Low oil Pressure issue, CEL on. Looking for opinions among dealer options
#21
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The oil pressure switch was replaced once at the beginning of the ordeal a few weeks ago and again recently for test purposes, they say the are going by the external pressure reader and the pressure is still low with that one.
I have not used Seafoam, to be honest I had never heard of it until now, but the dealer says the engine itself seems pristine I guess that's why they're stumped cos they can't really see anything that could be wrong with it.
As far as the blown gasket in the timing chain case, again I am not technical by far, but would this be something they would have seen when they took things apart to replace the pump?
As far as leaks, the oil level is fine never had issues with oil level....would a leak cause my oil level to go down I am guessing?
They are supposed to hear back form Nissan today or tomorrow....we'll see what happens.
I have not used Seafoam, to be honest I had never heard of it until now, but the dealer says the engine itself seems pristine I guess that's why they're stumped cos they can't really see anything that could be wrong with it.
As far as the blown gasket in the timing chain case, again I am not technical by far, but would this be something they would have seen when they took things apart to replace the pump?
As far as leaks, the oil level is fine never had issues with oil level....would a leak cause my oil level to go down I am guessing?
They are supposed to hear back form Nissan today or tomorrow....we'll see what happens.
#22
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Heres the oil diagram, an internal leak after the filter will cause low oil pressure but level on dipstick is normal
Last edited by Neimad; 05-15-2012 at 09:25 AM.
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When oil is fully up to temp, ~176F
Idle speed ----------- More than 14 PSI
2,000 RPM------------More than 43 PSI
Note 'more than's and also, the pressure sensor is real easy to see, it's right next to the oil filter.
Only info in the FSM is If difference is extreme, check oil passage and oil pump for oil leaks.
Are you using oil do you know?
Idle speed ----------- More than 14 PSI
2,000 RPM------------More than 43 PSI
Note 'more than's and also, the pressure sensor is real easy to see, it's right next to the oil filter.
Only info in the FSM is If difference is extreme, check oil passage and oil pump for oil leaks.
Are you using oil do you know?
If you've got a leak, or you're burning oil, your oil level will drop slowly.
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Thanks, no there's no oil consumption, oil level is constant from what I have seen (and the dealer). Nevertheless the oil has been changed at least 4 times in the last 3 weeks, tried different weights, but same result. I would guess that if there was a leak the oil level would drop like you mentioned but right after an oil change pressure should be decent and eventually get lower? but seems pressure is low regardless
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Thanks for this and your last post. Nissan is leaning towards a gasket by the timing chain being the culprit so sounds like the one you suggested on your last post....here we go with another expense, hopefully this will be it.
#30
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bump.. I have the same issue. Low oil pressure when idling and CEL intermittently comes on and off for the same codes last several months. She drives fine as far as I can tell, dealer couldn't really figure out what is wrong but suggested an oil analysis. Oil pressure light turns on once in a blue moon. hr 58k miles.
#32
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oil pressure issues
the answer is easy and complicated at the same time...
First, the oil pump creates flow... resistance creates pressure, Now for the resistance side of it (assuming there is no pressure system leaks):
viscosity of oil: (example 5W-30) two parts... 5W means cold weight or "winter weight" (the oils viscosity at 0*C or 32*F) so a 5W is the same as 5 straight weight (if you could find any) at freezing temp of water
The second number is hot weight (100*C) 30 weight blah blah blah you get the idea
So a thicker weight will offer more reistance to flow in the same size orifice (ever wonder why high mileage oil is so thick? orifices get bigger as engines wear)
Now that the science is out of the way...
In every engine that I know of that utilizes pistons, the oil pump directly feeds the main bearings main clearance that causes the oil pressure reading...
now on the mighty VQ speificly the HR the oil route is this
1. pickup tube
2. bedplate (sealed with O-rings)
3. oil pump
4. bed plate
5. oil filter housing in oil pan
6. back into bed plate
7. into the block (still not to the main bearings)
8. rear timing cover <---- paper gaskets for pressure galleies
9. back into the block to the main bearings
I have replaced possibly hundreds of rear timing covers for blown out pressure galley gaskets (the HR the gasket is available seperately)
CEL is probably for intake valve timing, low oil pressure will cause hydraulic actuated systems to work erraticly
So, try thicker oil, and if that doesn't fix it then your oil galley gasket is probably blown, and if it rattles when cold your main bearings are toast and you need a new one or a build
First, the oil pump creates flow... resistance creates pressure, Now for the resistance side of it (assuming there is no pressure system leaks):
viscosity of oil: (example 5W-30) two parts... 5W means cold weight or "winter weight" (the oils viscosity at 0*C or 32*F) so a 5W is the same as 5 straight weight (if you could find any) at freezing temp of water
The second number is hot weight (100*C) 30 weight blah blah blah you get the idea
So a thicker weight will offer more reistance to flow in the same size orifice (ever wonder why high mileage oil is so thick? orifices get bigger as engines wear)
Now that the science is out of the way...
In every engine that I know of that utilizes pistons, the oil pump directly feeds the main bearings main clearance that causes the oil pressure reading...
now on the mighty VQ speificly the HR the oil route is this
1. pickup tube
2. bedplate (sealed with O-rings)
3. oil pump
4. bed plate
5. oil filter housing in oil pan
6. back into bed plate
7. into the block (still not to the main bearings)
8. rear timing cover <---- paper gaskets for pressure galleies
9. back into the block to the main bearings
I have replaced possibly hundreds of rear timing covers for blown out pressure galley gaskets (the HR the gasket is available seperately)
CEL is probably for intake valve timing, low oil pressure will cause hydraulic actuated systems to work erraticly
So, try thicker oil, and if that doesn't fix it then your oil galley gasket is probably blown, and if it rattles when cold your main bearings are toast and you need a new one or a build
#34
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just an update, I switched to 10w-40 (pennzoil high mileage) a couple weeks ago and cleared the p011 and p021 codes. Oil pressure is now in normal range and I haven't seen the oil pressure light come on since. My SES light hasn't come back on either and I've red lined the Z a couple of times also. It seems like this might be a remedy for now. Other than the terrible gas mileage (18-20mpg combined), everything seems fine.
#36
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For those who are having this issue lately, just wanted to come back and chime in that the gasket in the picture WAS the issue for me. My issue was resolved after replacing it. After spending around $3,000 and the car being down for about 2 weeks between failed repairs/diagnostics this finally fixed it. Hope no one has to go tru this back and forth trial and error crap with this. Up to this day, more than a year later I'm still looking at my oil pressure gauge every time I drive, more than my speedometer, fearing the pressure will dip which was how it all started...so far so good a year later. Cheers.
#40
Bump for gallery gaskets?
Any links for the upgraded versions of the gallery gaskets? Also is it rare but srill happen to the DE engines? Read lots of these forms mostly for the HR engines but mine sounds like it having the same issues. Low pressure on idle. Chsmged oil and sensor and oil wieght still nothing. Keeps dropping
Thank you guys!
Thank you guys!
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