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Round two... Took the low mileage engine (35k), CD009, low mileage vlsdifferential, Greddy 18G kit, wheels, and 6 pot 14" wilwood kit+small items from my 6 speed swapped G35X and moved it all into a 2004 PP white Z.
Swapped the exhaust for a full ISR 3" single with 4" tip, added suckerpunch motorsports open dump tubes, and put down 40 more foot pounds of torque (430) at 1 less PSI than I did in my G with a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
I also took the time to change out all of the suspension bushings front and rear and threw some coils in too. **The car feels OK until it gets a bit squirly sometimes**, I still have more suspension work to do and need some bigger tires. The 275 Michelin pilot super sports spin in third regularly. **Rear wheel bearing was shot!**
Thus far this build has been pretty subtle, especially comparing to others on here. I just wanted to put this all in one place.
I'm not sure how much time I want to put into it after banging up my G35 with a few years of work in it. That being said I re-did all of the work and more in a fraction of the time on the Z so I could get used to this. Could also really go all out and get into building the shop up into a cnc/welding shop and have some fun with the z at the same time... We'll see. Until then enjoy some pictures of the journey.
Ready for paint...
Ready for scrap yard... What a dick move. 20 mph, front bumper disintegrated, and I removed the intercooler before this pic,
$4400, 238,000 miles 6 speed (November 2016)
Bone stock with the wilwoods and WedsSport SA15R 19x10.5/9.5+25 wheels
FML! Pulling G motor in new garage. (June 2017)
Z build begins mid june 2017- First step; stop moping around and drop the subframe
Solid subframe, differential, engine, and tranny mounts
Zbones with poly
Not as shiny as they used to come...
Suckerpunch motorsports dump tubes installed with 11PSI springs
Replaced all gaskets, switched to stainless hardware, tapped some holes on the greddy flanges to make things easier/more reliable, inspected turbos.......... Glad I did, A freakin chipmunk somehow got into my covered intake and used my turbo for storage!
after suspension was done, and engine prepped, engine dropped in
Kept the crash bar this time.... Tubular next time I have to take the clip off. I like this dual pass oil cooler too, haven't monitored temps yet though.
There yah go, 4-5 months after work and on weekends took a chassis with 238k on it and made it feel like a race car off the showroom floor. Every bushing, bearing, (can't say EVERY ball joint just yet- need to replace compression rods), down to the steering column u joint is low mileage or new.
Nice car, jeez that oil cooler is huge. It's hanging a bit too low for my liking, you definitely don't want to damage that on a bump, curb or steep driveway.
Can I convince you to relocate your oil cooler away from / behind your IC?
this. I run a 34 row on driver side behind my IC. Fits tightly with some trimming of core support. I also run a 19 row in parallel and my temps stay low.
Did a track day today, ambient temps at 54, ran hard and never got above 200.
Can I convince you to relocate your oil cooler away from / behind your IC?
did you modify the SuckerPunch waste gate relocation pipes or did Jeramiah do that?
Originally Posted by Cux350z
this. I run a 34 row on driver side behind my IC. Fits tightly with some trimming of core support. I also run a 19 row in parallel and my temps stay low.
Did a track day today, ambient temps at 54, ran hard and never got above 200.
Thanks Blue. But yeah fellas it's not very hard to convince me to move that thing... I actually am going to replace it and I'm going to cut it open. I feel like the oil doesn't get forced through the bars. Inlet and outlet feel same temp... No weld marks showing a plate between the inlet and outlet to force fluid through bars... could have been sanded/polished, we'll see...
Running the new one behind the radiator will open up space so I will probably skip buying the tubular radiator support... Savin $!
Regarding those relocation pipes, they came like that. They also didn't fit... So I had to pay someone to weld them after I cut and marked them...Twice... It was a huge pain. Mainly because I had a tuning appointent that was coming up, and SPMS said they would send me a replacement which never showed up.
Running the new one behind the radiator will open up space
There's no right answer and by no means am I throwing stones or being recalcitrant*... Especially with the greddy kit (and their unsmart filters) but if theres a place away from the intakes to put the cooler - consider it? do what you think is best? do what you can get away with? Heating your intake charge is foolish.
*
1.having an obstinately uncooperative attitude toward authority or discipline.
2.a person with an obstinately uncooperative attitude.
