Yes definitely: spacer, headers, catback exhaust + Osiris tune will get you to 280+

 

Again thanks everyone for your help!

1.Ok here it is - http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3942 , will this be enough for in-take? Do i need some heat shield? I hear that its big problem cause of high temperature...
2. 350Z 5/16" Motordyne Iso Thermal plenum spacer is better then just Motordyne 5/16" Basic Plenum Spacer? What is the difference?

 

Yeah that intake should do you good, I don't have a heat shield and it does just fine cause its pretty much lined up with the stock air box's hole in the bumper thing ( can't think of what its called atm, I just woke up so forgive me)

And the ISO thermal is better if you plan to track it since it won't have problems with heat soak, but under spirited driving, or 1-2 track days a year the normal one will be plenty, I just have the normal one and I have absolutely no problems, and it gets pretty hot here in Florida in the summer

 

No hood modification needed for 1/2" spacer, just lose strut bar.

 

But if you get a hood that will clear it you can keep the strut bar trust me this car feels loose in the front without it (i took it off during my spacer install and it was rubbing when I put it back on, thought it was a different problem but took it off and drove to see if it solved it which it did, but it was kinda sloppy without that brace)

 

Have you installed a 1/2" spacer under your plenum...?

I'll answer it for you, because I know you haven't. The reason the 5/16" spacer fits is because when you tighten the strut bar to the appropriate tightness, the flex in bar clears the plenum. It is impossible to install the strut bar with the 1/2" spacer. Per motordyne, "The 1/2" plenum spacer is fully compatible with the engine cover but is too large to fit the stock strut bar"

Hood clearance comes in play when you've got a setup like mine. 1/2" spacer AND kinetix V+ plenum. I've had to cut out sections of my hood skeleton supports to clear the plenum, and I also have spacers on the mounting bolts for added height. I'm sure there might be some cutting for 5/16" w/kinetix V+, but definitely not as much.

And it's hard for me to trust your judgement about the car feeling "sloppy" in the front end. My Z handles fine and doesn't feel sloppy...you should let the air out of your front tires so they flatten out more to have better contact with the road. Did it all the time in my jeep when I used to go crawling, so it's the same principle.

 

With the spacers under the mounting bolts you should be able to get clearance with the stock bar, if not you can always get a more adjustable aftermarket one. The problem is if you get the bar to clear the spacer it won't clear the hood.

And my tires run about 32-34 psi hot. I like them with more pressure because you feel more wobble as if they are flat. And when I ran it without the strut bar the only variable was the strut bar being on or off, everything else was a constant. I had my z for about 6 months before ever driving with it off, trust me, I could tell the difference on a curvy road near the house I lived in. When I took it off I went there and I could feel more body roll through the corners, it was a crazy amount but it was still fairly noticeable.

And to say that its not possible is absurd, a strut bar is specifically meant to lessen body roll and absorb more force from corners etc to keep the car from flexing aka body roll. It acts almost the same as a sway bar would. So of course the car would feel more sloppy in corners without a strut bar.

I feel as if your just trying to be an @** to me right now and trying to discredit what I'm saying, there's no reason to be like that bro, calm down, stop being so rude for no reason..

Sure, lower pressure can give you better traction but it won't make up for the added flex that your car will receive in corners.

 

Body roll and chassis flex are very different.

How much flex difference between running and not running a strut bar, I personally don't know. Ido know they can make a feelable difference on some cars

 

Sure they are different but they go hand in hand, without one you wouldn't have the other, you wouldn't feel either one driving in a straight line you may get a type of flex from accelerating hard in a straight line but not the type I am reffering to. You will get body roll from traction issues, gravity and from flex. Either way you will have some body roll with or w/o a strut bar all I'm saying is with a strut bar it will improve the handling.
From my experience w/o a strut bar it was definitely a bit sloppy compared to having a strut bar.
Everyone may not agree but that is my opinion from my experience

 

What your talking about is also called a shock tower brace in other circles, and has been discussed to death on cornercarvers.com. The general consensus there is, that strut/shock tower braces are just not needed.

Cornercarvers are VERY **** about posting, but there are people there who do know their stuff. [I don't think CC is taking any new memberships, but there is some good reading there if you want to go fast around corners]

Here is the tread if you want to take a long time to read it.......

http://forums.corner-carvers.com/sho...ck+tower+brace

 

Hey again everyone!

Now i'm focused on making 300 whp on my Z.

Can anyone give any good spec list for it (In view of what has already been installed on my car).

Thank you!

 

You need a larger MAF and a better intake manifold to support those cams. The stock manifold isn't going to do much.

Also: Rev it higher. 264 duration cams usually have an effective powerband up to 7500 RPM or more depending on the manifold you get.

Make sure you have test pipes + exhaust as a minimum to support the larger airflow increase.

 

Kinetix velocity intake manifold
3.5" MAF/intake tube

Read my above post as well.

cheers.

 

Uprev to config it all?
Can uprev high rev limit?
Which intake tube will be best for me?