350Z Oil Change
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Clearwater, Florida
350Z Oil Change
I'm not a good technical writer but anyone with a digital camera and a computer can pretend these days so here is my interpretation of the 350Z oil change process. I'm sure there are errors and omissions so point them out and I'll fix whatever is wrong.
Thanks,
MWeber
What you'll need:
5 quarts motor oil of your choice (I use Castrol Syntec 5W50)
1 oil filter of choice (I use stock Nissan filters)
1 copper oil drain plug washer
Oil filter wrench
14mm box wrench or socket (for drain plug)
10mm socket (box wrench works if you want to spend an extra
30 minutes removing and reinstalling the plastic under engine bay cover).
floor jack and jack stands, ramps or some other means to lift the vehicle.
The car should run until normal operating temperature is
achieved before changing the oil. Not sure why. I think
it is so the mechanic can obtain the worst possible burns
on his or her hands while removing the drain plug and the
filter. In any case, having done this, I use a floor jack which
doesn't quite fit under the car so I drive it up on a couple of
2X4's as shown. If you are using ramps then disregard the
next few frames.
Slide the floor jack under the vehicle and lift as shown.
The front lift point is behind the motor on the crossmember
as shown.
Here's another view.
]
If I am just changing the oil, I don't normally use jack stands
but in this case I was doing some other work so I did. Safety
would dictate that you use them any time you are working under
the car (again assuming that you are not using ramps). I placed
mine on either side of the front suspension crossmember as
shown. Note that my jack stands are not in the factory
recommended locations. I don't have the proper pads to
prevent my rocker panel area from being damaged by the
stands placed in those locations.
Next you'll need to remove the under engine bay cover. Note
that it had already been removed in the previous 2 frames.
It is attached with 14 10mm bolts and 1 plastic push clip
(My platic clip mysteriously disappeared after the second oil
change).
Here is the cover once removed from the vehicle.
Having removed the cover, you are now ready to open
up the drain plug and remove the filter. I use a 14mm
socket and a strap wrench respectively. I am assuming at
this point that you have a suitable container to drain the oil
into. Please dispose of waste oil properly. Many auto stores
will take waste oil at no charge.
Here's a shot with the drain plug and the filter removed.
Make sure the motor has completely drained and
clean up the oil filter attachment flange, which is actually
an oil cooler, and the oil pan around the area of drain plug
before installing either.
Make sure you replace the copper washer on the oil drain plug
before reinstalling. It is made to completely collapse upon
installation and may leak if reused.
I like to partially fill the new filter with oil before installing.
I suppose the oil pump gets less of a gulp of air upon initial
start-up but I doubt that it makes a difference. In this case the
oil filter is mounted horizontally so don't fill it up more than half way.
Always lubricate the oil filter gasket with fresh motor oil
before installing.
Reinstall the filter and the drain plug. Turn the filter until it
makes contact with the flange and then turn it, by hand, an
additional 3/4 turns. Don't over tighten either the filter or the
drain bolt. It should look like this. If it doesn't, have another
beer and go back to step one.
Now refill the crankcase with 5 quarts of fresh motor oil (less
whatever you initially poured into the filter if any).
You can now run the motor a bit to pump that oil all the way
through. If you have the front end jacked up much higher than
the rear, you may want to wait until its down off the jackstands
before checking the oil level. Do check for any leaks before you
replace the engine bay cover. Assuming you have no leaks,
reattach the cover.
Now do whatever you did to get your vehicle up on the jack
stands, ramps, etc. in reverse order. In my case that meant
jacking it back up with the floor jack, removing the jack stands
and reinserting the 2X4's under the wheels. Otherwise I would
not be able to get my floor jack back out from under the car.
Allow enough time after having run the motor for all of the oil
to drain back into the crankcase before making a final oil level
check. Good luck with that exclusive Nissan excuse for a dip stick.
My final reading is never more than half way between the
marks even though I add a full 5 quarts. The manual does say
"approximately".
Thanks,
MWeber
What you'll need:
5 quarts motor oil of your choice (I use Castrol Syntec 5W50)
1 oil filter of choice (I use stock Nissan filters)
1 copper oil drain plug washer
Oil filter wrench
14mm box wrench or socket (for drain plug)
10mm socket (box wrench works if you want to spend an extra
30 minutes removing and reinstalling the plastic under engine bay cover).
floor jack and jack stands, ramps or some other means to lift the vehicle.
The car should run until normal operating temperature is
achieved before changing the oil. Not sure why. I think
it is so the mechanic can obtain the worst possible burns
on his or her hands while removing the drain plug and the
filter. In any case, having done this, I use a floor jack which
doesn't quite fit under the car so I drive it up on a couple of
2X4's as shown. If you are using ramps then disregard the
next few frames.