(my old boss used this word 24/7, only reason I know it)
There's no right answer and by no means am I throwing stones or being recalcitrant*... Especially with the greddy kit (and their unsmart filters) but if theres a place away from the intakes to put the cooler - consider it? do what you think is best? do what you can get away with? Heating your intake charge is foolish.
*
1.having an obstinately uncooperative attitude toward authority or discipline.
2.a person with an obstinately uncooperative attitude.
(my old boss used this word 24/7, only reason I know it)
I've got some data that lets me live with the decision to mount it there. You may have some too? Yes, lower IAT's are best... You get increased longevity and more power at the same boost levels just to start. If neither of you have yet, I'll log ambient and IAT's at idle and WOT with the oil cooler in front of and behind the IC.
That data:
My buddys vortech 350z would idle with IAT's averaging 15-20 degrees above ambient. When he would get on the throttle, those temps would soar another 40 degrees up (ideal gas law+faster air velocity/shorter time in IC etc). He was putting down 450WHP with a 2.87 pulley for years and drove it very frequently.
With the greddy kit, my IAT's average 5 degrees above ambient while stationary/idling. When on the throttle they rise an additional 20 degrees with the current setup. That's enough to let me sleep at night.
Anyway, I'm going to buy a replacement heat exchanger core and go from there to refit it somewhere else this winter. I just don't trust this one. Even their dual pass radiator has visible welded partitions... Oil cooler is totally smooth. Any suggestions for best bang for buck?
Looks pretty smooth...
Could be a front-back configuration, but the fittings are centered and no partition line up the side the long way either?
With the greddy kit, my IAT's average 5 degrees above ambient while stationary/idling. When on the throttle they rise an additional 20 degrees with the current setup. That's enough to let me sleep at night.
some good analysis - indeed do what you think is best! I'm not trying to build your build.
I'm sorta on a different boat than most as my front end is frankenstein'd ... Ive got a 20 or 30 logs I'm going to pull data from to compare ECT and IATs as greddy designed it. I believe my temps are a little higher than 20 degrees but I'll look at the logs.
Originally Posted by yosip1115
Any suggestions for best bang for buck?
I have found best bang for the buck & best performance comes from the nascar world...my radiator, oil coolers, and an auxiliary oil filter are all nascar hammy-downs.
some good analysis - indeed do what you think is best! I'm not trying to build your build.
I'm sorta on a different boat than most as my front end is frankenstein'd ... Ive got a 20 or 30 logs I'm going to pull data from to compare ECT and IATs as greddy designed it. I believe my temps are a little higher than 20 degrees but I'll look at the logs.
I have found best bang for the buck & best performance comes from the nascar world...my radiator, oil coolers, and an auxiliary oil filter are all nascar hammy-downs.
My Dad will love this, I'll look for a nascar OC. We caught him driving to the store taking only left turns once...
I took the time to make it through your thread the other night. There was a lot to take in but overall looking good. Intense work. What tires are you running? Cold weather over there...
Let me know what your IAT's are comparing to ambient... You've seen data from greddy? Did I misinterpret that?
My Dad will love this, I'll look for a nascar OC. We caught him driving to the store taking only left turns once...
I took the time to make it through your thread the other night. There was a lot to take in but overall looking good. Intense work. What tires are you running? Cold weather over there...
Let me know what your IAT's are comparing to ambient... You've seen data from greddy? Did I misinterpret that?
sorry if this is windy...
My immediate thought (concerning nascar) is that if you can run a high displacement engine, that hard, for that long, they're doing something right...I bought a setrab AN-4 diff cooler for $15 shipped...my combo C&R radiator/oil cooler was $200...I also like how they use the AN fittings everywhere - I've never overheated and I'm currently not running a cooling fan and the passive airflow keeps my temps down (I'm not sure if I'm going to put my 16" spal back on or drop down to a smaller fan to accommodate a revised intake (filter to turbo) setup. A fan will be put back on at some point.
Running a set of BFG which were on a set of RPF1s I picked up (I dropped 64lbs of rotational mass from a set of 20" TSW)...The tires are absolute junk!!!! They break loose at 6psi, traction control takes over, and the party is over...They'll work fine and I have plans to get the wheels powder coated silver over the winter...I like the Toyos R888 (or one of their street variants)...
