master window switch issue?
#1
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Thread Starter
master window switch issue?
Just bought a 2005 Z Enthusiast with 49,000 miles. There is only one issue with the car. There is a master switch with two window buttons on the driver side door: one button for the driver side window and one button for the passenger side window. The button on the driver door master switch that controls the passenger side window will roll the passenger window down but will not roll it up. However, the switch located on the passenger door will roll the passenger window up and down. There does not appear to be any issue with the window motor on the passenger side.
So my question is this: What is the source of the problem? Would this most likely be A) a connection problem on the master switch that I could attempt to reconnect (is that doable?), B) a situation where I need to order a new master switch (don’t want to do that - a new master switch is $250), or C) any other plausible solution? Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.
So my question is this: What is the source of the problem? Would this most likely be A) a connection problem on the master switch that I could attempt to reconnect (is that doable?), B) a situation where I need to order a new master switch (don’t want to do that - a new master switch is $250), or C) any other plausible solution? Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.
#2
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Just bought a 2005 Z Enthusiast with 49,000 miles. There is only one issue with the car. There is a master switch with two window buttons on the driver side door: one button for the driver side window and one button for the passenger side window. The button on the driver door master switch that controls the passenger side window will roll the passenger window down but will not roll it up. However, the switch located on the passenger door will roll the passenger window up and down. There does not appear to be any issue with the window motor on the passenger side.
So my question is this: What is the source of the problem? Would this most likely be A) a connection problem on the master switch that I could attempt to reconnect (is that doable?), B) a situation where I need to order a new master switch (don’t want to do that - a new master switch is $250), or C) any other plausible solution? Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.
So my question is this: What is the source of the problem? Would this most likely be A) a connection problem on the master switch that I could attempt to reconnect (is that doable?), B) a situation where I need to order a new master switch (don’t want to do that - a new master switch is $250), or C) any other plausible solution? Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.
#3
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iTrader: (2)
Have you tried rolling the windows up and down with your key? Just put the key in the door and turn the key to the rear (I think) and hold it for a couple seconds. Both windows should roll down. Then turn the key the other way and hold for a couple seconds and both windows should roll up. If both do this several times, I suspect it is not the motor.
You can also make the windows roll down by using your key fob. Just hold down the unlock button for a couple seconds and both windows should roll down. They won't roll up form the fob.
Give this a try and see what happens.
You can also make the windows roll down by using your key fob. Just hold down the unlock button for a couple seconds and both windows should roll down. They won't roll up form the fob.
Give this a try and see what happens.
#4
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Thread Starter
Tried the key test and the windows work well up and down. The passenger side window switch lowers and raises the passenger window without any issues so it does not appear it is a motor issue, although Zmandriving suggests that is the issue.
The problem is that the master switch will lower the passenger window but not raise it so it appears the issue initiates at the master switch. Does anyone know how to test the connections coming into the switch?
The problem is that the master switch will lower the passenger window but not raise it so it appears the issue initiates at the master switch. Does anyone know how to test the connections coming into the switch?
#5
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chances are, its that switch. if you can find a wiring diagram & trace which wire sends juice to power the window motor "up" from the switch, you can use a test light to see if fire is actually exiting the switch . no juice coming out of the switch while working the button, bad switch. if the test light shows juice, then you will need to start tracing wires, check any relays etc. I did auto glass work for 25 yrs & usually, its the switch with what you describe. if it were the motor, it wouldn't work with either switch, key fob etc.
#7
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Xcuzme, the master switch has a plug with about a jillion wires to control all the interlocking functions. 350Zs have a poor quality window motor that often needs repair or replacement. Some men are skilled at handling the male and female parts of the switch plug coupling when they re and re the door panel to get at the window motor. However, in my experience most men are clumsy oafs who jam things in and out without the slightest concern for the mayhem this causes. This is a difficult wire connector to open/close and many of them have been broken displacing one or more wires. Check this first before buying a master switch assembly.
Google for the 350Z factory service manual, as it is a free download from many sites. It has good wiring diagrams showing all the color codes of the individual wires.
Google for the 350Z factory service manual, as it is a free download from many sites. It has good wiring diagrams showing all the color codes of the individual wires.
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#8
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I appreciated Jennifer 2's suggestion to download a service manual to get the wiring diagrams but I took her comments about men's abilities as a bit of a challenge.
Here is the solution: remove the master switch from the door assembly and use a pair of needle nose pliers to firmly re-push each of the multitude of wires into the connector body. That's it. Nothing fancy. The master switch now raises and lowers the passenger window. If you have similar issues this is a reasonable alternative before shelling out $250 for a new master switch.
So, Jennifer 2, I have emerged from the challenge victorious, having demonstrated I am, in fact, not a clumsy oaf who would be happy to come over to "jam things in and out" and demonstrate that I am "skilled at handling the male and female parts."
Here is the solution: remove the master switch from the door assembly and use a pair of needle nose pliers to firmly re-push each of the multitude of wires into the connector body. That's it. Nothing fancy. The master switch now raises and lowers the passenger window. If you have similar issues this is a reasonable alternative before shelling out $250 for a new master switch.
So, Jennifer 2, I have emerged from the challenge victorious, having demonstrated I am, in fact, not a clumsy oaf who would be happy to come over to "jam things in and out" and demonstrate that I am "skilled at handling the male and female parts."
#9
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So I have that same exact problem where the window switch for the passenger side isn't working (in the drivers side master switch) and I've used pliers to push the wires back in but it still hasn't done anything different. The passenger side window still wont roll up with the master switch. Any suggestions?
#10
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Thread Starter
mbissani, I'm not sure I can much help given that the plier solution was the only thing that worked for me. Since then I have noticed that if I pull up all the way on the master switch the passenger window will not go up. However, if I pull only part way up on the master switch the passenger window operates correctly. Bottom line, both of us have an issue in our master switch that does not appear to have a consistent solution. Aside from finding a solution for your particular switch through trial and error, the surest and unfortunately the most expensive course of action seems to be a new master switch. That is the course of action I will end up taking if my problem reappears.
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