Failed Catalytic Converter
#21
Exhaust Whore
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please do NOT do any work at the dealership unless its warrant and FREE!!!! I feel really bad for people that get the shaft. Granite its a business and i know there has to be profit but most of the techs working at dealerships are fcking IDIOTS!!! find you a local speed shop tuner etc for install. Def not hard at ALL! as posted check your local region for HFCs or oem cats. I sold mine for 50$ they had maybe 6k miles on them
#23
New Member
Thread Starter
#25
New Member
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1. $160 dollars to diagnose a CEL is robbery...
2. That code only means the catalyst has a low oxygen threshold. The cat will only damage the engine if it is breaking up. Other than that, you will only fail for emissions.
3. Knowing what a code is and actually diagnosing it are two different things...
2. That code only means the catalyst has a low oxygen threshold. The cat will only damage the engine if it is breaking up. Other than that, you will only fail for emissions.
3. Knowing what a code is and actually diagnosing it are two different things...
#28
Registered User
iTrader: (48)
wow talk about a huge rip off. I got a OBDII bluetooth adapter off of Aamazon for $20. Then got a free app on my phone so i can check the code ANYTIME a CEL come up for my HFC and clear it out right away if need to be. I can also monitor other things like intake air temp, oil temp, tranny oil temp, etc...
#29
wow talk about a huge rip off. I got a OBDII bluetooth adapter off of Aamazon for $20. Then got a free app on my phone so i can check the code ANYTIME a CEL come up for my HFC and clear it out right away if need to be. I can also monitor other things like intake air temp, oil temp, tranny oil temp, etc...
#30
Registered User
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http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340239852&sr=8-1&keywords=odbii+bluetooth+adapter
The app on my android phone is "Torque". You can search it on the Market. You dont even need to use the CD that came with it. All cellphone these days got bluetooth. The PIN code to pair it to your phone is 6789.
Last edited by *ICE*; 06-20-2012 at 04:53 PM.
#32
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Don't ever pay to have a dealer or shop "pull the codes". You don;t even need a reader....just use the reset procedure and the blinking check engine light will tell you.
step by step (#3 explains the code part)
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds**, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.*
*at this point you need to count the CEL light flashes, think it starts by flashes 10 times slowly to indicate it is beginning then faster for the code. For example if it flashes 10 times slowly, 3 times fast, 2 times fast, 5 times fast 10 times slow then the code would be 325, then just match to the code list.
**The 7 seconds starts from the end of the 5 seconds period above it does NOT start from the 5th release of the accelerator pedal.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink but at a a faster rate).
8. Turn ignition switch to ?OFF? position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
step by step (#3 explains the code part)
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds**, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.*
*at this point you need to count the CEL light flashes, think it starts by flashes 10 times slowly to indicate it is beginning then faster for the code. For example if it flashes 10 times slowly, 3 times fast, 2 times fast, 5 times fast 10 times slow then the code would be 325, then just match to the code list.
**The 7 seconds starts from the end of the 5 seconds period above it does NOT start from the 5th release of the accelerator pedal.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink but at a a faster rate).
8. Turn ignition switch to ?OFF? position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Last edited by Lee R; 06-20-2012 at 07:10 PM.
#33
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HFC's and test pipes are not legal in CA where OP is from. You should have posted all this on your other thread. I thought there was a law that you can only buy a cat from an "approved seller".
#36
New Member
Thread Starter
Thank you Waizzz for combining these threads. And thank you for being patient with me, I am such a novice.
I've been doing some research about HFC's and test pipes
https://my350z.com/forum/2820862-post26.html
If I have a broken stock cat on bank1 right now, can I just replace my test pipes or does that not encompass the catalytic converter.
Is my only available option to replace my cat or can i replace my test pipes?
I've been doing some research about HFC's and test pipes
https://my350z.com/forum/2820862-post26.html
If I have a broken stock cat on bank1 right now, can I just replace my test pipes or does that not encompass the catalytic converter.
Is my only available option to replace my cat or can i replace my test pipes?
#37
New Member
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I would get ART pipes and call it a day. Either way, labor is going to be an expensive part of the process whether you are swapping for OEM or aftermarket. Might as well go aftermarket if you planning on keeping the car for a while. You can also get exhausts while you are at it and get the UpRev tune. And as SDGenius said above, CA will get rid of sniffers for smog testing next year, so you'll pass emissions easy as the UpRev tuner can disable your codes/sensors or w/e.
#39
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Is there a difference between 03-06 cats and 07-08 cats? If they are the same, I might be able to help you out. I work for an exhaust distributor, we carry Walker Exhaust and they list replacement converters for the 03-06 350z, I don't know if they're different for an 07-08 though. PM me if they are the same and I'll hook you up.
#40
Registered User
You are confused about what test pipes and cats are
these are Catalytic converters
These are test pipes, they replace your Catalytic Converter with a Straight pipe that is less restrictive and allows more air flow
If you live in California and must go through a smog test you will fail with test pipes because they are for off road use not for daily driving. so you must put on high flow cats or replace with OEM Cats
these are Catalytic converters
These are test pipes, they replace your Catalytic Converter with a Straight pipe that is less restrictive and allows more air flow
If you live in California and must go through a smog test you will fail with test pipes because they are for off road use not for daily driving. so you must put on high flow cats or replace with OEM Cats
Last edited by realist alive; 06-22-2012 at 02:10 PM.