dcains

iTrader: (15)

Installed a new Mishimoto oil drain valve in my '08 5K miles ago - now I'm changing the oil and see that the valve has had a slow leak. It's not huge, probably didn't lose much over the 5K, but I've got one of those metal undertrays, and it's got a nice even coating of oil on its rear half. The only thing wet in the engine bay is the end of the valve, and when I pulled off the vinyl cap it was full of oil. Is this typical of the Mishimoto drain? FWIW, the thing also drains pretty slowly, taking about 30 minutes to fully drain the hot Mobil 1 10w/30. I don't know, I guess I expected a little better than what I got.

EDIT, EDIT, EDIT - meant to say Fumoto drain. Very sorry.

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I don't have one on, but 30 min to drain is crazy. Plus with the leak? I would go back to stock. What's the big deal? Having said that....I lot of people like to change their oil..I'm not one of em. Why? It's a mess/hastle and most importantly..ya gotta dispose of the oil. Been there ..done that.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

The oil drains much more slowly because the orifice of the valve is smaller, but the plus side is the valve accepts a hose, and the oil can be drained into a container without spilling a drop. Next time I buy oil I just exchange the old container of used Mobil 1 for a new one. My main disappointment is the leakage, which doesn't amount to anything significant, but it does make a bit of a mess.

Mishimoto

What product are you speaking of? Perhaps I can lend a hand.
I think you may have our company mixed up with another.

Thanks

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Damn, is my face red? I am confused, and the drain valve is in fact made by Fumoto -

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Pr...ductCode=F103N

I apologize for the confusion. Not sure if I can go back and edit the title of this thread, but I'll try.

Mishimoto

I had kind of assumed this was the mix up. No trouble at all.

On topic that seems way too long to drain, perhaps there is an issue internally with the valve which is causing both of your concerns? Do they have any kind of warranty?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

The longer drain time is because the orifice is smaller than the threaded opening on the oil pan. It's a simple ball valve, and I can easily see through it to know it's not blocked. The real issue is that it weeps when the valve is closed, I guess because it's just a steel ball inside the brass housing, and for the tolerances to be loose enough to allow the valve to operate, some leakage will result. Their cutaway drawing appears to show two internal seals, maybe nylon or teflon.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

I was curious to know the results others have had because in one part of their description Fumoto states "a perfect seal when closed", and in another they say "double sealed to prevent leakage".

Waiz

iTrader: (57)

Thread retitled to avoid any confusion

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I found this..so you're not the only one.

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/ma...ain-valve.html

Prolly defective. Just replace it..I'm sure they'll do so NC when you return the original.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Thanks very much.

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I just found another...not so positive

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...84&postcount=2

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the link. I'll send an email to the vendor and see of they'll front me a replacement. I just changed the oil a few days ago, and I'm not going to waste $40 worth of brand new Mobil 1 for just a little seepage. Mine is leaking through the valve, though, not the lever mechanism, at least as far as I can tell. Other bad news is I bought one for my wife's '08 Acura TL-S, too, and it won't screw into the pan because of a small protrusion near the pan drain site. I'll see if I can return that one.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

That one sounds like user-error. Overtightened the device, confirmed by the fact that it leaked even more when it was tightened further. Probably squeezed the gasket out between the valve and the pan. I also own several Alfa Romeo's, and the same thing happens when newbies overtighten the nuts on the cam cover.

From what I've read, starting with threads here, which prompted me to buy the valve, the majority of experiences have been positive. Seems like such a good idea, I'd like to see it work out.

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I think I still have a brand new Fumoto valve that I was going to put on my 97 6 Cyl Camry, which was sold 4 yrs ago. If you can confirm it fits the Z, then I'll give you mine FREE..just charge $6 shipping UPS (I have my own UPS acct).

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Fumoto site says it's an F103, which fits Nissand and Toyota, so I'll accept your generous offer. PM me your PayPal (or other method) and I'll send the $ your way. Thanks.

Dan Garcia

iTrader: (71)

some of the valves require an adapter which extends it out a bit to clear the oil pan, I have one installed, it leaked a few drops, not many so I just put a plastic cap on the nipple and called it good. check out their web site, they do advertice the need for the adapter which is more of a collar/ extension than anything else. It does drain slow because of the size but shouldn't discourage you from using it, just find some thing else to do while it drains or take a break.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

I'll check into that adapter - thanks.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Have one on my Jeep, no problems.

350Zenophile

iTrader: (20)

I've had one on my Z since 2004 and it works great - no leaks and does not take 30 mins to drain. Few questions: Did you use a new crush washer when you installed? Do you remove the fill oil cap before you open the valve?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Yes, to both. Not a crush washer, though, as Fumoto sent a fiber-type washer to use. It's definitely weeping oil through the valve, not the lock mechanism or the threads into the oil pan. When I took the rubber cap off, it was full of oil. I've got another valve on the way, so we'll see how that one goes. It's not a large leak, but it is big enough to make a mess of the undertray over the course opf 5K miles.