sb22284

iTrader: (1)

It started this winter on me and I didn't really care since it was so cold outside and the car would cool quickly... When my car coolant is warm (lets say at temp), if I turn off the car and try to start it again it wont. All it does is crank. If i wait 20 min or so till the coolant needle is back to the C line it will start right up first crank.

Pic of where the coolant temp is at and still wont fire. One thing to note is when i was taking the pic the CEL light flashed 2 or 3 times. No idea what that means


Car will fire right up when coolant is cold
Will fire when at the C line, first try
Drives normal otherwise, no CELs
Coolant levels (and oil) arr normal

Parts I replaced last summer when I got the car
new yellow top battery
B1 & B2 Cam Sensors
all 4 O2's
Crank sensor
Takeda intake with a new MAF (prev owner just hacked off of stock air box and added a cone. That didn't fly with me)


Note: I did ask my friend who is an infinity tech and he was thinking it might be a throttle body. He had me give it some gas when cranking and still no start

Italianjoe1

iTrader: (6)

If it's running and you turn it off and right back on, will it re-start? Once warm I mean. Or does it only happen after sitting for a little bit.

Spike100

Have you tried getting any codes? I'm not sure you will get any.

I was having a similar problem and replaced camshaft position sensors (all) and crankshaft position sensors. Recently I am getting the SEL light, and the code is bad O2 sensor.

One other note: It may be simply the time delay (and the consequent drop in temperature that allows you to restart the car. When I needed new camshaft and crankshaft sensors, I had to wait awhile before I could restart the car.

--Spike

sb22284

iTrader: (1)

It will not. Once I turn it off, it wont restart till the needle is at or below the C

Yeah I tried pulling codes, nothing... Like you I replaced the cam/crank sensors due to the recall, but that was last summer. As for the time delay, im not sure. I've tried 5/10/15 min and still nothing. Now that its 60 outside it takes about 20+ minutes to hit the C

Spike100

Thanks for additional info. I'm guessing, but pretty sure that it must be a bad sensor. I mean... What else could cause this?

I wonder if one of the newly replaced cam/crank sensors has gone bad. That was the problem in my case. If I remember correctly (this goes back to last summer), one of the new camshaft sensors was faulty, and replacing this fixed the problem you describe here. --Spike

sb22284

iTrader: (1)

bump

tried replacing the throttle body, still having the issue. Also checked and cleaned the MAF as well as the air filter which looks clean as can be. I have 1 code which is a p0420 for my rear passenger o2. It has some split wires because i didn't tuck the excess wire properly and im lowered (oops). Will get replaced in the next week or so but shouldn't be an issue

Any ideas folks? Its getting old asking for friends to come push start me... yes it bump starts just fine... =(

steven350

iTrader: (11)

I recently had motor work done, and I have a check engine light for coolant temp sensor and knock sensor.... And like u, if I shut down my car, I had starting up issues.

Everything was fine under the hood so, assuming they were faulty codes, I put miles on my z, for hours at a time (NY-Atlantic City and back 4 times).... The codes disappeared and the car starts up whenever I want now.

That being said, if you have new sensors ESP crankshaft, maybe the computer has to relearn itself.