Low oil Pressure issue, CEL on. Looking for opinions among dealer options
05-01-2012, 03:09 PM
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Low oil Pressure issue, CEL on. Looking for opinions among dealer options
Hey guys
I posted my issue on a separate thread but I think I am better off starting a new one after the latest diagnosis.
Just a few things first, I am not very handy when it comes to cars, to add to that I live in a condo so i have no garage and hence no tools or a place where I could work on the car, the car is also my daily driver so i cannot afford to work on it and leave it for the next day to continue...this is why I usually have to revert to taking it somewhere for repairs which up till now had been none.
The car recently got a CEL, I took it to the dealer and the codes were P0011 and P0021. The Oil pressure on the car is lower than it should be, I must say I had noticed this as the needle on the gauge has been lately sitting close to 0 at idle and even when revved it will only get to 30Psi once I am at almost 3000 rpm.
After running tests etc, they came back to me with not very good news, could be an issue with the oil pressure switch, could be solenoids/sprockets and 3) something else inside the engine.
I figured go for the easiest thing and change the switch, this was a no go.
I spoke to the mechanic and he said he could go for option 2 which were the solenoids/sprockets but he honestly doubted that it would be it, it was rare they would both go bad, he was leaning more towards something else for which they would have to open up the engine and once thats done the charges just add up.
They quoted me 200 for the switch which i had them change and it was a no go...then around almost 2000 for both solenoids/sprockets but he could not guarantee me it would fix the issue and he said honestly he said it probably wouldnt. Then option 3 was a list of possible parts that could be bad if it was something for which they had to open it up and the cost would go way up due to labor etc...quoted me something around 4-5k. He said at that point/cost it was almost better to get a new engine which would be around 7k form nissan plus labor or a used one. The car also is making a weird noise when hitting certain rpms sometimes which he said was coming from the sprocket area (he took me in there and revved it so i heard it too, was not bs).
I asked the mechanic if it was his car what he would do? I definitely wasn't going to go for option 2 or 3 at this time I told him i was taking it with me as, is no matter what for now.
He said if it was his car he would drive it as is, keep an eye on the pressure and if i see the pressure drops more or i hear knocking then doing something about it. He said it could last like that for years who knows. He recommended using maybe a heavier oil on oil changes but that's about it until and if something does happen
What do you guys think? the car drives fine i hear no noises, its not stalling or anything if it wasn't because of the CEL i wouldn't know anything is wrong with it.
As for now I have decided to drive it as is for now while I think things tru. Again remember I do not have the option of doing much myself due to lack of expertise, space, tools etc...so my decision has to lean more towards paying to get something fixed or driving as is until something does go bad and then spend the money and fix it....
Thanks!!
I posted my issue on a separate thread but I think I am better off starting a new one after the latest diagnosis.
Just a few things first, I am not very handy when it comes to cars, to add to that I live in a condo so i have no garage and hence no tools or a place where I could work on the car, the car is also my daily driver so i cannot afford to work on it and leave it for the next day to continue...this is why I usually have to revert to taking it somewhere for repairs which up till now had been none.
The car recently got a CEL, I took it to the dealer and the codes were P0011 and P0021. The Oil pressure on the car is lower than it should be, I must say I had noticed this as the needle on the gauge has been lately sitting close to 0 at idle and even when revved it will only get to 30Psi once I am at almost 3000 rpm.
After running tests etc, they came back to me with not very good news, could be an issue with the oil pressure switch, could be solenoids/sprockets and 3) something else inside the engine.
I figured go for the easiest thing and change the switch, this was a no go.
I spoke to the mechanic and he said he could go for option 2 which were the solenoids/sprockets but he honestly doubted that it would be it, it was rare they would both go bad, he was leaning more towards something else for which they would have to open up the engine and once thats done the charges just add up.
They quoted me 200 for the switch which i had them change and it was a no go...then around almost 2000 for both solenoids/sprockets but he could not guarantee me it would fix the issue and he said honestly he said it probably wouldnt. Then option 3 was a list of possible parts that could be bad if it was something for which they had to open it up and the cost would go way up due to labor etc...quoted me something around 4-5k. He said at that point/cost it was almost better to get a new engine which would be around 7k form nissan plus labor or a used one. The car also is making a weird noise when hitting certain rpms sometimes which he said was coming from the sprocket area (he took me in there and revved it so i heard it too, was not bs).
I asked the mechanic if it was his car what he would do? I definitely wasn't going to go for option 2 or 3 at this time I told him i was taking it with me as, is no matter what for now.
He said if it was his car he would drive it as is, keep an eye on the pressure and if i see the pressure drops more or i hear knocking then doing something about it. He said it could last like that for years who knows. He recommended using maybe a heavier oil on oil changes but that's about it until and if something does happen
What do you guys think? the car drives fine i hear no noises, its not stalling or anything if it wasn't because of the CEL i wouldn't know anything is wrong with it.
As for now I have decided to drive it as is for now while I think things tru. Again remember I do not have the option of doing much myself due to lack of expertise, space, tools etc...so my decision has to lean more towards paying to get something fixed or driving as is until something does go bad and then spend the money and fix it....
Thanks!!
05-01-2012, 07:00 PM
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When was the last time you changed your oil? What weight did you use and what is the current level?
My advice for people who aren't too handy is to start off with the cheaper and small possibilities before ditching out the big bucks. Report back with the answers to my above questions and we can go from there.
My advice for people who aren't too handy is to start off with the cheaper and small possibilities before ditching out the big bucks. Report back with the answers to my above questions and we can go from there.
05-02-2012, 03:16 AM
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Thanks, last oil change was around 2 weeks before the CEL came on. CEL came on last week for the first time so it was around 3-4 weeks ago. Oil level is fine , it is not low.
It was dealer oil so I'm pretty certain they use 5w30.
I have noticed low pressure on the gauge for a while now probably a few months but it was not until now that the CEL came on and it definitely seems lower now, at idle its sitting close to 0 probably around 8-10 before it was low but not that low at idle, never had the oil lamp light come on though.
While driving today I kept my eyes glued to it and the needle stayed mostly around 30, a little below it, while going at 2.5-3k rpm.
CEL has not come back on today after it was cleared yesterday and I drive 36 miles to work but Im sure it'll come back on sooner or later
It was dealer oil so I'm pretty certain they use 5w30.
I have noticed low pressure on the gauge for a while now probably a few months but it was not until now that the CEL came on and it definitely seems lower now, at idle its sitting close to 0 probably around 8-10 before it was low but not that low at idle, never had the oil lamp light come on though.
While driving today I kept my eyes glued to it and the needle stayed mostly around 30, a little below it, while going at 2.5-3k rpm.
CEL has not come back on today after it was cleared yesterday and I drive 36 miles to work but Im sure it'll come back on sooner or later
05-02-2012, 08:39 AM
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Bad mechanics, did they hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and give you readings?
It's either real low oil pressure, bad sensor or wiring. They guessed on the sensor, $35 part, takes 5 min install, wasted your money and don't know what's really wrong. The $2000 is to get them enough money to throw at it till its ok or they realize you need a new engine and hit you up for more money.
It's either real low oil pressure, bad sensor or wiring. They guessed on the sensor, $35 part, takes 5 min install, wasted your money and don't know what's really wrong. The $2000 is to get them enough money to throw at it till its ok or they realize you need a new engine and hit you up for more money.
05-02-2012, 09:26 AM
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I am not sure they hooked up anything if they did they should have realized there was indeed low pressure and bypassed replacing the switch but I am not sure. I guess it would be foolish not to hook something other than whats already there.
The 2 grand was just for changing the sprockets and solenoids flagged on the CEL, if that would not fix things then going into the engine and having a fieldtrip was going to be more than 2k... that's why he said at that point i'd be almost better off with a new engine, but I don't have 7k to burn on one plus installation.
What do you guys think though of my options, is driving the car as is an option like the mechanic said, given the pressure readings I have?
Also I know powertrain warranty is 60k, my car has 67k any chance they'd make an exception? would this be covered under power train warranty?
The 2 grand was just for changing the sprockets and solenoids flagged on the CEL, if that would not fix things then going into the engine and having a fieldtrip was going to be more than 2k... that's why he said at that point i'd be almost better off with a new engine, but I don't have 7k to burn on one plus installation.
What do you guys think though of my options, is driving the car as is an option like the mechanic said, given the pressure readings I have?
Also I know powertrain warranty is 60k, my car has 67k any chance they'd make an exception? would this be covered under power train warranty?
