jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

so today driving my car no problem, get home park it, go to head to my doc appt and everything in the car just dies. go under the hood and the fusable link in the power distro box that normall connects to the battery is blown. figure out the alternator is apparently grounded to itself, have a connection using a ohm meter between the case and the battery cable post on it after unhooking the cable. so no problem i replace it, hook up a jumper wire for the fusable link and go to crank her up, runs for a about 15 seconds then dies and the jumper wire is smoking. unhook the terminal again and the new alternator is reading like it is grounded to the case as well.

so i move on to try and figure wtf is going on, unhook the cable from the alternator use a different jumper wire and try again. couple clicks from the starter and everything dies minus it seems power doors and guages, but the guage lights dont work. unhook the connectors and the bottom of the power distribution box and test each prong in the connector and im getting a ground signal from every single prong. i unhooked everything ive installed in the car, sound system, guages, fuel pumps, meth pump, oil scavage pump, meth controller, boost control solenoid, dual widebands, haltech absolutly everything still have a ground signal. car wont even start without the alt power wire hooked up but then theres a nasty ground and wires try to catch fire so no go there. but the thing is absolutly no other fuse blows at all, which has me beyond stumped since everything else uses a smaller fuse then the fuseable link that blew. the otherthing is if i hook everything up, the jumper wire might smoke but the car runs absolutly fine, then it just dies, no sputter simple off.

first time ive encountered anything like this, anyone else experienced something similar or have any idea where those four connectors might come togeather outside the power distro box that normally hooks to the battery?

konrad

iTrader: (15)

check your starter, could be the problem internally in the starter, the wire that connects the starter also connects the alternator, so if you already unhooked the alternator than there must be a problem with the starter shorting out. At least thats what I come up with after reading your post.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

not getting anything from the starter, leaving it hooked up but alternator unhooked results in no ground from that wire. plus the other connectors in the fuseable link connector show ground when not hooked up and they arnt connected to the wire. i did just find the ipdm though that i dint know even existed so im checking it out now.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

cant see anything wrong with it but i think im gona just get rid of this hulking piece of **** and rewire **** to eliminate it =/ and hopefully find wtf is going on while im at it. at least i might be able to find the problem since it seems two of those 4 wires lead into it. plus i think i might have broke it taking it apart =/

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

anyone ever eliminated the ipcm by chance? thinking that is my problem and if it wasnt it damn sure is now since mine isnt working. damn sure not going to spend 500 to put a new one in it, ill sell everything i have first and convert to the v8 swaps.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

oh god looks like everything is ran on can so i cant eliminate this without rewire the entire car.................... ****ing dumb ****

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

subscribed...this is interesting!

So you say that you loose the notorious grounding issue when you disconnect the alt?

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

no i dont, with all the connectors unhooked from the fusable link holder every prong, aka the entire car harness, is grounded. the new alternator is grounded but it wasnt when i put it in which tells me something else ****ed up the brand new alternator.

i believe that was the ipdm which now no longer works at all since i opened it up to see if i could see anything wrong with it. something is grounding every single wire in the harness and thats what blew the main fusable link. the battery cable was actually hooked to the alternator cable when the fuse originally blew, so there was no fuse between the alternator and power cable, the rest of the harness being grounded is what caused it to blow, ipdm. but im giving up before i take a sledge to the car, i dont have the patience for chasing down something stupid and paying 500 for a box because nissan seems to think it needs 800 modules in a car.

i can see it for some things like sensors but why the hell does my headlight switch need to tell a box to turn the headlights on then the box tells a relay and the relay does it. can system is mostly just a way to make you pay more money for dump ****. relays worked just fine for years

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

plus turning the key now does nothing. before i could turn the key and without a jumper wire the guages and a couple other things but fuel pump would not nor would any of my lights and starter would click for a second and die thats what made me think it was ipdm but now i get nothing.

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

^you running a haltech standalone?

Cause if you werent for some reason im thinking the ECU might have fried...is there any way you can test?

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

when i tested to see if it was anything i did i unhooked the harness going to the engine so haltech and oem ecu where both unhooked. im pissed at the car but cooled down a little and think i might try to run a cable throttle body and remove everything i dont need and just rewire the car.

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

I know where your coming from, and the only thing I can say is patience is a virtue! Lol

Just realized that your on the islands, are you sure corrosion isn’t an issue?…might sound stupid but its not hard for wiring to rust up near the ocean. Provided that you have a haltech and boosted you must have an ok amount of wiring done to the car that you did yourself. Before you go and rewire everything recheck everything that you have already tampered with.

Its too hard to tell what the deal is with your situation, best thing to do is start from square one and start retracing your steps…

Wish i could come up with something better!

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

unhooked everything i put in as well as oem ecu and nothing, i have most of the harness under the dash and in the engine compartment unwrapped and cant find anything. i believe it is the ipdm though because unhooking the can wires from it the ground vanishs. so i think the ipdm has a short or something, found a used one on ebay for 100 bucks im going to try it before i start rewiring. also corrosion isnt much of a issue here, ohio was far worse where the car came from but no signs on any of the connectors minus the original battery ground which is no longer used. once the ipdm comes in ill post what i find.

0jiggy0

iTrader: (13)

So the main power feed to the alt and starter is grounding out? Find out where its rubbing against the chassis. Maybe its hitting the exhaust and melted. What kind of resistance are you getting from the alt connection and to the connection to the battery.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

no i inspected the entire cable its fine everything was intact, the alternator was grounded out, but putting a brand new alternator in that had no issues also grounded to the case after trying to start the car. have a new alternator again but not messing with it until the ipdm i ordered comes in. something else was screwing up the alternator the ENTIRE wire harness was grounded. as in alternator cable, and ALL three fuse box's i unhooked the ipdm and the ground vanished. tryed to take it apart see what was up inside couldnt find anything so i put it back togeather but now nothing attached to it works so i think i screwed that.

however even though nothing works, hooking it back up grounds every single wire in the harness again, i started unhooking connectors and it seems to vanish when i unhook the CAN connector which leads me to believe that the ipdm is grounding the CAN network and through that causing my grounds to the other connectors. especially since some of the connectors that should have power but are showing a ground, are ones whose only connection to the ipdm is the CAN cables, which the ground to those connectors vanish as soon as i unhook the ipdm from the CAN network. unhooking the other stuff, bcm, abs, ecu causes no change in the ground.

im going to wait till i get the module i ordered and will report back, however it is interesting to note that numerous nissan platforms have huge problems with there ipdm's

i will say again the amount of crap on the can system nowadays is retarded. outside of sensors being sharded between the bcm, and ecu for stuff like tach signal, wheel speed sensors, slip ect theres no reason the starter, fuel pump, headlights, turn signals, ac control all need to be on can the switchs and relays for that stuff do the exact same thing the modules do. pretty much like having two relays to turn on the fuel pump or starter its stupid and provides more points of failure that most people cannot diagnose like this.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

update, replacement ipdm seems to have worked, thinking the board in it started catching a ground inside itself. still using a jumper wire just to test since the fusable link is blown but im not getting the smoke from the jumper wire i was before, nor am i getting sparks and attempts to weld when hooking up the power cable, and the ohm meter is showing me no more ground as well.

guess it might not be a huge thing with our cars like other nissan vehicles but still possibility for it to randomly happen.