Master Clutch cylinder pictures
03-15-2013, 07:47 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Miami - FL
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Master Clutch cylinder pictures
About 4 months ago I started having an issue with my clutch pedal getting stuck when warm. It would get worse if stuck in traffic.
I would depress the clutch pedal and when releasing it would not go all the way back out, it would get stuck about 2 inches from fully disengaging, to the point that sometimes I would have to tap it with my foot the rest of the way.
So after reading multiple threads and posts I came to the conclusion that the problem was the master cylinder and/or the slave cylinder. I found out you could either replace them or rebuild them. I decided to start with the master cylinder and see if that fixed the problem and if not continue to the slave cylinder.
I could not find pictures or a write up on how to rebuild it so I bought one (about $100); it was a pretty easy installation. I took some pictures of my old master cylinder taken apart in case someone would like to see how it looks for a rebuild. In my opinion after taking the master cylinder apart and trying to put it back together to see how easy it would be to reassemble I could not, may be with the right tools it would be easier.
Some notes of the installation: after taking changing the master cylinder the system has to be fully bled (I have read some people having issues with this after changing). When I changed the master cylinder and tried to start bleeding the clutch was stuck to the floor, and no liquid would go through the system. What worked for me was to open the bleeder valve and leaving it open while the other person helping would move the clutch in and out (as it would not disengage on its own due to air in the system) a bunch of times until you get fluid out (use a bleeder kit, to collect the fluid). At that point the clutch will start operating as normal engaging and disengaging, and you can continue to bleed as normal. Remember to continue filling up the reservoir.
My clutch went back to its normal operation after replacing the master cylinder I did not have to touch the salve cylinder at all. May be I will have to in the future but not for now.
Old master cylinder
The ring that holds the parts together (the metal part to the plastic part - sorry about my technical terms lol)
How it looks when you take the "plastic part out" notice how dirty this looks, and the reason why I got the issue.
New Master Cylnder
Comparison between the old (unassembled and the new)
Dirty
The old ring, if you look closely you can see the same ring on the new master cylinder.
Fluid comparison, 90,000 mile fluid on the right, new fuild on the left. reason for the problem
I would depress the clutch pedal and when releasing it would not go all the way back out, it would get stuck about 2 inches from fully disengaging, to the point that sometimes I would have to tap it with my foot the rest of the way.
So after reading multiple threads and posts I came to the conclusion that the problem was the master cylinder and/or the slave cylinder. I found out you could either replace them or rebuild them. I decided to start with the master cylinder and see if that fixed the problem and if not continue to the slave cylinder.
I could not find pictures or a write up on how to rebuild it so I bought one (about $100); it was a pretty easy installation. I took some pictures of my old master cylinder taken apart in case someone would like to see how it looks for a rebuild. In my opinion after taking the master cylinder apart and trying to put it back together to see how easy it would be to reassemble I could not, may be with the right tools it would be easier.
Some notes of the installation: after taking changing the master cylinder the system has to be fully bled (I have read some people having issues with this after changing). When I changed the master cylinder and tried to start bleeding the clutch was stuck to the floor, and no liquid would go through the system. What worked for me was to open the bleeder valve and leaving it open while the other person helping would move the clutch in and out (as it would not disengage on its own due to air in the system) a bunch of times until you get fluid out (use a bleeder kit, to collect the fluid). At that point the clutch will start operating as normal engaging and disengaging, and you can continue to bleed as normal. Remember to continue filling up the reservoir.
My clutch went back to its normal operation after replacing the master cylinder I did not have to touch the salve cylinder at all. May be I will have to in the future but not for now.
Old master cylinder
The ring that holds the parts together (the metal part to the plastic part - sorry about my technical terms lol)
How it looks when you take the "plastic part out" notice how dirty this looks, and the reason why I got the issue.
New Master Cylnder
Comparison between the old (unassembled and the new)
Dirty
The old ring, if you look closely you can see the same ring on the new master cylinder.
Fluid comparison, 90,000 mile fluid on the right, new fuild on the left. reason for the problem
