Skurrrrrrt skurt
Easiest...hmmmmm...
Supposedly theres a port a few inches up and to the right that is an oil passage and I attempted to feed my turbos off it but I since went back to the oil pressure sensor location.
If I was in your shoes, I'd add an oil filter sandwich plate and pull the trigger on an oil cooler - not required on a NA setup but having a oil cooling solution is cheap insurance.
you could also add a oil pan spacer - you'd increase your oil capacity and add a sensor there.
Supposedly theres a port a few inches up and to the right that is an oil passage and I attempted to feed my turbos off it but I since went back to the oil pressure sensor location.
If I was in your shoes, I'd add an oil filter sandwich plate and pull the trigger on an oil cooler - not required on a NA setup but having a oil cooling solution is cheap insurance.
you could also add a oil pan spacer - you'd increase your oil capacity and add a sensor there.
Last edited by bealljk; Jan 22, 2018 at 09:57 PM.
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Easiest...hmmmmm...
Supposedly theres a port a few inches up and to the right that is an oil passage and I attempted to feed my turbos off it but I since went back to the oil pressure sensor location.
If I was in your shoes, I'd add an oil filter sandwich plate and pull the trigger on an oil cooler - not required on a NA setup but having a oil cooling solution is cheap insurance.
you could also add a oil pan spacer - you'd increase your oil capacity and add a sensor there.
Supposedly theres a port a few inches up and to the right that is an oil passage and I attempted to feed my turbos off it but I since went back to the oil pressure sensor location.
If I was in your shoes, I'd add an oil filter sandwich plate and pull the trigger on an oil cooler - not required on a NA setup but having a oil cooling solution is cheap insurance.
you could also add a oil pan spacer - you'd increase your oil capacity and add a sensor there.
fail fail fail. Welding the oilpan just cracked it more in different places. Time to replace. Shouldn't be too tough. My only worry is getting it back together and having it leak because i'm an idiot. Soooo i'll just use the new OE location haha.
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Upper oil pan ****ing sucks. Got everything disassembled but can’t seem to get the oil pan broken loose from the block. I’ll give it another go in the am.
On a other note..got some inspirational goodies in the mail today. BC Racing “ES” formally DR Coilovers. SPL Camber arms and toe rods, PBM in-line handbrake, adjustable wheel spacers and a shift ****.
On a other note..got some inspirational goodies in the mail today. BC Racing “ES” formally DR Coilovers. SPL Camber arms and toe rods, PBM in-line handbrake, adjustable wheel spacers and a shift ****.
Last edited by Kevin Skene; Jan 27, 2018 at 01:06 AM.
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Got everything assembled. Decided to let the RTV cure for its full 24 hours and then started it up...this happened......
Haha realized there were a few bungs on the old oil pan i hadn’t swapped over. Why would Nissan put a female port on the pan, then just close it up??
Got it closed up and she started!! In the first clip it died. Instantly cuz my MAF wasn’t plugged in
Haha realized there were a few bungs on the old oil pan i hadn’t swapped over. Why would Nissan put a female port on the pan, then just close it up??
Got it closed up and she started!! In the first clip it died. Instantly cuz my MAF wasn’t plugged in
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I think i just have to reset the ECU. Since last start i added a phlenum spacer, new intake, and in that clip it was just running headers -> open test pipes and nothing else.Power steering is leaking. Didn’t pay much attention when putting the hard lines back in. Will have to go back down on her. First time for everything
Last edited by Kevin Skene; Jan 29, 2018 at 01:52 PM.
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Get this. Changed out the oil pan, as seen in the video above. Still leaked.
The half moon seal that meets the block @ the transmission got pinched, so I had to do everything again.
One thing I learned that really helped out was that you don't have to remove the steering rack from the steering column, but if you just pop out the tie-rod on the passenger side, you'll have plenty of clearance.
What else went wrong?
Made an exhaust pipe for it (see attached). It's a megan racing non-resonated test pipe + a megan 2.5-3" Y pipe. I welded up some 3" all the way back and added brackets everywhere so it's strong.
Lemme tell you, way to ****ing loud.
But it runs.
Also, got rid of the sketchy 19s it had and put on a set of stock EVO X wheels. They're light and fit just right. I should have enough tires for a few track events!
The half moon seal that meets the block @ the transmission got pinched, so I had to do everything again.
One thing I learned that really helped out was that you don't have to remove the steering rack from the steering column, but if you just pop out the tie-rod on the passenger side, you'll have plenty of clearance.
What else went wrong?
Made an exhaust pipe for it (see attached). It's a megan racing non-resonated test pipe + a megan 2.5-3" Y pipe. I welded up some 3" all the way back and added brackets everywhere so it's strong.
Lemme tell you, way to ****ing loud.
But it runs.
Also, got rid of the sketchy 19s it had and put on a set of stock EVO X wheels. They're light and fit just right. I should have enough tires for a few track events!
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Last night I threw on my BC coils and SPL arms. I accidently picked up the traction arms instead of the toe arms, so can't get it aligned for a few days. Also mounted my NRG quick release and Sparco wheel. So stoked.
Can't believe how hard this car pulls compared to my stock BRZ. Broke the tires loose in 1st, 2nd and 3rd..crazy
Can't believe how hard this car pulls compared to my stock BRZ. Broke the tires loose in 1st, 2nd and 3rd..crazy
same 'toe arms' in the private classifieds??
https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/...-bay-area.html
Last edited by bealljk; Feb 12, 2018 at 01:35 PM.
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wait wait wait...
same 'toe arms' in the private classifieds??
https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/...-bay-area.html
same 'toe arms' in the private classifieds??
https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/...-bay-area.html
haha no, not the same ones. Toe Links are the ones that replace the bucket. It's a confusing design, but that' how it is.
I purchased them from a Z specialist shop and they gave me the traction bars and they weren't nearly long enough to replace the buckets.
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You could be right, i'm usually wrong the first few times i learn something. I was just referencing the suspension 101 page. Who knows. I'll find out tomorrow!