6th Annual Spring Skyline Drive, VA Cruise: Sunday, May 10
#221
Well, there’s a proper way to bed your pads and its basically just taking it easy for the first few hundred miles so they seat against the rotors really good. Then you can just let loose. If you just let loose out the gate you risk causing a glaze or just damaging them...especially slotted rotors.
Well, most local cops run with the radar on and that’s why we can pick them up with our radar detectors. Those systems take a few seconds to boot up (the cops radar). The state police here in Va have the same radar, but it’s fitted with instant on. It allows them to keep their radar off, making them undetectable, and then flipping a switch (their system instantly boots up with KA band, being able to tag two cars at once) when they have you in their sights....IE, when it's too late. Much like being hit with laser. Anyways, I can tell when I get hit with instant on my detector and the mountain boy hit me with it, so, radar detectors don't make you invincible up there.
Well, most local cops run with the radar on and that’s why we can pick them up with our radar detectors. Those systems take a few seconds to boot up (the cops radar). The state police here in Va have the same radar, but it’s fitted with instant on. It allows them to keep their radar off, making them undetectable, and then flipping a switch (their system instantly boots up with KA band, being able to tag two cars at once) when they have you in their sights....IE, when it's too late. Much like being hit with laser. Anyways, I can tell when I get hit with instant on my detector and the mountain boy hit me with it, so, radar detectors don't make you invincible up there.
Last edited by 07rdsterGT; 05-11-2009 at 02:45 PM.
#222
Here, tirerack has alot of tech info.
Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
They actually go so far as to say certain brands of pads have dif. bedding procedures, but that's a little overkill if you ask me. Sure there's a big dif. between ceramic and metallic so I guess I can see why they have dif. bedding procedures.
Here's some more (no spaces in addy)
http://www.350z-t e c h .com/zwiki/Tutorial:Brake_Bedding
Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
They actually go so far as to say certain brands of pads have dif. bedding procedures, but that's a little overkill if you ask me. Sure there's a big dif. between ceramic and metallic so I guess I can see why they have dif. bedding procedures.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:
When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.
It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.
The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.
If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.
Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO Gran Turismo
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
KAZERA
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
POWER SLOT
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
SATISFIED
For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —
Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.
Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.
During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.
As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.
Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.
For all other Satisfied pads —
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.
It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.
The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.
If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.
Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO Gran Turismo
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
KAZERA
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
POWER SLOT
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
SATISFIED
For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —
Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.
Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.
During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.
As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.
Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.
For all other Satisfied pads —
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
Here's some more (no spaces in addy)
http://www.350z-t e c h .com/zwiki/Tutorial:Brake_Bedding
Last edited by 07rdsterGT; 05-11-2009 at 12:46 PM.
#223
^ Also keep in mind some cops use X-Band down there... super old school stuff that most of us disregard as static. So any type of *beep* from your detector usually means it's trouble.
#224
LMAO, i hear ya. Just quoting the article i read.
My main point was that according to what i read (I don't remember where, but it was a repuitable non-biased site otherwise i don't listen to internet crap) from "normal" driving to a complete stop, they are almost exactly the same. But as soon as you get "spirited" and yoru brakes stay hot, the Brembos showed to have significantly less brake fade when VS non-Brembo brakes.
This was 2003 Brembos VS 2003 OEM brakes (Which look like they belong on a Sentra)
Not sure about the 2006+. Which both got a surface area increase. And the non-Brembos got a second piston up front.
So IMO 2006+ Non-Brembos with quality brake pads, should be compareable to the older Style Brembos that came on the 2003-2005 Zs.
#225
Well, there’s a proper way to bed your pads and its basically just taking it easy for the first few hundred miles so they seat against the rotors really good. Then you can just let loose. If you just let loose out the gate you risk causing a glaze or just damaging them...especially slotted rotors.
Well, most local cops run with the radar on and that’s why we can pick them up with our radar detectors. Those systems take a few seconds to boot up (the cops radar). The state police here in Va have the same radar, but it’s fitted with instant on. It allows them to keep their radar off, making them undetectable, and then flipping a switch (their system instantly boots up with KA band, being able to tag two cars at once) when they have you in their sights....IE, when it's too late. Much like being hit with laser. Anyways, I can tell when I get hit with instant on my detector and the mountain boy hit me with it, so, radar detectors don't make you invincible up there.
Well, most local cops run with the radar on and that’s why we can pick them up with our radar detectors. Those systems take a few seconds to boot up (the cops radar). The state police here in Va have the same radar, but it’s fitted with instant on. It allows them to keep their radar off, making them undetectable, and then flipping a switch (their system instantly boots up with KA band, being able to tag two cars at once) when they have you in their sights....IE, when it's too late. Much like being hit with laser. Anyways, I can tell when I get hit with instant on my detector and the mountain boy hit me with it, so, radar detectors don't make you invincible up there.
I will have to stop driving so care free....
Thank for the info
#226
Hey guys,
Good to meet you'all. I was the one having a more sedate cruise at the back! Although, on the way home was another matter. Had the roads pretty much to myself - 211 FTW! Was chased by a woman in a Z4 the whole way - too much fun.
