Checked the harness and got power. The relays by the battery are intact, and judging from the harness having power at its end, I would say they are fine. I was only reading 11.6 Volts which is exactly what my battery was putting out. I think the battery may be dying from the lack of being recharged between attempted starts. I reset the harness on both BCM and the ECM and no bueno, but did it for good measure. Nissan is getting a crack at it tomorrow and God willing they will have parts or can overnight them so I can get back on the road. I have 1200 miles to go! Lol. Luckily I have money to cover the hotel stay and parts this time though so at least I dont have to stress that. I am expecting somewhere in the neighborhood of 1200 bucks for parts and maybe an hour or two of labor plus their troubleshooting costs which seem to average about 75 bucks. Does the ECM have to be programmed? What about my keys? I have some that I just got recut and programmed to the car so that would suck if they stopped working because of an ECM swap. Also I read a TSB saying Nissan upgrades all vehicles to OBDIII when an ECM is required to be changed, any word on if this is true? I want to say it was sometime around 2011 4th quarter when this posted.

Also, for anyone wondering how to get to the ECM I found this nifty how to guide,

http://www.technosquareinc.com/350ZECUremoval.htm

Thanks for the help guys, looks like we got our culprit, just gotta find out why it died. I took out the remote starter, but based on the way it was wired, from an electrical stand point, it shouldnt have caused any issue, except if there is a problem with getting power off the coil pack. I thought that was a bit odd but apparently that is the way they wire these things at the shop that did it.

 

So Nissan found a blown fuse, replaced it and got it going. IPDM is the fuse they said they replaced. I don't know which that was but they said they would show it to me. They were saying I had some codes for ABS and TCS but I have never had any issues with that previously, but I am having it checked out to be safe. Saving this for future reference and perhaps someone else can use the information as well. Looks like I will be on the road again tomorrow!

 

Damn, we were so close. It's really easy to tap power at a fuse box and put a fuse in a blank fuse hole and make it look clean and OEM. Run away from anyone too lazy to do that.

 

I had to check that thing several times when I had an issue with my harness and ECU. Until that happened, I had no idea that it had inline fuses right there at the positive battery post for the ECU.

It sounds like they're getting you squared away now. Good luck!

 

Yea, never had a problem with them before. They are actually replacing the ABS computer now, I guess whatever surged the car also fried the ABS computer, once they got that fuse in there it blew again. My aftermarket warranty is covering everything and even got me a rental and they are paying for my hotel while I am stuck. I thought the warranty company sucked but they just paid for themselves. I have the Nissan guys here in SLC checking the wiring on the remote starter and if they think it is causing an issue I told them to disconnect the wires, they are all quick disconnects. I have a friend back home who does this stuff and I will have him look it over to make sure it is installed right.

BTW the dealer is Ken Garth (or maybe Garff) in SLC, Utah. Usually I hate dealerships but these guys have been amazing all the way. Even gave me a rental right from their lot, a Nissan Murano, which is ****ing awesome as far as crossover cars go. Super comfy. Hopefully this new ABS computer and new fuse again will fix it up right.

 

Update to the Update: They found out that there is nothing wrong with my remote start, it turns out when I bought my car, the cold air intake that was installed on it was done wrong. The wires on the MAF were tucked for looks and rubbing against the engine bay, eventually they chaffed and started shorting out and eventually those stray voltages started blowing the fuses on the IPDM circuit. Problem being, the MAF was still getting powered, and the car was running a steady 11.6 volts around the whole frame, which shorted out and blew the the ABS and ECU computers, and possibly could explain how I was able to pick up power on the ECU harness (from the frame where I was grounding the lead to, not the wire on the harness? Maybe?)

The guys repaired the MAF wires and got it installed correctly so it wont happen again, they have a new ECU and ABS computer installed and are working to get them to program. The only problem is they wont talk to each other and they are trying to figure out why. Hopefully they will get it to work out later today before it costs me tons of money on troubleshooting.


EDIT: Turns out when they installed the remote starter they pulled out the ABS control computer and when they put it back in they bent some pins, when they straightened out the pins on the harness the computers synced up and everything works right now. Still kind of worried it might screw me over but seems to be working fine now.