Fuel return hose keeps blocking my float it seems. I recently cleaned my sensors and it was the first time my fuel gauge has read full since I got the car in February. When I removed the fuel pump the return hose had tangled in the float making it very difficult to remove. So I made sure to give it some space when I reinstalled it. Then everything was good until at 140 miles into the full tank my dte light came on and my gauge read empty. I took everything back apart and cleaned both sensors again. There was barely any accumulation on them but the return hose was again tangled in the float. Has anyone experienced this issue before?

 

I've never heard of this problem before. Do you have an aftermarket assembly? I'm wondering if the pump is indexed/clocked wrong in the tank (if that's even possible)? I would need to see photos to better understand the problem, but I suspect this is a simple hose routing issue in relation to the clock/indexing of the pump.

You mention return hose, so is your fuel system modified? Stock 350Zs use a return-less system (pump is PWM controlled).

Cheers!
-Icer

 

So I really don't want to get back in there until tomorrow but I took a screen shot of a YouTube video to show where it connects to on the pump

 

Also icer got to say you've been coming in cluth with the responses and help thanks a lot.

 

The internal hose connection is a fluid transfer/ballast hose (I think). The 350Z uses a saddle bag style fuel tank, which means fuel can essentially get trapped on the driver's side of the tank. To keep the fuel balanced across both sides, there's a fuel transfer hose. It's been a long time since I had my fuel pump out. But the internal hose should be routed on the opposite side of the pump assembly (away from the fuel level sender arm) to keep it from causing any interference issues. I never really gave it much thought when I replaced my fuel pump, I just let the hose find it's natural position in the tank when I was re-installing the assembly. It's such a tight fit, there isn't really much you can do.

Also, there's a secondary fuel level sender on the driver's side of the Z. If that starts acting up, you will get bad readings at your fuel gauge.

Should be obvious, but here's how the pump should be oriented in relation to the front and back of the car.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Oh the "easy" driver side unit was the one I did first. Even with the added step of removing the subwoofer I thought I'd be good to practice on the much simpler sensor at least until my hand slipped and I sliced my finger to the bone, it's freaky how much a finger bleeds. But back to the fuel pump. I reinstalled it the right direction very easy to double check.
yeah it's fuel transfer hose I watched like 5 vids on how to do it and i remember 2 of them calling it return hose the other didn't specify just said unclipped this hose.
so the first time i took the pump out I had to work that hose free from around the float, it was literally wrapped around it. So when I put it back I made sure the hose went in first . When I took it out yesterday although it wasn't wrapped around it like last time I still had to remove it from on top of the float in order to get the pump out. I'll get out there and take it apart again to see if it happened again but I'll at least take some photos of pump and area to show.
so when I peeked in to it today it hadn't wrapped around it so I didn't want to mess with it again unless it happens again
so in the photo the three lines represent how I ran the hose to the pump. The red being the way I found it when I removed the wrap. blue being the first time I cleaned the sensors. and the yellow being the "screw it let's see what happens if I don't try". The hose is much longer than it needs to be it seems without pulling on it it easily comes out over 16-18 inches *giggity* outside of the tank and it is still connected.