Last edited by Louis21; 05-02-2012 at 10:12 AM.
05-02-2012, 03:13 PM
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They wont make an exception because they're evil money hungry stealerships.
If i were you i'd try this. Change the oil myself and put a new filter in. Go through all the relearn process. And like the mechanic said keep an eye on the oil pressure.
Wouldn't hurt but try a heavier weight oil, 10w-40.
If i were you i'd try this. Change the oil myself and put a new filter in. Go through all the relearn process. And like the mechanic said keep an eye on the oil pressure.
Wouldn't hurt but try a heavier weight oil, 10w-40.
05-03-2012, 03:53 AM
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Yeah I know the Dealer won't go for that, I am trying to see if Nissan North America will help me out somehow, I am still within 5 years of purchase but 7k over the 60k mark. I seriously cannot comprehend how can I be at a point of almost needing a new engine at only 67k when this car has been babied from day 1, I figured I'd get at least a good 120-150k miles out of it.
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05-04-2012, 11:51 PM
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Yeah I know the Dealer won't go for that, I am trying to see if Nissan North America will help me out somehow, I am still within 5 years of purchase but 7k over the 60k mark. I seriously cannot comprehend how can I be at a point of almost needing a new engine at only 67k when this car has been babied from day 1, I figured I'd get at least a good 120-150k miles out of it.
Drive the car and eye its performance, look up a highly trusted mechanic in your area and get a second opinion.
05-05-2012, 04:51 AM
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Thanks, yeah I know its far from being end of the world but still stings ya know how it is...
I was recommended a good shop form the Regional section here in the forums. Slammered Inc. (GreenGoblin's shop) is literally right behind my place so I was lucky in that sense.
They recommend for now to drop the oil pan and examine for any debris, also an oil analysis. So we scheduled that for next saturday.
I hope we get a better idea of anything going on in the engine this way without going in and opening it yet. Guess I'll go from there...
I am really hoping its just some blockage or something that can be corrected, I am literally just finishing paying the car off in June, it would suck to have something major happen and having to trade the car in or sell it.
Oh yeah and Nissan got back to me and pretty much told me 'screw you you're on your own', which I understand I guess, since yes technically I am out of warranty for 7k miles, but damn its not like I am at 100k asking for a warranty repair...some partial help would have been nice.
I was recommended a good shop form the Regional section here in the forums. Slammered Inc. (GreenGoblin's shop) is literally right behind my place so I was lucky in that sense.
They recommend for now to drop the oil pan and examine for any debris, also an oil analysis. So we scheduled that for next saturday.
I hope we get a better idea of anything going on in the engine this way without going in and opening it yet. Guess I'll go from there...
I am really hoping its just some blockage or something that can be corrected, I am literally just finishing paying the car off in June, it would suck to have something major happen and having to trade the car in or sell it.
Oh yeah and Nissan got back to me and pretty much told me 'screw you you're on your own', which I understand I guess, since yes technically I am out of warranty for 7k miles, but damn its not like I am at 100k asking for a warranty repair...some partial help would have been nice.
Last edited by Louis21; 05-05-2012 at 04:58 AM.
05-07-2012, 02:48 AM
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OK so today after my daily 36 mile drive to work (all highway) got to a stop sign and the oil light came on for a second. I immediately shut off the car and restarted by then the traffic light turned green and I was able to move on and got to work ok (no light). As I mentioned before at idle the pressure reads around 8ish. Now I'm scared to even get to a light.. oil level is fine, checked it as soon as i got to work.
05-07-2012, 05:08 AM
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OK so today after my daily 36 mile drive to work (all highway) got to a stop sign and the oil light came on for a second. I immediately shut off the car and restarted by then the traffic light turned green and I was able to move on and got to work ok (no light). As I mentioned before at idle the pressure reads around 8ish. Now I'm scared to even get to a light.. oil level is fine, checked it as soon as i got to work.
05-14-2012, 06:23 AM
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Sorry for no updates, things seem to have taken a turn for the worse after initially getting better..
To make things short, due to the oil light coming on i did not want to drive the car back home since it is a good 36 miles so I left it at my folks home for a few days, borrowed my brother's car to go to work crawled the z to the local dealer since its the closest shop to my folk's place.