Slide the floor jack under the vehicle and lift as shown.
The front lift point is behind the motor on the crossmember
as shown.
Here's another view.
]
If I am just changing the oil, I don't normally use jack stands
but in this case I was doing some other work so I did. Safety
would dictate that you use them any time you are working under
the car (again assuming that you are not using ramps). I placed
mine on either side of the front suspension crossmember as
shown. Note that my jack stands are not in the factory
recommended locations. I don't have the proper pads to
prevent my rocker panel area from being damaged by the
stands placed in those locations.
Next you'll need to remove the under engine bay cover. Note
that it had already been removed in the previous 2 frames.
It is attached with 14 10mm bolts and 1 plastic push clip
(My platic clip mysteriously disappeared after the second oil
change).
Here is the cover once removed from the vehicle.
Having removed the cover, you are now ready to open
up the drain plug and remove the filter. I use a 14mm
socket and a strap wrench respectively. I am assuming at
this point that you have a suitable container to drain the oil
into. Please dispose of waste oil properly. Many auto stores
will take waste oil at no charge.
Here's a shot with the drain plug and the filter removed.
Make sure the motor has completely drained and
clean up the oil filter attachment flange, which is actually
an oil cooler, and the oil pan around the area of drain plug
before installing either.
Make sure you replace the copper washer on the oil drain plug
before reinstalling. It is made to completely collapse upon
installation and may leak if reused.
I like to partially fill the new filter with oil before installing.
I suppose the oil pump gets less of a gulp of air upon initial
start-up but I doubt that it makes a difference. In this case the
oil filter is mounted horizontally so don't fill it up more than half way.
Always lubricate the oil filter gasket with fresh motor oil
before installing.
Reinstall the filter and the drain plug. Turn the filter until it
makes contact with the flange and then turn it, by hand, an
additional 3/4 turns. Don't over tighten either the filter or the
drain bolt. It should look like this. If it doesn't, have another
beer and go back to step one.
Now refill the crankcase with 5 quarts of fresh motor oil (less
whatever you initially poured into the filter if any).
You can now run the motor a bit to pump that oil all the way
through. If you have the front end jacked up much higher than
the rear, you may want to wait until its down off the jackstands
before checking the oil level. Do check for any leaks before you
replace the engine bay cover. Assuming you have no leaks,
reattach the cover.
Now do whatever you did to get your vehicle up on the jack
stands, ramps, etc. in reverse order. In my case that meant
jacking it back up with the floor jack, removing the jack stands
and reinserting the 2X4's under the wheels. Otherwise I would
not be able to get my floor jack back out from under the car.
Allow enough time after having run the motor for all of the oil
to drain back into the crankcase before making a final oil level
check. Good luck with that exclusive Nissan excuse for a dip stick.
My final reading is never more than half way between the
marks even though I add a full 5 quarts. The manual does say
"approximately".
Last edited by overZealous; Jan 30, 2004 at 07:06 PM.
Great Post. Now here is my dilemma, maybe you can help me out.
I did my first oil change and did not know you had to take the damn plastic cover off to get the filter off. Well needless to say, I poked a hole in the oil filter with a screwdriver to get it off. Took me about an hour to finally get the OEM filter off. Anyway the rings that the filter screws onto, well I chipped one of those when I tapped my screwdriver in to get the oil filter off.
My question, is, do I need to replace the rings that the filter goes into, or leave it alone. The new filter fit fine and I have no oil leakage.
Any helpful info will be helpful, thanks
Heres the pic I was talking about
I did my first oil change and did not know you had to take the damn plastic cover off to get the filter off. Well needless to say, I poked a hole in the oil filter with a screwdriver to get it off. Took me about an hour to finally get the OEM filter off. Anyway the rings that the filter screws onto, well I chipped one of those when I tapped my screwdriver in to get the oil filter off.
My question, is, do I need to replace the rings that the filter goes into, or leave it alone. The new filter fit fine and I have no oil leakage.
Any helpful info will be helpful, thanks
Heres the pic I was talking about
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Clearwater, Florida
Originally posted by zand02max
Great Post. Now here is my dilemma, maybe you can help me out.
I did my first oil change and did not know you had to take the damn plastic cover off to get the filter off. Well needless to say, I poked a hole in the oil filter with a screwdriver to get it off. Took me about an hour to finally get the OEM filter off. Anyway the rings that the filter screws onto, well I chipped one of those when I tapped my screwdriver in to get the oil filter off.
My question, is, do I need to replace the rings that the filter goes into, or leave it alone. The new filter fit fine and I have no oil leakage.
Any helpful info will be helpful, thanks
Heres the pic I was talking about
Great Post. Now here is my dilemma, maybe you can help me out.
