ah shoot, im sorry man. i can start a new thread. it did get way off topic and that is prob mostly my fault, sorry

 

Sure, here is a page with a link to a couple of different meters as well they give a brief overview of what engines normally push.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/engine_blowby.htm

 

Oh yeah, sorry for the thread jack. BTW I've used 1 step colder plugs and aside from what seemed to be lower performance (idle and drivability issues attributed to fouling), I had to take them out due to random misfires. After that, random misfires ended.

 

ive had 1 step colder in for a while, but only because i have a 100 shot on the car

 

I don't care, this thread was dead and got some good info about stuff out there

 

im on oem plugs. i wouldnt much worry bout running anything else unless you're boosted. unless you care to do a dyno with the factory plugs then with colder plugs to see if there is a difference in power.

 

Don't forget the when you run a step cooler your actually turning the "punch" of the plug down (a tradeoff for cooler temps) so the only way you will likely see higher figures is if the old plugs are bad or detonating.

 

so colder plugs are supposed to run cooler? i never really understood how that worked

 

Quoted from Car Craft Magazine.

Heat Range

Controlling the operating temperature of the plugs firing tip is the single most important factor in spark plug design. Heat range is the relative temperature of the spark plug's core nose, and it is determined by the length and diameter of the insulator tip, as well as the ability of the plug to transfer heat into the cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion-chamber or cylinder-head temperatures are relatively high. A hot plug has a slower heat transfer rate and is used to avoid fouling under relatively low chamber or head temperatures. Whats confusing is that a hotter (higher performance level) engine requires a colder plug because more power equals higher cylinder temperatures.


Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...#ixzz1Ujouf0CY



A cold plug (right) has a shorter insulator tip that helps prevent tip overheating and pre-ignition in high-speed engines. A hot plug (left) has a long insulator tip; it holds more heat and tends to burn off deposits.

Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...#ixzz1UjpsoXQI

What's not mentioned here is the fact if the colder plug is too cold its more likely to foul under low demand type situations/use.

 

to help prevent detonation

 

ok, maybe i should have been running 2 steps colder. i had pretty bad preignition problems. to the point of melting plugs and the insulators breaking off in the combustion chamber.

 

i would think just 1 step colder would be good for you since you're spraying. and its all in your tune too

 

yea, but pulled timing and didnt help, was crazy rich, still melting plugs, should have tried 2 steps colder, who knows

 

Now that's a time when you want to experiment with colder plugs. Melted electrodes are normally the first step to letting you know your too hot. Almost completely attributed to the NOS (but could be from trying to get too much from a particular setup as well).

 

stock heat range for the OP's setup

 

it was def 100% from the nit, car ran just fine without spray

 

I am running stock heat range, this post is kinda old, haha I have 2500+ miles on the motor already