Nackers

Here is a little history.

Car has been sitting for 4 years without an engine.
ECM has Osiris tune for turbonetics kit.
New battery
Tried to reset the ECM with the key and pedal dance. No change.

Trouble codes from my generic OBD-II scanner
P0000
P0000
P0000
P0007
B1412
P1209
P0000
P0000
Also 8 duplicates Pending. I'm not sure what that means.

I have been searching and can not figure out what my issue is. From the research with the NATS, it seems that if triggered, the engine would crank, but would not start and I would have a trouble code.

I can jump the starter to activate it. But when cranking there is no voltage getting to the starter solenoid. Also, the fuel pump doesn't prime. I've checked the fuses and they seem good. My next step today is to verify they have voltage when required (I'll update with that).

Everything else seems to be working as it should. Although I am missing a lot of OE since 2011 when the car became a race car, but that was never any issue in the past.

I've been pulling what little hair I have left out over this thing and I need to get it sorted soon because I'm selling my house and moving to California and it is useless if it can't move because I will not have a garage to work on it.


Can anyone give some pointers or ideas as to why this is happening? Internet and forum searching have not been very fruitful.

Thank you.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Hate to say it, but you are in deep doo-doo. From the brief description you provided, there's multiple electronic failures going on. With little time to sort it out before you move, I hope you're not thinking you're going to drive this car to Cali, are you?

Save your hair and open your pocketbook to get some outside help. No way you're going to find a cheap and easy fix from behind a keyboard...

Nackers

I don't plan on driving it.

I have 2 months to get it sorted.

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

Nackers

So quick update.

No power to the fuel pump or starter fuses or relay.

Jumped 12V to the ECU CONT fuse by the battery and the fuel pump kicked on and I was able to activate the starter.

New question. What would cause that fuse to be without power? It seems like all the wires are connected and there is 12V constant and grounds throughout. Ideas?

Nackers

I need to make a small correction. It was not the ECU CONT fuse... that dosen't exist. It was the ECU IGN fuse.

Anyway, tonight I took the IPDM out of the car thinking that there must be a bad connection there. After taking it completely apart (which wasn't too bad), I was able to figure out what was connected to what. I can't read wiring schematics very well so for me, this was best in order to somewhat understand what was going on.

Everything looked good, but I became familiar with the routing. I proceeded to re-assemble and re-install it to the car. No luck.

Followed the FSM for checking the IPDM and it turned out fine. So the desperation settled in and I decided since the headlight relays and the fuel pump relay were the same to just switch them.

F-me... it worked. Key on and the fuel pump kicked on. Tried to start the car and it would just crank for about 5 seconds and pop. No starting though. It may be some other issue with that unit (fuse, relay, etc) or maybe I don't have something else hooked up (I have many plugs disconnected to auxiliary items like headlights) OR it could be the 5 year old fuel in it.

Whatever is going on, that is my next obstacle. I'm assuming I'll be doing some more searching to figure out the problem. Unless someone has ran into something similar to this or knows off hand some area's to look to get me started.




One day I will drive again. One day, hopefully sooner than later.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Before you do anything else, drain the fuel tank completely and refill with fresh premium unleaded.

Nackers

So some more updates.

I still haven't put fresh fuel in. I need to get on that soon.

The car would crank for like 5 seconds before it would start to pop because I didn't have the crank sensor installed. Stupid mistake.

After it was plugged in, the car would immediately try to pop and sputter, but wouldn't start. It would even kick big fireballs out but didn't run.

I spoke with a few technicians about it and one swore up and down that I must have the flywheel installed wrong. The other said my mechanical timing was messed up or I had the bank 1 cam's installed on bank 2 and visa versa.

I pulled the motor back out to check the flywheel. It was fine.

Pulled the valve covers off and rotated the engine to be TDC cylinder 1... all marks lined up.

I figured since I needed to return the hoist that I would just put the motor back in because if I had to do anything else short of pulling the heads, I could do it with the engine in the car.

Today, I hooked all the sensors back up and everything and decided for the hell of it, just try and start it. It started up immediately. I gave it a slight rev after a few starts and it revved past 2500 rpm which tells me everything must be good.

The main reason for this post isn't for me... it is for people searching this issue. I had a hell of a time finding information that was useful and when I did, mostly would see unresolved problems or someone just saying search.

As far as what fixed it. I don't have any idea. It is a complete mystery, but I've already got the turbo and exhaust hooked up. Just need to run oil lines and assemble the front end then worry about breaking the new engine in. BTW, it's got awesome oil pressure too which was a huge relief to me.