My Z is a 2006 with 86K, i'm changing the OEM clutch now, the tranny is already on the floor, I just bought the exedy nsk1000 clutch kit which came with both bearings (pilot and throw out), the clutch disk and pressure plate. My Z stock and will be that way for a long time. Question is aside from these components, what else do I have to change? I've seen threads saying to change the slave if going with aftermarket clutches but considering my kit is a basic OEM replacement I guess im gonna be fine? Also my main concern is the flywheel. Do I have to replace it or can I use the same? Below is a link to pictures of my old and new clutch and pressure plate and the OEM flywheel so if anybody here knows about this please chime in. Thanks in advance.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...t=folder%2cjpg

 

I wouldnt change either cylinder in your particular case. If it was me, I'd take this opportunity to go with a lightweight flywheel but if you dont it's not the end of the world, if not, just have your OEM machined while its off the car. I would also look into a steel-braided clutchline, they are pretty reasonable ($30) and will give you a better feel during higher temps.

 

So I have to remove it anyways? Why do people say that these flywheels can't be resurfaced? Or machined and resurfaced ain't the same? I don't know it its normal but in my flywheel the contact area can be rotated a little. Is that why they call it a dual mass? Or that ain't normal? An old school mechanic told me to just pass an 800 sand paper and that should do, do I need to remove the flywheel to change the pilot bearing? Can I change the clutch line later with the transmission and everything all back there? Because I need the car ASAP and if i order it its gonna take a while.

 

Yes you can replace the clutch line later without the removal of much.

 

I had my flywheel resurfaced and its worked fine. They don't recommend doing it because its a dual mass flywheel. I probably wouldn't resurface it more than once though and will replace it with a solid unit next time I do a clutch job.

 

You don't have the CSC so if your slave isn't leaking I would leave it alone.

+1 on the stainless braided line.

That flywheel has some hot spots but it should still be good enough to resurface if your local machine shop can do a dual mass flywheel.

I went with a light flywheel. After getting used to it I'm glad I ditched the stock flywheel.

 

perfect!! thank guys!!

 

hey guys! Few questions:

1. is the pilot bearing worth changing? My clutch kit came with it, but it seems fine and at the same time a PITA to get out, so let me know. Also, do i need to remove the flywheel to remove it? If i have to change it, any tips would be helpful.

2. I was planning on also change the oil, but i read on the manual that it uses GL4, i went to my local auto parts stores and they sell GL5 or hybrid GL4-GL5 compatible oil and i dont feel too good about those, any recommendations on that? Mines a 2006 with 86K+ and everything is the OEM stuff so i guess it's time to change it, it's not burned or smell weird though. So what do you guys recommend.

 

If it was me, I'd remove the pilot bearing because you are this deep in the repair...it'd be a shame if you got everything back together and 5k miles it started going out...

Either get OEM tranny fluid or go with aftermarket variant, redline, royal purple, amsoil...but I would swap fluids because the tranns is out of the car.

 

I changed mine to the nismo roller pilot bearing.

If you have a slide hammer removal is cake. You may also get lucky using grease and the alignment tool.

 

i dont have the slide hammer How to remove it with the alignment tool? Put some grease on the pilot bearing and start pivoting it side to side? Do I have to remove the flywheel to remove the pilot bearing?

How much quarts does our transmission takes? I was looking on the manual, but it doesnt states nothing more than the type.

 

The owners manual will have fluid capacities.

You shouldn't have to remove the flywheel but it will make it easier to get to.

If the alignment tool fits snug in the pilot bushing you can put some grease in the bushing and shove the alignment tool in the hole. Grease can't compress so it will either squeeze between the tool and the bushing or it will push the bushing out from the back side. If you can get it to move out a little you can grab it with 2 pairs of pliers and pull it out.

I used a slide hammer with a small hook on it. One hit and it popped out.

 

i cant find them, in the PDF manual, that section doesnt contains anything, only in the type area is that specifies about it being GL-4 but in capacity it states nothing, so how much quarts is it?

 

Im changing my clutch out soon to a EXEDY NSK1000 OEM. it comes with a solid bearing like stock. Was wondering if you think its worth the money and did you notice anything different when you installed yours?

 

It's a needle bearing vs a bushing. It is so minute that it wont be noticable but I see it as a little less wear to it will support the front of the input shaft a little better. The solid standard bushing will be fine as they have worked for many years.

 

Thanks man idk if you can answer this but ive been told if im changing the clutch I should change the rear main seal should I even worry about doing this? It looks like the seal isn't made of rubber so I wouldn't ee why it needs replacing.

 

IIRC you have to drop the upper oil pan on our cars to replace the rear main. If it's not leaking don't bother with it.

On other vehicles it's wise to do that just as a precaution since you're already right there. But on ours it's more trouble than it's worth if it isn't leaking yet.