I did my first oil change and did not know you had to take the damn plastic cover off to get the filter off. Well needless to say, I poked a hole in the oil filter with a screwdriver to get it off. Took me about an hour to finally get the OEM filter off. Anyway the rings that the filter screws onto, well I chipped one of those when I tapped my screwdriver in to get the oil filter off.
My question, is, do I need to replace the rings that the filter goes into, or leave it alone. The new filter fit fine and I have no oil leakage.
Any helpful info will be helpful, thanks
Heres the pic I was talking about
The only thing the screwdriver did, is chip a piece of the ring, it did not go through the entire assembly.
I just don't want any metal shavings in my engine, and I am wondering if I can just replace the oil filter ring? I am only missing a small piece of the ring, you can barely see a piece was chipped.
I just don't want any metal shavings in my engine, and I am wondering if I can just replace the oil filter ring? I am only missing a small piece of the ring, you can barely see a piece was chipped.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Clearwater, Florida
Originally posted by zand02max
Heres the pic with the arrows
Also, should I change my plug or just the washer each time I do an oil change?
Heres the pic with the arrows
Also, should I change my plug or just the washer each time I do an oil change?
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Yeah, I hate that screwdriver method, but it was the only way to pry the SUPERGLUED OEM filter off. 
Yes I have a filter wrench, but since I din't know about the plastic cover, I am sure the filter tool will work now.
Yes I have a filter wrench, but since I din't know about the plastic cover, I am sure the filter tool will work now.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Montpelier, VT
If you take out all the bolts and leave the plastic pushclip in place, you can actually pivot the lower engine bay shield out of the way. This makes the process fairly easy, as you just pivot it back and it is already in position for reinstalling the bolts.
Actually, if you switch to a filter like a K&N, which has a 1" socket mount on the end of the filter, you can drop out about 3 bolts, bend the cover down slightly and change the filter.
Actually, if you switch to a filter like a K&N, which has a 1" socket mount on the end of the filter, you can drop out about 3 bolts, bend the cover down slightly and change the filter.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by zand02max
[B]Yeah, I hate that screwdriver method, but it was the only way to pry the SUPERGLUED OEM filter off.
OEM Filters are almost always impossible to remove when it is the car's FIRST oil change. I have crushed many with jsut about every tool made to remove oil filters. Just be thankful you don't have the old 80's Nissan Maxima.....I still have scars from those cars. I dreaded them in the summer!!! I would not recommend the screwdriver method because filter often tears and then you're stuck with the base of a filter superglued to the engine! Never done it, but I've heard horror stories. I think that the band wrenches work the best....make sure that you get the band close to the base to maximize grip, however.
[B]Yeah, I hate that screwdriver method, but it was the only way to pry the SUPERGLUED OEM filter off.
OEM Filters are almost always impossible to remove when it is the car's FIRST oil change. I have crushed many with jsut about every tool made to remove oil filters. Just be thankful you don't have the old 80's Nissan Maxima.....I still have scars from those cars. I dreaded them in the summer!!! I would not recommend the screwdriver method because filter often tears and then you're stuck with the base of a filter superglued to the engine! Never done it, but I've heard horror stories. I think that the band wrenches work the best....make sure that you get the band close to the base to maximize grip, however.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by scubasteve
[B]
I hear they are making those factory robots alot tougher these days
[B]
Originally posted by zand02max
Yeah, I hate that screwdriver method, but it was the only way to pry the SUPERGLUED OEM filter off.
OEM Filters are almost always impossible to remove when it is the car's FIRST oil change. I have crushed many with jsut about every tool made to remove oil filters. Just be thankful you don't have the old 80's Nissan Maxima.....I still have scars from those cars. I dreaded them in the summer!!! I would not recommend the screwdriver method because filter often tears and then you're stuck with the base of a filter superglued to the engine! Never done it, but I've heard horror stories. I think that the band wrenches work the best....make sure that you get the band close to the base to maximize grip, however.
Yeah, I hate that screwdriver method, but it was the only way to pry the SUPERGLUED OEM filter off.
OEM Filters are almost always impossible to remove when it is the car's FIRST oil change. I have crushed many with jsut about every tool made to remove oil filters. Just be thankful you don't have the old 80's Nissan Maxima.....I still have scars from those cars. I dreaded them in the summer!!! I would not recommend the screwdriver method because filter often tears and then you're stuck with the base of a filter superglued to the engine! Never done it, but I've heard horror stories. I think that the band wrenches work the best....make sure that you get the band close to the base to maximize grip, however.
some strap wrenches couldn't remove the lid from a peanut butter jar.......I have a nice one that can even have a long 3/8 extension inserted to turn it from the side....but a pipe wrench!!You might want to jsut change the threaded bolt for cheap insurance.
