Master clutch or Slave cylinder??
from what I can find they seem to have the same symptoms. are there any other tell tale signs that would differentiate one from the other problems? on warm days after a little bit of stop and go traffic the clutch pedal will have about 2 inches of no resistance then feel like it engages. it doesn't happen everyday or every time I drive, and still shifts into gears fine. it's just the clutch pedal has no resistance for about 2 inches or so sometimes. the resvoir is good with new clutch fluid. I'm thinking it's the master clutch; so Im thinking of just going with the upgraded wilwood with the SS lines. but id just like to know if it may just be the slave cylinder (which would be a cheaper fix). thanks for any helpful input guys
I had my pedal go limp one morning, and everyone said swapping in new clutch fluid along with a SS line should help. Just did that this weekend. The clutch feels basically the same as before, so maybe it won't go dead like it did that one time.
Anyway, I was reading around on clutch components, and the consensus was that the master cylinder is a lot crappier than the slave, so most agreed you should change that first. Sucky thing is, the M/C is a much longer job than the slave, but oh well.
Anyway, I was reading around on clutch components, and the consensus was that the master cylinder is a lot crappier than the slave, so most agreed you should change that first. Sucky thing is, the M/C is a much longer job than the slave, but oh well.
yeah i had the same thing happen in my last car (s2k) and had the dealership do it for 500$! so I think I'll just buy the wilwood for 160$ that comes with the SS clutch lines too, and save by just doing it myself
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Colombo
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Nov 9, 2020 10:27 AM




