Cams
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,311
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From: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
^ just read your other thread, i have no idea what quality of welds you are talking about...sorry.
Did you look at other member's crawford headers?
Edit: Here is few of pictures i found ( USED condition )
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/384...d-headers.html
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/351...et-coated.html
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/316...ot-coated.html
Hope this pictures help brother.
Did you look at other member's crawford headers?
Edit: Here is few of pictures i found ( USED condition )
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/384...d-headers.html
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/351...et-coated.html
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/316...ot-coated.html
Hope this pictures help brother.
Last edited by Chef-J; Oct 10, 2008 at 09:47 PM.
Anyone that has done cams and stiffer springs… did you notice more pronounced valve tap?... Mine is louder than previous – not extremely obtrusive, but much more noticeable than ever before.
Install shop checked valve lash and replaced 2 buckets – everything is in spec… I tried calling JWT but my specific question needs to be answered by Jim, so I won’t know till next week… in the mean time I though I would ask here. Sorry, I don’t have a sound clip, but will try to post one up this weekend.
Anyone have experience with this?
Install shop checked valve lash and replaced 2 buckets – everything is in spec… I tried calling JWT but my specific question needs to be answered by Jim, so I won’t know till next week… in the mean time I though I would ask here. Sorry, I don’t have a sound clip, but will try to post one up this weekend.
Anyone have experience with this?
I cant see how going from a cold weight of 5 to a cold weight of 10 is going to make any difference unless the issue is only evident when you first start the car and the engine is stone cold. Might pay to try a different brand too - just experiment around with various weights and brands and see if you can minimize the issue
I'm going to try and capture the sound later today on vid - not sure how well I can reproduce it here, but I'll try.
I noticed 0 noise difference in the valvetrain between my motor when it was stock and my built one..aside from the different exhaust note due to the cams. I have stock valves, stock lifters (I can't remember if we needed to change sizing on these at all), NISMO springs and the Tomei cams. But, every motor is different
just before reading your last post I remembered (or thought I did) that somewhere you posted using OEM springs... I was thinking that could be the difference here, that the stiffer (JWT) springs might be my issue...
But I guess it was an old thread, or someone else I was thinking of because you are using Nismo springs.
It hate being complacent about valve train noise - part of me want s to figure its fine, but more of me says it could be a problem... I don’t want to ignore and regret.
Considering you have stiffer (than OEM) springs and a more aggressive cam than me - with no tapping and no more noise than OEM... I'm even more concerned.
But I guess it was an old thread, or someone else I was thinking of because you are using Nismo springs.
It hate being complacent about valve train noise - part of me want s to figure its fine, but more of me says it could be a problem... I don’t want to ignore and regret.
Considering you have stiffer (than OEM) springs and a more aggressive cam than me - with no tapping and no more noise than OEM... I'm even more concerned.
like i said, start with the easy stuff first...try a different blend of oil/different viscosity and go from there
at least you're in Cali, so if need be maybe even one of the shops out there can look at it for you
you can see all my parts in the first post in my build thread (see sig.)
at least you're in Cali, so if need be maybe even one of the shops out there can look at it for you
you can see all my parts in the first post in my build thread (see sig.)
yeah, I guess I'll do an oil change or two and see if different oil helps... I've used the same oil before and never had the sound with OEM...
I just thought of something else though... I'm using a rev-up oil pump... I wonder if the oil pressure is low for some reason and not reaching the upper valvetrain - to my knowledge the non rev-up and rev-up are the same pressure and flow, just stronger crank shaft gear (whatever the center gear is called)... if this was the cause, I think I would have a low oil pressure light though... I have been getting CEL but it’s an O2 sensor issue...
Anyway, thanks for the responses Adam, I appreciate your time
I just thought of something else though... I'm using a rev-up oil pump... I wonder if the oil pressure is low for some reason and not reaching the upper valvetrain - to my knowledge the non rev-up and rev-up are the same pressure and flow, just stronger crank shaft gear (whatever the center gear is called)... if this was the cause, I think I would have a low oil pressure light though... I have been getting CEL but it’s an O2 sensor issue...
Anyway, thanks for the responses Adam, I appreciate your time
I don't know the differences of the revup to non revup pump in all honest (I use a revup one too) - no clue if one flows more than another
oil pressure is measured at the filter housing, so if pressure was low there, you would know if via the dash gauge right away...and your cams would sound like a rusty old machine, or a cat having its tail yanked
oil pressure is measured at the filter housing, so if pressure was low there, you would know if via the dash gauge right away...and your cams would sound like a rusty old machine, or a cat having its tail yanked
here are some sounds clips - cold start up isnt too bad (in fact nothing concerning at all... its after driving a while that it becomes concerning >
Cold start up - not very noticable:
After about 20 minutes of driving - taken against wall to hear it better:
More after 20 min driving - from engine compartment:
Cold start up - not very noticable:
After about 20 minutes of driving - taken against wall to hear it better:
More after 20 min driving - from engine compartment:
What sucks is that I took it back to TS 2 days after it was done with the concern... I asked for it to be heard and was told its no issue (without a listen
)
I recently thought of something and discussed with DaveO (he thinks this might be the problem too)…
The JWT S2 (cold) valve lash specs on the exhaust side are .010”-.013” (same as intake side which is same as OEM intake specs) - BUT OEM cold lash in the exhaust is .011”-.015”
If TS measured valve lash to OEM specs (which some other JWT cams use) – then I have .001-.002 inches loose on the exhaust valves, which might be what I’m hearing.
Anyone have a take on this?…
The JWT S2 (cold) valve lash specs on the exhaust side are .010”-.013” (same as intake side which is same as OEM intake specs) - BUT OEM cold lash in the exhaust is .011”-.015”
If TS measured valve lash to OEM specs (which some other JWT cams use) – then I have .001-.002 inches loose on the exhaust valves, which might be what I’m hearing.
Anyone have a take on this?…
KA24DE... thanks for the mention of upgraded oil pump... initially I figured it was added pressure or added volume (neither of which I need)... I have since found that the Rev-Up oil pumps center collar (whatever its called) that drives the pump from the crank shaft - is actually stronger than pre rev-up... the pump itself is virtually the same - just the assembly that the shaft runs through is stronger...
So I went ahead and ordered one.
FWIW, all I'm doing are mild cams (JWT S2) and Crawford headers and plan to rev to 7500... I'm using JWT valve springs, Rev-Up rod bolts and Rev-Up oil pump as precautions...
So thanks again for the suggestion (even though I was thinking it was for a different reason initially).
So I went ahead and ordered one.
FWIW, all I'm doing are mild cams (JWT S2) and Crawford headers and plan to rev to 7500... I'm using JWT valve springs, Rev-Up rod bolts and Rev-Up oil pump as precautions...
So thanks again for the suggestion (even though I was thinking it was for a different reason initially).
where did you order you oil pump and rod bolts from. Thanks
Just to be certain check it hot. Then let it cool down and check it again cold. I did a cylinder head on my tercel and one of the adjustments was .002" off hot but it measured at the looser end cold. Solid shim over bucket valvetrain is great when its setup but getting it there can be a pita.
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