Increasing redline on VQ35DE for NA build
I'm going to be starting on an NA build for my 350z (VQ35DE). One of the things I want to accomplish is increasing the relatively low redline. I know I can easily get over 7,000rpm with the build I'm doing, but I'd like to know how much higher I can safely go. Just looking for input, hopefully some people have experience with higher revving engine builds. I figure the HRs can rev to 7,500 stock and the DE is capable of revving to 7,200 with just a little tuning. So, can I safely reach 8,000 rpm with the following modifications?
Wiseco 11.0 to 1 compression pistons
Eagle H-beam connecting rods (rated to 600hp)
Rev-up oil pump upgrade
High capacity oil pan
Light weight pulleys
Light weight flywheel (15lbs; 50% of stock weight)
Shorty headers, test pipes, & single exit exhaust
JWT C8 cams (272 duration; 12.01mm lift)
Valve springs and retainers, valve guides
Ported lower intake manifold
Ported cylinder heads
440cc fuel injectors
Solid motor mounts
Upgraded radiator and fan shroud
Already have all other typical bolt ons.
I figure I can at least hit 7,500rpm after all this, but I'd like to get more if I can. Should I increase the redline even further, and if so, how much?
Wiseco 11.0 to 1 compression pistons
Eagle H-beam connecting rods (rated to 600hp)
Rev-up oil pump upgrade
High capacity oil pan
Light weight pulleys
Light weight flywheel (15lbs; 50% of stock weight)
Shorty headers, test pipes, & single exit exhaust
JWT C8 cams (272 duration; 12.01mm lift)
Valve springs and retainers, valve guides
Ported lower intake manifold
Ported cylinder heads
440cc fuel injectors
Solid motor mounts
Upgraded radiator and fan shroud
Already have all other typical bolt ons.
I figure I can at least hit 7,500rpm after all this, but I'd like to get more if I can. Should I increase the redline even further, and if so, how much?
The bigger question is will it make power in the upper rpms? I wouldn't use the revup oil pump for that high of a RPM, it's also pointless if you don't have ITBs or a custom manifold, the lower isn't a problem.
I'm figuring with the increase in air flow capacity and fuel capacity, I should be able to make power at the higher rpms. I'm just not sure exactly how high up that will be the case. With these mods, I would be shocked if I couldn't make power at 7,500 rpm at least. The stock cams are a bit of a limiting factor for making power at the top of the range from what I've heard. And if the rev up pump won't hold up to higher rpms, what alternative might you suggest?
The issue is the manifold (upper) IS the restriction, familiarize yourself with Sasha's car and what he went through, there are multiple videos and articles online about it. Just in case you aren't familiar, he had a custom upper with a 90mm TB and he gained like 30whp by lifting the manifold, IT'S THAT RESTRICTED. That made him go to ITBs, there's a reason most tell you to go boosted, you will spend quite a bit of money just to maybe hit 300-310whp if you are lucky. As far as pump just look at companies selling billet gears and use that, only brand I know of from heart is suckerpunch.
What is your goal for the car, and what is your budget?
What is your goal for the car, and what is your budget?
What's $1000 for a NA build? Someone already mentioned ITBs which will be a must for more power up top so you're looking at another 3-4k for that, the built motor itself, and everything else that will be involved. Don't forget to get yourself a set of PPE long tubes while you're at it. This is all just for justification to rev higher as you'll want to be where your car makes the most power.
*also the Nismo is up to 8500*
If the price is starting to scare you just keep to your bolt on mods and be happy in the 6k range with your hp in the high 200's - lower 300's.
*also the Nismo is up to 8500*
If the price is starting to scare you just keep to your bolt on mods and be happy in the 6k range with your hp in the high 200's - lower 300's.
Last edited by ZMoneyPIT; Nov 7, 2020 at 04:51 AM.
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No, it wasn't the cost. It was the fact that the billet gears are cheaper and accomplish the same goal. The Jenvey kit is about $5k, but I get the point NA is expensive and not rewarding enough lol.
When pushing the rev limits lubrication is everything, with a NISMO pump that part of the system is guaranteed. Just because an aftermarket pump is 'billet' makes no difference unless it's been designed and tested using the correct procedures and standards.
I was thinking that the rev-up oil pump would be sufficient for my goals, but perhaps I should spring for the suckerpunch pump. It's a bit more money, but I'm looking for longevity. I drift the car, so I keep the rpms up in drift quite a bit and good lubrication goes a long way. So, that was a pretty good suggestion.
My thoughts exactly, Nismo doesn't actually make anything (this coming from a Nismo *****) but ultimately if you want reliable lubrication dry sump is king.
Also, after looking up Sasha's 350z everyone has been talking about, I wanted to clarify that I am not doing that kind of build. I'm not expecting to make 500hp with this build lol. I'm shooting for roughly 300-320hp. No stroker kit, no ITBs, no crazy ****. I'm having the motor rebuilt because it's just that time (160k and just starting to burn oil). I'm rebuilding it anyway, so I figured I'd do some improvement while the motor is open. Maybe I'll supercharge it in a few years, but I want the motor to be strong enough to handle whatever I throw at it basically. And revving a little higher is just one small part of this.
I wasn't referring to his current build BTW (if that's what you thought) more of his early pursuit of getting there. Lack of ITBs is gonna hurt high end, if you even remotely think you may supercharge I would suggest going with a milder cam and shoot for a redline of 7200-7500. I wouldn't touch the bottom manifold collector and maybe look into a Kinetix upper with a intake from admin.
Last edited by DarkZ03; Nov 8, 2020 at 04:15 PM.
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