Rear main seal leak??
Car was covered in oil, degreased it and got it all cleaned up, took it for a small drive put it back up and saw this. At least I have pinpointed the location, is this definitely the rear main seal causing a leak?
Last edited by nismoasfuh; Apr 6, 2019 at 04:36 PM.
yea there was oil around the oil cooler hose, I'll replace the O-ring next oil change. The oil pan was also ugly looking, so thats probably due for RTV / gasket. But this oil seems to be dripping right where the tranny mates to the block. This freaking brace is right in the way of having a clear look, it also get caked with oil cause it just drops onto the top of the brace as the video shows, or else I'm sure the puddle on the floors would be much more significant too :/ I tried to follow the leak as far up as I could, and it seems the leak is just down low. Im so anxious over this issue right now. I see rear main seal stop leak additives and a breather filters for my PCV in the future lol
Rear main. Replace the seal and replace the PCV valve. A stuck or sticky PCV can cause the seal to blow out. May as well replace the clutch and T/O bearing while you're there (if it's a stick).
Thats the thing, clutch was replaced by previous owner one year ago at a reputable shop, they did the rear main but the shop is located 250+ miles away. I already ordered the PCV valve though. I really don't want to put additives, but I'm thinking I'm going to have to because its leaking a decent amount in my opinion. Also wouldn't my clutch be slipping if the rear main seal is leaking? Or it just hasn't gotten to that point yet probably lol
Last edited by nismoasfuh; Apr 6, 2019 at 07:06 PM.
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Sounds like they either scratched the seat where the seal goes, or screwed up the seal. Additives won't fix it. Your seal is metal. Additives are for dried out rubber seals. It makes the rubber soften and swell. The clutch won't slip unless it gets much worse. The oil mostly hits the flywheel and gets slung against the inside of the bell housing.
Ok so If I find a decent shop to do the job is there anything in specific i should tell them to look out for? or should I just hand them the FSM and hope that they read it? Or just give them some RTV grey to RTV the **** out of the seal?
Its a little bit of a headache to do. I pulled the motor and upper oil pan to replace it on mine. I've heard its possible to do without dropping the pan, but that just isn't worth the time I'll spend fiddling with it, IMO. Try a clutch shop if the others quote you crazy prices and see what they'll charge.
Its a little bit of a headache to do. I pulled the motor and upper oil pan to replace it on mine. I've heard its possible to do without dropping the pan, but that just isn't worth the time I'll spend fiddling with it, IMO. Try a clutch shop if the others quote you crazy prices and see what they'll charge.
I have had a rear main leak like yours for a while now. JWT flywheel, absolutely zero clutch slippage issues. Main seals are one of those areas where if you arent going to keep the car forever, it may be best to just leave alone. I have run trucks with bad front/rear main leaks for many many, many miles with no issues, other than severe oil consumption on account of it leaking like a sieve from multiple places.
I have had a rear main leak like yours for a while now. JWT flywheel, absolutely zero clutch slippage issues. Main seals are one of those areas where if you arent going to keep the car forever, it may be best to just leave alone. I have run trucks with bad front/rear main leaks for many many, many miles with no issues, other than severe oil consumption on account of it leaking like a sieve from multiple places.
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