So, I have been reading for a while in the N2O threads and here is what I ahve established so far....

Items that are a must include.
1. TPS
2. Cooler plugs
3. MSD Window Moduel
4. Bottle Heater

My questions are...
1. What exactly does the TPS do?
2. How amny stages cooler and... Im not new to N2O, I had it aon my old car... A 100 shot on a 4 cylender with all the proper fuel upgrades, but for some reason my plugs kepy fouling, will it do this on a 100 wet shot with all the things I have listed above on my car, and how do I prevent this?
3. Say I set it to only spray from 2600 to 7100 RPM's... Will it continue to spray when my foot is off the gas and the rpm's are still high eventhough im giving the car no gas whatsoever?
4. What happens if I do not get one and my pressure is not up to 900 or 1000? Will the N2O not even work? IF I do get one how long can I leave it on for and how can i tell my bottle pressure? Is there a gauge I can mount inside the car?

Thanks guys for any help...

 

TPS = Its a module that tells your nitrous system that your at WOT. With it, your system will only spray when it knows your flooring it and when u release off the gas, it will stop.

 

1. What exactly does the TPS do?

The TPS switch plugs into the Throttle Positioning sensor in your car's ECU. It gets wired inline to your nitrous setup and opens the circuit once the car is at wide open throttle and closes if not.
2. How amny stages cooler and... Im not new to N2O, I had it aon my old car... A 100 shot on a 4 cylender with all the proper fuel upgrades, but for some reason my plugs kepy fouling, will it do this on a 100 wet shot with all the things I have listed above on my car, and how do I prevent this?

In general the rule is 2 steps colder but for some reason the Z is cool with only 1 step colder. Now you need to make sure that you use either Irridium or Copper plugs. Platinum will melt and is a big no no. 100 wet shot is fine. You don't need any fuel system upgrades on that but I'd highly recommend to use 103 octane gas

3. Say I set it to only spray from 2600 to 7100 RPM's... Will it continue to spray when my foot is off the gas and the rpm's are still high eventhough im giving the car no gas whatsoever?

First of all you have to set the window above 3000 rpm and 200 rpm before the limiter otherwise you won't be happy walking home...if your limiter kicks in at 7100 then you need to set the shut off value to 6900.
The other part you describing is what the TPS switch is for.

4. What happens if I do not get one and my pressure is not up to 900 or 1000? Will the N2O not even work? IF I do get one how long can I leave it on for and how can i tell my bottle pressure? Is there a gauge I can mount inside the car?

You can get a Remote Bottle Pressure Gauge in addition to the one needed for the bottle. The heater is controlled via a pressure sensor that will up the heat below 1000 psi and shut it down at 1050 psi. You wanna spray at 1050 for best results (NX) below you will run rich and loose power, above you run lean and might get detonation.

I would highly recommend to get a complete NX kit plus the GenxII. Then the TPS, the window switch and the colder plugs that will get you going

Hope this helps

 

+1

Tom is on the nose on all points.

 

I'd recommend the Zex kit for no-brainer management... eliminated the TPS, as it is built in.

MSD digital window switch.

and the 860 performance "pressure regulated" bottle heater.

I've also got DynoTune's digital nitrous pressure gauge, which is pretty cool and eliminates the need to run hoses thru your gauges.

Cheers, Ted

 

Thanks you very much Tom. And i do think im going with Zex because it is such and easy kit, plus I have had good luck with Zex in the past.

2 more questions for ya Tom. Along with the remote bottle pressure gauge, can I mount the one inside the car where i can see it, like on a gauge pod so that i know exactl what PSI my bottle is running at? And you said the Z is cool with one stage cooler... what if I got 2 stages cooler? Would that help any, run the car better?

Ted - You setup sounds really nice, may I ask where you got all of it at? PM me please.

 

The remote pressure guage goes anywhere you want it, that way you can see exactly where you are in terms of pressure.
Getting 2 steps colder is safer and will avoid more chances of detonation. However when driving under NA conditions you might loose a bit of power. In my past experiences it wasn't bad though

 

how's it built in?

 

the Zex box comes with a built in TPS switch you just hook it up to the TPS on your ecu.
That's the one thing I like about the Zex kit, it's very easy to hook up and contained in a box

 

yeah, the shop i had my nx installed at on my civ did not give the install the tlc i would have liked. i think they could do a cleaner job with a zex kit.

 

here's what I had done by Street Image

[img]


and my hidden rapid fire purge (stem to be painted black soon)


Cheerss, Ted