Stage 2 Cams for N/A question
Those cams should be netting you a considerable amount more than what you've got - your headers are your main issue, and are ultimately choking where those cams would be happiest. This is most of the reason why your car is running out of steam so early in the rpm range
I agree on the manifold design, I am really tempted to try something if I can get a good design idea together and build up some funds, but I need to modify the valve covers to move the oil filler so it could happen
Last edited by Classy; Sep 22, 2011 at 05:55 PM.
don't even think you would have to drop the money for either to net an improvement, but I know what you mean...at a certain point it always comes down to $$ when you're doing any major project
Yup, piston 6 gave up and decided to build instead of trying a junk yard motor, I can't say I regret it at all, I love how the car drives now. But it was a much longer and more expensive road to follow. Also, at this point, (and something I noticed in your thread) you start spending ALOT of $$ for small HP.
My manifold idea is to move the oil filler to the other valve cover, and make a almost kintex ish manifold but with much better execution. Instead of the log being on the passenger side, it would be on the driver side. It would be a single log manifold sloping from the tail to a large front with a 90mm throttle body facing right at where the stock airbox goes, and in a relatively short pipe have a maf and then the air filter. No more weird neck at the back, a bigger TB, a really short intake and a properly designed log. But the money to make this and to find all the problems, remake/fix the problems, make the valve covers work. Alot of work, haha
My manifold idea is to move the oil filler to the other valve cover, and make a almost kintex ish manifold but with much better execution. Instead of the log being on the passenger side, it would be on the driver side. It would be a single log manifold sloping from the tail to a large front with a 90mm throttle body facing right at where the stock airbox goes, and in a relatively short pipe have a maf and then the air filter. No more weird neck at the back, a bigger TB, a really short intake and a properly designed log. But the money to make this and to find all the problems, remake/fix the problems, make the valve covers work. Alot of work, haha
I'd highly suggest picking up a book about engine dynamics, and reading up on how cams interact with the other aspects of the engine. It should help you really narrow your choices and hone in on what is/is not important.
You don't pick a cam by advertised duration - it really means next to nothing. There are countless examples out there that prove this. You can easily have a 260 degree cam that SMOKES one with a 272 duration.
Neither of the JWT cams you've posted will work with stock pistons.
Which would I suggest for stock, non revup pistons? Tough choice - here's why. Power on these engines is made 1 of 2 ways. Rev it (and have the parts to support those rpm's), or stroke it. Anything short of that, and you're wasting your time (IMHO). So it comes down to cams that are going to maximize the mid range because that's really all you have to work with. Which the correct choice is, again, depends on your intake manifold choice (in this case, a simple spacer will be just fine, nothing else needed and nothing exotic is required), and your header choice will mean everything.
'Aggressive' cams, however you choose to describe aggressive, are not at all what you should be looking at, because you've got nothing to support their use
You don't pick a cam by advertised duration - it really means next to nothing. There are countless examples out there that prove this. You can easily have a 260 degree cam that SMOKES one with a 272 duration.
Neither of the JWT cams you've posted will work with stock pistons.
Which would I suggest for stock, non revup pistons? Tough choice - here's why. Power on these engines is made 1 of 2 ways. Rev it (and have the parts to support those rpm's), or stroke it. Anything short of that, and you're wasting your time (IMHO). So it comes down to cams that are going to maximize the mid range because that's really all you have to work with. Which the correct choice is, again, depends on your intake manifold choice (in this case, a simple spacer will be just fine, nothing else needed and nothing exotic is required), and your header choice will mean everything.
'Aggressive' cams, however you choose to describe aggressive, are not at all what you should be looking at, because you've got nothing to support their use
Got any good books about the subject you like or have read any you think would be helpful? Looking on Amazon right now
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All my notes show max lift on a stock piston is 11.3mm and that even is not leaving much margin for error
He also mentioned that to fully utilize the c8 cams, however, just as adam said, it requires a pair of good open flows headers such as SG with no CAT. Other than that, I should just stick with C2.
not sure, I am not really familiar with their cams, only have the notes I've taken over the years to go by
any cam is only as good as the header it's asked to pump through...the two of them go hand in hand, sorta like a guitar and an amp
any cam is only as good as the header it's asked to pump through...the two of them go hand in hand, sorta like a guitar and an amp
been meaning to get this one: http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Airflow...806750&sr=1-11
Im looking to add cams (most likely JWT based on Sg results) to my car has breather mods/md plenum spacer/hfc's/exhaust/uprev. Would I still require headers to pair with the cams? Or would I still net roughly same gains with current mods?
A set of cams or a header or any other singular component is one piece of a puzzle.
Well, it would be the only piece i would do for now. I understand there are other components that would add to the gains.
These cam manufacturers quote hp figures ussually min 15hp on other wise stock cars. Mine has a few intake/exhaust mods and a tunable system. My thinking is I should squeeze out about 20whp additional which considering I have a non-rev DE would be good in my eyes.
Is that not feasible?
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question
To be honest, for a non-rev, it is REALLY hard to push past 7k rpm making power. My dyno sheet shows me running out of power at about 6800, BUT I don't lose many HP to my 7k red line, I am currently running JWT C8's
To be honest, I doubt I made 1 hp from the internals... I really don't see you having a problem running bigger cams on stock internals.
Something I will say, my C8's suck in low RPM, but scream at mid and up top. Just alittle FYI
To be honest, I doubt I made 1 hp from the internals... I really don't see you having a problem running bigger cams on stock internals.
Something I will say, my C8's suck in low RPM, but scream at mid and up top. Just alittle FYI