Nothing formal from Greddy...just from my setup how greddy designed it (ie filters behind radiator & weird duct setup (that snakes around the alt & AC))...I'm going to be as scientific as I can...
That's pretty amazing, it opens up so much room with what looks like no compromise. They did a really nice job designing that. Will still retain bumper and more importantly fender liners...
Do you know who's it is?
Certainly beats the drift armor tubular crash bar... But could use some sort of crash bar to protect the IC
I wonder if this was a one man job. Certainly inspirational
why not fab something up like this yourself? Dream something up, make sketches, buy material, and fabricate -
I'd imagine it's a one off but that doesnt mean you 'can't' borrow ideas ... something this pretty you dont want to put a bumper on!
side note: I've got most my data logs comb'd through for coolant temp, intake temp, and I'm pulling an approximate ambient air temp (I dont know that the haltech records this) to create a 3d graph.
I can take this one step further and add some data of my revised intake with water/meth spray ... interesting discussion going on across the way -
Before I get rambling why are you throwing coolant temp into the mix? It will be hard to correlate that for conclusions since the tstat is there to regulate it regardless of ambient temp. Also can you tie into the Ambient air temp sensor or add one into an analog input on the haltech?
Unfortunately I don't weld, I machine and design as you know. It's sort of like fishing and golfing... You can't do both. At least how I feel.
I plan to pick it up, I just know how much time I will spend learning... perfecting... Practicing... So I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Also finances are always a thing. Won't be cheap.
Regarding the bumper, I agree, but something holds me back...
I just got a speeding ticket the other night heading back home from the holiday. I was literally cruising off of the gas in 6th. 77 in a 55 section of a two lane highway with guardrails and a shoulder/rumble strips.
Guy had the audacity to say he did me a favor... He wrote me for 74. Okay buddy. Gfy and sleep well tonight telling yourself that as you're taking money from responsible people while waiting for your pension.
I don't want to give them any more reasons to take my hard earned money. They should have better things to do. And the roads are still **** after all of these tickets... Where's it going?
I own up to my mistakes, if I was truly speeding (turbos going) he'd be taking me out of the car at gunpoint if he tried to catch me and succeeded (I've never ran, never want to)
That was just bullcrap the other night. Always when I'm tired and just want to be in bed with work the next morning.
Random thread update:
Progress will be slow for me this winter. I'm in the middle of finding a new job and relocating. I'll have more spending money after this is all done though.
Its my immediate thought that most police officers are good-natured and want to serve & protect. But of course there's always a bad apple ...
what if you design something, but all the material, do the cuts & shaping and hire a welder to do the welding? I did this for a few years and then finally bought a TIG last year when I had some cash come in.
Its my immediate thought that most police officers are good-natured and want to serve & protect. But of course there's always a bad apple ...
what if you design something, but all the material, do the cuts & shaping and hire a welder to do the welding? I did this for a few years and then finally bought a TIG last year when I had some cash come in.
That is also what I do. There is a shop down the road from me that does jobs averaging $10 per weld or less. Cast iron manifold repair... $20 bucks! (with proper practice- heating- cooling etc)
I could probably give them drawings with angles etc and they would do the jig work if I had to guess.
What sort of power are you running to the Tig? 220? How many amps? I'll keep this in mind when selecting a new garage
What sort of power are you running to the Tig? 220? How many amps? I'll keep this in mind when selecting a new garage
I'm huge on doing as much as I can myself
I bought an everlast 200 (220v 200amps AC/DC tig/stick) about a year ago ... it's awesome and its gonna be as much welder as I'm gonna ever need. $1250 shipped with all accessories. I bought a 300cf tank ($300) and ordered a bunch of electrodes/cups/collets ($100) and I'm off and running.
I bought an everlast 200 (220v 200amps AC/DC tig/stick) about a year ago ... it's awesome and its gonna be as much welder as I'm gonna ever need. $1250 shipped with all accessories. I bought a 300cf tank ($300) and ordered a bunch of electrodes/cups/collets ($100) and I'm off and running.
That's honestly not bad at all. You're not the first to recommend an everlast. 20 year warranty I believe?
It will pay for itself... Won't be easy to find a garage for rent with that sort of power. Might consider a quiet diesel generator
11-11-2017, 10:13 AM
Round 2 Greddy Twin Build
