here....I haven't seen pics of the collectors but I guarantee you they aren't as good as the 3 I mentioned.

 

yes but so can anything else, case being I don't need to look at mine but I can set it up to alert me if it gets too lean or rich. That's like boosting without a boost gauge, just not a good idea IMO.

 

I'll always agree with using the Velocity but in this case I think proper headers should come before dumping more money into the intake.

 

Conway is smarter than me and I will fully admit there isnt much I can find fault in his analysis and success with the kinetix velocity.

On paper the kinetix velocity is an overpriced, under-performing, run-of-the-mill intake - it may show gains on some setups depending on other mods and tuning…

Let me find one and I will do a side by side comparison - I’ve got a g35 build right around the corner and I am doing a rebuild on the FI white z. If I can find a way to measure airflow I’ll fab up a manifold.

I think if you’re gonna start getting into the modification game, just go single turbo. You can get a new turbo kit for $4k to $5k and you’ll add 100 to 150 ft-lbs of torque and nearly double your horsepower, all while maintaining ‘most’ of the OEM reliability and your car will absolutely scream.

 

I can't argue with anything you said, but comparing the Velocity to a MREV2 + spacer it's almost the same price and the Kinetix IS superior to that setup, I'd say both are overpriced if I'm honest.
the turbo thing is entirely valid but there are some of us that don't want turbos or FI for that matter, to those of us, we have to do what we can to get that power, even if it means spending money on stuff that "doesn't make sense"

 

Let me get my hands on a Velocity or maybe Conway will let me borrow his and lets get some hard numbers! I have an idea…

I’m endoctrinated into the brotherhood of turbos and the grey Q40, which I just got up and going is NA (and will likely be NA for a little while) and its fun to drive NA - I have no complaints!

 

Nice, it's not a terrible design it can be improved for sure.
My initial intention was to have someone clone it but with a wider throat and plenum and have some proper bellmouths in there, but no point now as I don't intend on staying NA forever.

 

@DarkZ03 @dnash
Here is my new Log. Intake cam data should be on the far right of the PDF
2nd gear 2500-redline (about 7,200) full throttle

 

When you are ready let me know, I will ship it out to you.

 

I checked over your log. From 3300rpm and on, your cam timing is turned off or not working. I am not familiar with the Uprev software, is it possible to turn off cam control for whatever reason? Could you grab a screenshot of your cam control table?

 

double post

 

I tried looking in my uprev software but I’m not sure I can/don’t know how to pull up any sort of cam table or cam phasing table.

Also could you please explain to me what it means if my cam timing is turned off/not working after 3,300rpm, and if that is good or bad or causing any issues?

 

Basically, it’s the reason you aren’t making any torque. You should be hitting close to 40 degrees from around 2000-4500 then taper to 0 by redline. You really need a dyno to get it set up right though as you will likely have a much different ignition timing map as well.

 

This a little graph from Nismo showing how the cam control map should look with their 55 degree pulleys.

Nissan gave the Vq35de variable cam timing to broaden and flatten the torque curve. It is pretty common on modern engines and often even more complex.

 

So this is likely a tune issue rather than anything mechanical?

 

I would check first with your tuner and see if they made any changes.

 

check with your tuner but he likely is using the variable valve timing map that comes default in Uprev.

If you are not getting movement on your variable valve timing it is mechanical.

The mechanism that controls variable valve timing is both electrical and oil pressure driven.

I would confirm with uprev which bank is not functioning …

if both banks are dysfunctional than I would look at oil pressure in general.

if you can narrow it down to which bank is not responding than I would think electrical and then mechanical.

There are two solenoids on top of the timing chain case (towards the front of the engine - one on each bank) that control the amount of pressurize oil that activates the cog gear that add/deducts timing (based on the variable valve timing map).

This gets rather complicated and a novice mechanic can work their way through it but you have to be careful. If this is above your paygrade than stop and take it to a specialist.

1. Be sure the harness are connected / clipped into the solenoid and ensure the wires are not damaged … in my tenure with my z, I have probably replaced them twice becase the wire gets damaged.

2. Be sure the sub-harness that has either connector is connected to the main harness (this isnt likely, but check).

3. You can remove the solenoid by removing the three 10mm bolts on the top. Be careful not to lose the gasket that is between the solenoid and the timing chain case. Use care to remove the wire connector. You can clean out the oil passages with brake cleaner and you can put 12volts (from a low/medium current source) and verify the solenoid is moving. Be sure to re-install the gasket in the correct orientation and do not over-tighten the three 10mm bolts, they only take 30 to 40 inch-lbs of torque - check the factory service manual for the exact torque spec.

This is probably a little above the average ability,
4.but you can remove the VTC cover and inspect the gaskets that feed oil to the VTC cog gear.

5. You can remove the timing chain cover and remove the vtc cog gears, disassemble and clean, and clean the tiny filter inside the gear. Further verify that they rotate freely. This requires quite a bit of work and I would not do this unless you are absolutely sure there is nothing else wrong with the car.

I ran into some VTC issues a while back and it turned out to be sensors …

See post #1174 on page 24 of my build … that’s how the VTC ‘should’ work…
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...-build-24.html

I’ll ask the dumb question - but have you replaced your cam shaft and crank shaft position sensors? You may want to replace the three of them and see if your issue goes away … this very well could be your problems and I dont think anyone asked if you had replaced them yet.

You want only OEM nissan or Hitachi brand - this is hard & fast, do not put anything but Nissan OEM or Hitachi brand … store brands will last a few weeks and crap out.

 

So would you guess my lack of torque is primarily likely due to this sort of error rather than my ported intake manifolds? And my oil pressure seems high and usually very good, based on the factory gauge.

 

From the sounds of it, it very well could be related to your VTC not working …

Replace the camshaft (two each) and crank shaft position sensors as recommendded above and see where you land…

 

Well that’s unfortunate… the engine is freshly rebuilt and those JWT 272 cams are brand new. The engine rebuild only has 3400 miles on it