Dealer looked at it agreed oil pressure was low. Obviously recommended i do not drive it back home and they said most likely the oil pump is bad.
Fast forward to Friday oil pump replaced, seems ok, take it home and today on the way to work, damn oil light is back on as soon as i hit idle at a light and pressure is back down, not as much as it was earlier but still, at Idle is about 12 ish but at 3k is probably about 38-40 when i understand should be close to 60ish?
So now oil pump replaced, pressure switch replaced, engine was looking very clean and no issues form what they could see when they opened it up last week.
Crawled car back to the dealer again as soon as light came up, now at dealer again by my folks...
At what point to i just give up and say screw it time to trade the car in?
Seems the whole prediction form the first dealer is coming true about throwing money into the engine and better off getting new engine. But to be honest I am not too crazy about that..used engine can have issues, and brand new engine is 7k plus install...
To make things short, due to the oil light coming on i did not want to drive the car back home since it is a good 36 miles so I left it at my folks home for a few days, borrowed my brother's car to go to work crawled the z to the local dealer since its the closest shop to my folk's place.
Dealer looked at it agreed oil pressure was low. Obviously recommended i do not drive it back home and they said most likely the oil pump is bad.
Fast forward to Friday oil pump replaced, seems ok, take it home and today on the way to work, damn oil light is back on as soon as i hit idle at a light and pressure is back down, not as much as it was earlier but still, at Idle is about 12 ish but at 3k is probably about 38-40 when i understand should be close to 60ish?
So now oil pump replaced, pressure switch replaced, engine was looking very clean and no issues form what they could see when they opened it up last week.
Crawled car back to the dealer again as soon as light came up, now at dealer again by my folks...
At what point to i just give up and say screw it time to trade the car in?
Seems the whole prediction form the first dealer is coming true about throwing money into the engine and better off getting new engine. But to be honest I am not too crazy about that..used engine can have issues, and brand new engine is 7k plus install...
05-14-2012, 08:27 AM
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The pressure was confirmed low with an external gauge by the dealer before the oil pump was replaced.
I just called them now and they have one hooked up, as well as a different Z close by and pressure seems to be ok on the external so far but reads a bit lower on the car gauge, this sensor was replaced recently though so no chance 2 sensors could fail so soon.
Would the oil light depend on the car gauge? This morning when it came on at idle the gauge was still reading around 13-15
I just called them now and they have one hooked up, as well as a different Z close by and pressure seems to be ok on the external so far but reads a bit lower on the car gauge, this sensor was replaced recently though so no chance 2 sensors could fail so soon.
Would the oil light depend on the car gauge? This morning when it came on at idle the gauge was still reading around 13-15
05-15-2012, 07:17 AM
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Well everyone seems stumped, no one can figure out why the pressure is low, dealer is opening a ticket with Nissan North America to see if they have any ideas or anything can be done....
05-15-2012, 07:23 AM
#18
Sorry, lost net connection last night as I replied.
I would be more concerned about the supposed replaced sesnsor. The sensor feeds the oil light and it has to be pretty fricken low to go off. The gauge is separate but uses the same sensor iirc.
Have you tried anything like seafoam? I'm wondering about block oil-ways, but that wouldn't neccessarily cause low pressure, depending on where the blockage was.
I would be more concerned about the supposed replaced sesnsor. The sensor feeds the oil light and it has to be pretty fricken low to go off. The gauge is separate but uses the same sensor iirc.
Have you tried anything like seafoam? I'm wondering about block oil-ways, but that wouldn't neccessarily cause low pressure, depending on where the blockage was.
05-15-2012, 07:55 AM
#20
When oil is fully up to temp, ~176F
Idle speed ----------- More than 14 PSI
2,000 RPM------------More than 43 PSI
Note 'more than's and also, the pressure sensor is real easy to see, it's right next to the oil filter.
Only info in the FSM is If difference is extreme, check oil passage and oil pump for oil leaks.
Are you using oil do you know?
Idle speed ----------- More than 14 PSI
2,000 RPM------------More than 43 PSI
Note 'more than's and also, the pressure sensor is real easy to see, it's right next to the oil filter.
Only info in the FSM is If difference is extreme, check oil passage and oil pump for oil leaks.
Are you using oil do you know?
Last edited by F2CMaDMaXX; 05-15-2012 at 07:56 AM.