIT. spent a total of god knows how many days with my stupid z on jack stands doing conventional pump till pressure and release bleeder valve style. I spent 30 minutes letting it drip out watching the bubbles come out SLOWLLYYY and it worked pathetically well...

What im trying to say is dont knock it till you try it, i was sceptical as well..lol

Aku

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. Perhaps when I get home I'll toss it up on stands and pop the res cap off then go under and crack the valve open and then take a cat nap under the car and see what happens after 15-20 minutes.

Thanks

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

Im sure you already know this but make sure to attach a hose! dont just let it drip out in the open

Aku

iTrader: (1)

Yes. I've done my far share of bleeding before haha.

I replaced the slave and cmc on my old SVT focus all in one go and the bleeding of everything at once was no where near this complex or annoying lol

Aku

iTrader: (1)

Ok so car is in the air... Cap is off. Res is full. Bleeder valve is open... Any estimates on how long I need to wait before I see something happen?

Edit: nvm. Gravity bleed = no work

Turns out fluid will flow through the lines when I disconnected the banjo from the slave. Pulled the slave and tried to push air through the slave. No dice... Grabbing a new slave tomorrow and all should be well..

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

Slave must be all poopoo'd up. Did you take it apart? maybe i just needs to be cleaned...thats what i had to do with my master lol

Aku

iTrader: (1)

Probably could just be cleaned but a new one didn't hurt the wallet too much so now I just have a new one and nbd. picking it up after work and installing. Will report back if all is well

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

Even though my attempt of helping has mostly been rendered useless ill still go ahead and add that on the HR's when the slave goes out it really contaminates the fluid in the lines quite a bit. I was advised by one of the vendors here that it could be a good idea to take apart the master and clean it out as alota crap gets in there when the slave goes out.

When i took my master apart it indeed was full of black crap from the slave so they were right haha and it did help in having rebleed and install go smoothly

Im not sure if this really applies as much to DE's since the slave design is so different but it may be something to consider since your going to have to rebleed the system anyways...

just my .02