Should I go to a 1 step colder spark plug?
I planned for $4-5k I am at about $8k now... AFTER I get this thing tuned properly, I should be DONE!!! I just need to get it aligned, I installed my 06 headlights today and I do believe I am done modding my car until I find an LS2, lol
As far as the PCV system and vacuum at high rpms, remember at high rpms you are creating positive pressure by the gases blowing by the rings. The biggest problem with that pressure in the block is, its a force acting against the natrual rotation of the engine and thus slowing it down theoretically. Generally engines only create crank induced vacuum at idle or around about.
im over 10k right now, but that is counting every single expense so far associated with the engine, exh parts, trans parts, etc.
I can't say we started seeing pressure there, it was there all along, but it was then when we really paid attention to it. The tuner suggested a larger TB and better lower plenum. On the TB suggestion, I've not seen that mod mentioned enough so I'm assuming the time and money is best spent on the plenum.
As far as the PCV system and vacuum at high rpms, remember at high rpms you are creating positive pressure by the gases blowing by the rings. The biggest problem with that pressure in the block is, its a force acting against the natrual rotation of the engine and thus slowing it down theoretically. Generally engines only create crank induced vacuum at idle or around about.
As far as the PCV system and vacuum at high rpms, remember at high rpms you are creating positive pressure by the gases blowing by the rings. The biggest problem with that pressure in the block is, its a force acting against the natrual rotation of the engine and thus slowing it down theoretically. Generally engines only create crank induced vacuum at idle or around about.
ok, where are my errors in that logic?
where would a good place be for a belt though? what if you wired an electric on to the alternator somehow so as the alternator puts out more voltage, then the electric pump would work better?
sometimes i struggle with the pcv concept, but as i have it in my head, there is blowby that creates pressure in the crankcase, then you want engine vacuum to pull that pressure out, correct me if im wrong. but, when blowby is at its worst at high rpm, normally there is little vacuum to pull it out, which creates a problem. so the only solution i see is some sort of electric pump running all the time, which would keep the blowby in check at high rpm as well as promote ring seal.
ok, where are my errors in that logic?
ok, where are my errors in that logic?
, but I was refering to a vacuum in the intake plenum. And I can't think of a way to move enough air through the PCV system to create a vacuum in the intake. The vacuum in the intake manifold comes from the engine "asking" or sucking in more air than the intake can move.
Also, our PCV system is not top notch, but it is far from requiring that much help in this form. I would believe there are some horses to be unlocked by using a pulley or electric system, but you would probably have to address the the crank/oil relationship. Maybe a dry sump option with great venting and a vastly increased rev limit would make it worthwhile but at that point your somewhere north of an additional $2500.
Sounds accurate , but I was refering to a vacuum in the intake plenum. And I can't think of a way to move enough air through the PCV system to create a vacuum in the intake. The vacuum in the intake manifold comes from the engine "asking" or sucking in more air than the intake can move.
, but I was refering to a vacuum in the intake plenum. And I can't think of a way to move enough air through the PCV system to create a vacuum in the intake. The vacuum in the intake manifold comes from the engine "asking" or sucking in more air than the intake can move.
Also, our PCV system is not top notch, but it is far from requiring that much help in this form. I would believe there are some horses to be unlocked by using a pulley or electric system, but you would probably have to address the the crank/oil relationship. Maybe a dry sump option with great venting and a vastly increased rev limit would make it worthwhile but at that point your somewhere north of an additional $2500.
I can agree with that, but the performance loss is minimal and a working system.
In the manifold, ideally you want that pressure as close to zero as possible but -.05 psi is not that bad.
In the engine's crankcase it would be nice to have zero pressure but it will likely have a little positive pressure which is ok, as long as its not a lot. If your getting alot of pressure your likely having another internal problem.
In the engine's crankcase it would be nice to have zero pressure but it will likely have a little positive pressure which is ok, as long as its not a lot. If your getting alot of pressure your likely having another internal problem.