I have a 2003 350z. It does crank perfectly but does not turn over. A few things I have done. I have checked fuel pump and it is wroking fine. I installed a new battery yesterday. And yes I had the battery tested before I purchased it. I have checked and cleaned all ground wires and battery terminal wires. I habe read alot of posts here about the "NATS". But the 1 thing that keeps standing out is that the red light on the dash blinks only before I put the key in and when key is "acc" position. The red light does not turn on steady at all. It stops blinking when I start to crank engine. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Welcome- it helps to post a few more details. For example, when did you purchase this Z? When did this problem first occur? Is there any other history (mileage, service, etc.) that might provide any other clues? Have you tried pulling codes or using a spare key to start the car?

 

I have had the car for close to a year now. The previous owner did get in a accident with front end damaged. Air bags did deploy. There is no frame damage or any other damage that the dealership said before I purchased it. So repairs were made correctly after accident. Car is at 75k miles. I dont have a spare key for it. Engine light was turning on intermittently before. But every time I took it to get checked the engine light would turn off. So I was told there was no codes popping up. It was driving fine with no issues one day the next morning I went out to start it and it would just crank and crank and crank but would not start. Hope this helps.

 

If the car was in an accident severe enough to cause multiple airbags to deploy and the dealership sold it to you with a "clean bill of health" after the fact without a corroborating inspection from an outside party, then I hate to be the one to tell you this, but you've bought someone else's problem (as is often the case when you purchase a used car.)

I would recommend you tow the car to a qualified Nissan mechanic and have them do a full diagnostic and inspection. Without having the actual codes to use as a guide, and without being able to dig around in your vehicle, it's going to be impossible to give you a qualified answer over the internet.

It could be as simple as an intermittent short or failing sensor, it could be a failing mechanical component or it could be a result of damage incurred at the time of the accident.

 

I agree with Zackmartin on this one. Pay the diagnostic fee and get a factory trained tech with a CONSULT III to figure this one out! Get a spare key (and transponder chip) programmed for your car after they repair it.

 

I realize this is an afterthought, but you could try checking the appropriate fuses and relays.