Weather was perfect as well, could not have asked for a better day.
Will post up a few pics I took when I get 5.
Good to meet you'all. I was the one having a more sedate cruise at the back! Although, on the way home was another matter. Had the roads pretty much to myself - 211 FTW! Was chased by a woman in a Z4 the whole way - too much fun.
Weather was perfect as well, could not have asked for a better day.
Will post up a few pics I took when I get 5.
#227
Hey guys,
Good to meet you'all. I was the one having a more sedate cruise at the back! Although, on the way home was another matter. Had the roads pretty much to myself - 211 FTW! Was chased by a woman in a Z4 the whole way - too much fun.
Weather was perfect as well, could not have asked for a better day.
Will post up a few pics I took when I get 5.
Good to meet you'all. I was the one having a more sedate cruise at the back! Although, on the way home was another matter. Had the roads pretty much to myself - 211 FTW! Was chased by a woman in a Z4 the whole way - too much fun.
Weather was perfect as well, could not have asked for a better day.
Will post up a few pics I took when I get 5.
Sounds like a fun drive home.
Next time I go up i think i'll do the scenic route and just chillback a bit.
BTW whick car was yours??
#228
#229
Hey guys,
Good to meet you'all. I was the one having a more sedate cruise at the back! Although, on the way home was another matter. Had the roads pretty much to myself - 211 FTW! Was chased by a woman in a Z4 the whole way - too much fun.
Weather was perfect as well, could not have asked for a better day.
Will post up a few pics I took when I get 5.
Good to meet you'all. I was the one having a more sedate cruise at the back! Although, on the way home was another matter. Had the roads pretty much to myself - 211 FTW! Was chased by a woman in a Z4 the whole way - too much fun.
Weather was perfect as well, could not have asked for a better day.
Will post up a few pics I took when I get 5.
#230
I was the British guy with the stock silver Z.
Will be interesting to see how your car turns out - looks good so far. Your mates car was looking great too.
#231
Gotta say, your roadster is one of the nicest, cleanest I have seen. Great looking car and love the wheels man. (the white one right?)
I was driving the stock silver Z hanging at the back.
That was my first time on the 211. What a great road. This woman was right on my tail all through the corners, a really good driver. I let her pass later on and then tailed her. It was a lot of fun. I think it was a 3.0 Z4 so on the straights she was lagging but man in the corners she was all over me. I need to improve my driving skills!!
Then on the way home I blew passed a cop with a speed gun. But for some reason he did not follow. Maybe he was giving me a break.
#232
Thanks Yes the white one
211 is very fun.
State Police like to wait for someone doing 75+ out there on the highway (55 mph zones). They have a hard on for handing out reckless tickets, it's their money maker.
211 is very fun.
State Police like to wait for someone doing 75+ out there on the highway (55 mph zones). They have a hard on for handing out reckless tickets, it's their money maker.
#233
#234
Hey mate,
Gotta say, your roadster is one of the nicest, cleanest I have seen. Great looking car and love the wheels man. (the white one right?)
I was driving the stock silver Z hanging at the back.
That was my first time on the 211. What a great road. This woman was right on my tail all through the corners, a really good driver. I let her pass later on and then tailed her. It was a lot of fun. I think it was a 3.0 Z4 so on the straights she was lagging but man in the corners she was all over me. I need to improve my driving skills!!
Then on the way home I blew passed a cop with a speed gun. But for some reason he did not follow. Maybe he was giving me a break.
Gotta say, your roadster is one of the nicest, cleanest I have seen. Great looking car and love the wheels man. (the white one right?)
I was driving the stock silver Z hanging at the back.
That was my first time on the 211. What a great road. This woman was right on my tail all through the corners, a really good driver. I let her pass later on and then tailed her. It was a lot of fun. I think it was a 3.0 Z4 so on the straights she was lagging but man in the corners she was all over me. I need to improve my driving skills!!
Then on the way home I blew passed a cop with a speed gun. But for some reason he did not follow. Maybe he was giving me a break.
Now I'm really curious I want to try this 211, sounds fun.
But great thing the cop gave you a freebe
#235
The Aftermath
Having been my first time up in those mountains and the first time I really pushed the Z (more than just in a straight line), I have to say that drive is going to stick with me for a while. Thanks to everyone for making it soo enjoyable (especially the G-sedan that coordinated those little bursts through the mountains for the second half of the drive).
I haven't had time to post all the pics online, but I'll go ahead and drop a few of the better ones below:
I haven't had time to post all the pics online, but I'll go ahead and drop a few of the better ones below:
#236
#237
Having been my first time up in those mountains and the first time I really pushed the Z (more than just in a straight line), I have to say that drive is going to stick with me for a while. Thanks to everyone for making it soo enjoyable (especially the G-sedan that coordinated those little bursts through the mountains for the second half of the drive).
I haven't had time to post all the pics online, but I'll go ahead and drop a few of the better ones below:
I haven't had time to post all the pics online, but I'll go ahead and drop a few of the better ones below: