I'm almost positive it's the battery. Clean the terminals even if they look clean.

If your battery was good, the horn would sound when the key is held in the crank position.

 

^^^^ lol Definitely not! I could totally understand if I had tho.. Even when I do kinda beat on her I always say 'Good 350! I'll give you a well deserved break.'

Anyways I got it on jack stands.. removed starter relay completely and the click disappeared, so does this mean my ignition (not ignition coil) is ok? Like the ignition is sending the signal to the relay but then something is going on..? I'm about to remove the starter and see if I can spin it, also I've heard some places can test a starter.

I'm leaning towards the starter but we'll see. Thanks for the replies everybody its helping immensely!

 

Ok Syner I'll go clean the hell outta them and see what I can find. I'll also follow the wires farther to see if any breakage/corrosion.

And just to be 100%, you mean turn the key to crank, then honk, correct? Because if I hold the horn first then crank I can still hear the horn. Thank you!

 

Is there a fuse/relay you could check? Have you checked for loose/broken wires?

 

Hahahaha, After a spirited drive when I park my Z (Keisha), I tell her she did good...as I slowly slide my hand across the roof line...

 

I'm really hoping the engine didn't drop a valve.

A starter motor draws massive amperage when it's engaged and can't turn. It may explain the weaker battery, the massive clicking, and the fact that jumping your battery and charging your battery had little to no effect. The fact that rear tires are locked when push-started told me the crankshaft could not turn.

 

Exactly Tucker lol that's why this is hurting so bad.. And yeah pos vett I can't stop thinking about those wheels locking, so if a valve drops it basically blocks the crank from moving?

 

That would totally suck but it does make sense. At least we know it's not lupus. How would one go about checking the valves, just take the cover off and look? I'm not too familiar with the heads on the vq

 

I would like to know this as well, would I just see a hole where a valve would be? I seriously need to invest in a shop manual to get deeper into it without worrying as much

 

A boroscope may be able to take a look inside a cylinder through a spark plug hole; a little less effort than removing a valve cover.

If you take off a valve cover, you can check and see if there is a missing valve stem amidst the coils of a valve spring.

 

Something sounds weird - if it's a power issue, you shouldn't hear the horn whether you pressed it before or during the key turn.

You don't need a shop manual:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/
Enjoy. Full PDF of the factory service manual.

 

Dude you're great thanks so much


And yeah I agree, not sure why I can honk and then turn the key still hearing the horn, but I can't honk after its in the crank position.

I was just under the car, my buddy was turning the key while I was bangin on the starter. No luck.. I must admit I was hearing a lot of noises while I was under there. Sounded like fuel and the throttle body noises but I'm not positive.

I'm going to remove the starter to see if that's the culprit, and if not then check the valvestems.

 

Syner, I think your serotonin levels are really high! Hahaha JK

 

I'll be back to normal in a few days

 

I was able to pull my starter off today and am able to spin it with my fingers.

I'll be taking it to the parts store to get it tested to rule that out.. will update soon

 

Keep us updated I want to find out what it is

 

Sounds like you have some mechanical issues. There is no feature that keeps the rear wheels from turning when you roll the car. Take a breaker bar to the crank pulley and make sure you can turn the engine over by hand

 

Well she tested it 3 times and the starter tested fine every time.

Now I just got done cranking the motor by hand, and thank god she cranked


So the motor isn't seized, seems like nothing is blocking the crank or pistons but for some reason my drivetrain was locking up when I tried push starting before. When I have a volt meter I will check the neutral safety switch I guess, not sure where else to look.

 

The starter clutch interlock switch can be bypassed pretty easily using a jumper wire, no need for an ohm meter.

 

If its turning over ok and still not cranking I think I would check the clutch interlock switch and then the heavy gauge power feed at the starter.