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Just finished bleeding my clutch after my TT install. Everything is new and just wanted to share my findings after reading the countless threads on this forum. My head was spinning after reading it all and trying all the methods. First thing is to adjust the rod all the way in on the pedal. Make sure you mark it so you know about where it was before. Then, follow the FSM exactly. Do not do the conventional, push down, open bleeder, pull up and repeat or you will be doing that for days. They key is to push the pedal 4 or 5 times, hold it down, open bleeder, close bleeder and then pull up. WAIT 5 or more seconds ( very important) then repeat. After doing this I had fluid at the bleeder withing a few times; when I was doing the old way I had nothing after 15 mins. Just thought I would share. Hopefully someone will read this thread instead of all the other ones and save some headache. It is a pain but not really that bad!
Just finished bleeding my clutch after my TT install. Everything is new and just wanted to share my findings after reading the countless threads on this forum. My head was spinning after reading it all and trying all the methods. First thing is to adjust the rod all the way in on the pedal. Make sure you mark it so you know about where it was before. Then, follow the FSM exactly. Do not do the conventional, push down, open bleeder, pull up and repeat or you will be doing that for days. They key is to push the pedal 4 or 5 times, hold it down, open bleeder, close bleeder and then pull up. WAIT 5 or more seconds ( very important) then repeat. After doing this I had fluid at the bleeder withing a few times; when I was doing the old way I had nothing after 15 mins. Just thought I would share. Hopefully someone will read this thread instead of all the other ones and save some headache. It is a pain but not really that bad!
First thing is to adjust the rod all the way in on the pedal. Make sure you mark it so you know about where it was before.
Originally Posted by HardRocker
I just experienced this clutch bleeding ordeal on our '03 Touring. Could not get any new fluid to move through the system after repeated pumping and trying a vacuum bleeder.
Turns out the free play adjustment rod and pedal was stopping the clutch master cylinder piston from moving all the way to it's rear to open the fluid port to the reservoir.
Make sure you adjust that rod in so the piston moves all the way back, then it's just a simple pump and hold old school bleeding procedure.
thanks man, ill keep this in mind.
Now, dumb question because I am new and still doing my research, a few years ago HardRocker said the exact same thing you are saying. So if I adjustment my rod all the way back, will that allow me to use a power bleeder to bleed my slave and master?
If you're using a power bleeder and you can't get any of the fluid to flow through your line, then you are likely correct that the push rod is not out enough. Either that, or something is wrong with the install, not using the bleeder correctly, etc.
If you follow escobar's approach, then you won't need a power bleeder. I've actually bled the clutch using both methods. Recently, I replaced my clutch master cylinder. After I removed the OEM MC, I compared it next to the new one and adjusted the clevis so the push rod would be the same length. Happy to help if you run into any issues.
so wheres the bleeder valve? I read theres one on the master, but isnt there one on the slave too? here is how I have all of this in my head..
1. Underneath the car, unhook the slave hose and put it into a bottle
2. Up top, with a turkey baster, remove most of the old clutch fluid
3. Adjust rod all the way to the firewall
4. Use a power bleeder to pump new fluid through master and slave system
is this even remotely correct? I just hate pumping a pedal if I dont have to
What year is your Z? I have the '05 DE. I cracked the bleeder valve on the slave under the car and put a piece of tubing from it to a bottle and bled it from there. I didn't put the actual line to the slave in the bottle because I wanted to make sure there was no air anywhere.
That should work for the 03-05. If you have an 06 or 07-08, I think the procedure is different.
eeeewww on the Z1 kit. i didnt like it, you are supposed to adjust it every 3k miles or so. should have went with the Zspeed setup, that one is easy peasy to bleed
So I just called up Spencer at Z1 Motorsports. Great guy, always great customer service on their CSC elimination kit. They said to bleed their kit, the bleeder valve is at the top of the black section. So if you are staring at it beneath the car, you wont see it from the bottom.
He verified that my method above should work with the bleeder. I may do it next weekend, i'll update this thread when I do.
Just replaced my slave cylinder, but using this method is not helping. Pump the pedal 5 times, hold the pedal down, crack the bleeder on the slave, close it, let the pedal up, wait 5 seconds repeat. Each time a little bit of fluid comes out but I still have zero pressure in the pedal. Any other ideas on what to try or check? Also what did he mean by priming the slave?
If you're using the pedal pump method, it works and the fact that some fluid comes out is a good sign, but it takes a while and you have to repeat many times to get ALL the air out. You can "prime" the slave cylinder if you leave the bleeder valve open and let gravity pull some of the fluid through it if it's completely dry as long as the system is open.
From the FSM:
Last edited by Heel Til I Die; Sep 19, 2020 at 11:51 AM.
How to bleed clutch
