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HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off

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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 04:56 PM
  #1  
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Exclamation HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off

Ok, so after seven hours all day while removing my rear sub frame by myself one of the four bolts holding the sub frame in just tore off (the driver side bolt connected to the rear stay pin). This Z is an 03 and has had been through eleven winters up in Chicago. So this isn't very surprising. I don't really know where to start with replacing this bolt, but any help would awesome. Thank guys.
Attached Thumbnails HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161110_105953.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161111_173925.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161111_173929.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161111_173948.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161111_174004.jpg  

HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161111_174021.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161111_174042.jpg  
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 05:39 PM
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nightmare.
hopefully some of the experts chime in
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 01:06 PM
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Wow, that's a mess. Only thing I can think of is to find another car with a good stud in that location and cut out the area a few inches around it. Cut out the same area on your car, and weld in the used section.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 02:33 PM
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@dcains, yea I was thinking that too. My local wrench a part has a 05 Z over there. I was dreading about it but there aren't many more options it seems
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 05:01 PM
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Before you cut the old part out, find the exact center of the stud and mark the X-Y position on the frame outside the cut-out area so you can properly position the replacement piece.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 06:49 PM
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Another thought that came to my mind is what if I drilled out that bolt, re-tapped it, and found a stud bolt that would fit both the frame and sub frame bushing. Here's a link to an example of what I'm talking about: http://3.imimg.com/data3/GG/UO/MY-40...ud-250x250.jpg

P.S. I would rather go this route (if it works) since I have no experience with welding and I am on a bit of a budget for this project.

Last edited by zdudez; Nov 12, 2016 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 08:12 PM
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I guess it depends on how much you can drill out, and what sort of material is left to be re-tapped,
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:06 AM
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Yea I'm gonna grind out the rust today see how far I get with that and try to find out how thick the metal is where I'd be tapping into. I'll post some pictures with the progress.
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:32 AM
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best of luck.
rooting for you
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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So I decided to go a different route. I drilled out the entire bolt that was in the sub frame, which was a *****. I also angle grinded most of the rust out and put some Rustoleum primer and paint to suppress the rust from spreading. I was more concerned of it not drilling straight since it is a lot to drill through. It came out better then I had intended. I purchased a 3/4 bolt and nut along with washers for when my new sub frame comes in. The bolt is much thicker then the stock ones so I'm not worried about it cracking. If anything there is a tiny amount of play in it nothing substantial. I'm only worried that over time it might start to open up the hole I drilled out. Any thoughts on that guys?
Attached Thumbnails HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161114_102538.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161114_113731.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_095945.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_095957.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_100007.jpg  

HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_100017.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_100211.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_100223.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_100226.jpg   HELP! Subframe Bolt Tore Off-20161115_152641.jpg  

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