I've done it about 20 times with no change in pedal feel. I can't believe that's what would solve it.

 

I had to recruit my teenage son to get any pressure. I had him pump the pedal like crazy while I worked under the car. He was getting crabby and ready to quit on me when we started getting pressure. Short story ... keep pumping.

 

What an absolutely stupid design if you're supposed to just sit there for hours pumping

 

If its taking you hours, you are doing something wrong

 

Yes. So what is it? Like i said I'm following these steps exactly. I'm about to try bench bleeding the mc

 

Here's my update. I "bench bled" the system on the car by disconnecting the mc from the pedal and just pushing it with a screw driver while leaving the bleeder open on the slave. Essentially this method:


If I do it his way, just close the bleeder and check the pedal, it has some pressure but its squishy, the slave moves probably about half that it should and I can't get it in gear. If I follow that with conventional bleeding, pump the pedal, hold it, crack bleeder, close it, I lose all pressure in the system and I'm back to square one.

 

ANOTHER update:
I said **** it, I put the new slave back on again, but this time I put fluid in it before I put it on, and I tightened the clutch line on the slave before I bolted the slave on. Without even any bleeding, it works. What the actual f**k? Pedal still feels a little weird but it drives just fine so I'm taking it to my mechanic who knows what he's doing to bleed it properly, because I'm done with the mess.

 

I assume you mark it so you can return it to it's original position? I saw a diagram, which I can't find again.......that having the rod adjusted too far inwards is not a good thing. So the freeplay of the pushrod rod should be pretty much zero AFTER BLEEDING?

Thanks

 

Where it was before isn't super critical. You just want to adjust it where you get as much travel as possible when you push the pedal in, but make sure the pedal isn't pushing on the rod when not pressed. Get the wheels in the air, pur it in gear and push the pedal in, if the rear wheels don't move, you should be fine. If you haven't adjusted it yet, may I suggest just disconnecting the rod from the pedal and pushing it all the way in with a screwdriver. That's what I did since adjusting the rod all the way out still wasn't giving me enough travel.

 

Great! Thanks Man

 

what tool did you use to adjust the rod

 

Just use an open ended wrench or an adjustable wrench for the lock nut. For the push rod attached to the clevis, once you get the clevis pin removed, you can simply spin the push rod for the master cylinder by hand to adjust the length.