Does anyone know how to remove the shifter **** on the Z properly? And does anyone know how to remove the aluminum door sills properly? Please help ! THANKS

 

The door sills should easily pop out.
I had to replace mine, and was able to easily pop it out because they snap into place.

 

Stock Shift **** Removal and Replacement

Removing the stock shift **** is not difficult, but certain precautions must be taken to prevent damaging both interior trim pieces and the shift mechanism of the transmission.

Tools and other items needed:

A medium sized flat-head screwdriver
Electrical tape
A 6" piece of radiator hose or other heavy rubber tubing.
One pair of channel-locks
One pair of vice-grips

The procedure:

1. Wrap the tip of your screwdriver in a small piece of electrical tape to prevent it from marring the interior trim piece.
2. Insert the screwdriver tip under the boot finisher at the rear and pry up the finisher. There are several clips holding this piece on that will take a fair amount of force to pop loose.
3. Once the finisher is free of the retaining clips, disconnect the white ribbon cable for the climate control *****. Pull on the connector, not the cable.
4. The finisher will still be attached to the shifter-shaft by the shift boot at this point. It's helpful to have a second person that can hold the finisher up while rotating the *****, but it's not necessary.
5. Cut the radiator tubing into two 3 inch lengths and slice each one lengthwise down one side.
6. Place one piece of radiator tubing around the metal shifter-shaft underneath the finisher. Be careful not to pinch the boot or tear the white filler-pad sitting on the top of the transmission.
7. Clamp the vice-grips onto the radiator tubing covering the shifter-shaft as tightly as you can. It is important that you get this tight enough so that you can use the vice-grips to provide counter torque when twisting the **** off and the shaft doesn't turn inside the rubber tubing.
8. Take the other piece of tubing and place it around the base of the stock shift ****.
9. Place the channel-locks on the radiator tubing covering the stock shift **** and turn the **** counter-clockwise while applying counter-torque to the vice-grips. The goal is to prevent the counter-clockwise torque from being transferred into the shifter assembly, as this can damage the transmission. If the vice grips slip on the shaft, set the grip tighter. You will not hurt the shifter-shaft by doing so. The boot and finisher will turn initially until the **** is backed off a turn or two. Ensure that the boot does not twist or tear away from the ring under the shift boot.
10. Once the shifter is loose enough to turn by hand, remove the **** and the brass-ring underneath it. This ring is not needed on the new shift-****, and if you are using a Nismo variant, the ring will actually rattle if you keep it in place because the new **** does not seat against the ring.
11. Once the stock **** is removed, clean up the threads of the shifter shaft and install the new **** onto the shaft. If the new **** came with a rubber finisher, this finisher goes above the boot to cover the metal ring that holds the boot leather in place. Most aftermarket shifters have a nylon insert that you will thread onto the shifter shaft. This might take some force the further you get it threaded onto the shaft.
12. Tighten the shift **** down so that it's tight against the boot ring (or rubber finisher, if equipped) while holding the vice-grips to prevent torque from being applied to the shifter assembly. If equipped with rubber finisher, do not tighten the **** to the point that it distorts the finishers shape. Hold the shift-boot ring in place while tightening. When complete, remove the vice-grips.
13. Re-attach the white ribbon cable for the climate controls.
14. Snap the shift-boot finisher in place.

Enjoy!

 

nice instructions..

 

Gracias....wrote that about a year ago...It's in the "articles" forum of the premiere members section.

 

hey kcobean, thanks for the great instructions! i had a question about the TI nismo **** though. do you HAVE to use the rubber finisher it comes with? if i don't use it will the shift **** be able to reach the shift boot.... meaning will there be a gap if i thread the **** down as far as possible? TIA

 

I'm not sure if you HAVE to use the rubber finisher, but the "joint" between the shift **** and the top of the boot/metal ring will look horrible if you don't. The finisher is designed to provide a "transition" from the boot to the ****. Also, if you compress the finisher just a little, the pressure it provides will help keep the shift **** from rotating over time.

 

cool, thanks for the reply