Hey Guys! I am at the cross roads right now for engine work. I had a single turbo kit custom made and a shop ruined my car. Right now I need a new engine (built of course) and would get a new turbo kit since I dont want to represent the company. I have so many option in front of me right now.

-Go back to stock (yeah right)
-Stroker NA
-Stroker Nitrous
-Stroker Turbo
-Stroker SC
-Built Turbo
-Built SC
-Built Nitrous

Everyone talks about what compression nitrous should use. If I were to get the stroker they offer it in 8.5 or 11.5 (4.3L AEBS). What I am looking at is if I got the 8.5L I could get a direct port nitrous kit and make great power to keep me happy for a while and eventually go turbo if I want. What do you think?

This would have a full fuel system (already do) plus UTEC and progressive nitrous setup.

 

Is this racing only or daily driver or what?

I would think an 8.5:1 would cause NA power to suffer wouldn't it? Perhaps the increased displacement would make up for this, I'm not sure, just something to consider.

 

I would go NA Stroker if i wasn't already TT.

 

I have heard that the 11.5 makes about 400whp NA so i would think that it would make at least over stock if not more w/o nitrous. Plus I will have ported and polished heads and a better exhaust and intake manifold. Maybe even cams.

 

It will be a daily driver, but I will take it to the drag strip also. i would think that there would actually be close to 300 whp w/o nitrous.

 

s/c stroker, duh.. go with ATI kit..

 

why do you vote for the ATI

 

from the specs, out of the box, ATI has a much higher power potential. However, if u change out to T trim on vortech, they both have the same power level... i feel the ATI kit is more tuner than vortech, although both are capable with enough $$$. I remember the 350Z guy in kansas w/ a built motor he had like 575 whp on ATI. However, theres also a guy on the boards who has the vortech with around the same whp. (booger??)

im against the turbo setups cause a longer stroke with turbos is one of those breaking the rules of physics kinda things... too much torque too quick which means ur tending to breka thigns and loose traction...kill ur self ect.

With a stroker kit, NA or S/C would be best bet...but i'd go for S/C. I predict 700-800whp if u can get the fuel system and computer system to work. Pretty much limited at 750ish whp with the fuel systems out now.

 

dont bother with nitrous, its the most inconsistent form of power. there are way too many variables,

simply put, if you want big power, build it and turbo it, if you want constant power (there is no feeling like an built NA motor) remember you will only get a 3% increase in power for each compression point you raise it up, and the same goes for lowering it

i would suggest, aps TT kit, darton sleeves, extreme duty pistons for Forged Internals 9.0 to 1, a UTEC, any rods, i would suggest pauter

nitrous is a cheap way of making your car faster, you have to worry about heating the bottle, (sometimes takes 20 minutes) bottle pressure, having the bottle open, how cold it is outside, how hot it is outside, how much nitrous is left in the bottle,

it sounds to me like you have a good situation on your hands but you might want to do a little more homework

good luck

 

Their is a 8.5 liter stroker kit

 

Audible... Nitrous may be inconsistant at times (not very often IMO), but turbos are a headache IMO. Oil issues, overheating issues, idle issues, boost leakage, management issues (safe mode, etc), and tuning issues. Plus gas mileage suffers big time. Have had different FI setups on different imports. Nitrous was the cheapest, easiest to install, maintained gas mileage, no major tuning or back-to-the-shop problems, and easiest to uninstall when I want to sell the car. Please don't take offense. There are upsides to all FI setups, nitrous just happens to be my favorite.

I would go high compression and nitrous. I don't know if I'd stroke the motor. Lisa Kubo didn't seem to have a problem strokin her B16 and boostin the hell out of it. Nitrous would probably require a progressive controller on a stroked motor just so you don't shock the rods with a 150 instant HP. Anyhow, just my $.02

 

well, i understand what you are saying, but, i have had many nitrous cars, unless you ride around with your bottle warmer on full time and the bottle ready to open, you will be saying "damn i would have smoked that vette if my bottle pressure was right" i know, i have said it a few times myself. not that i am for street racing at all, but every once in a while on a deserted highway its fun to mess with some cars...

im sure you will have minor issues with anything you do. so just pick one

 

Thanks for all of the info. I am just doing my homework. lol

 

yes it includes a dodge viper motor with it!

 

if u have the option to build a beast N/A motor, go for it. Ultimate in reliabilty, cheapest cost, and if it can make 400whp, which seems like a stretch, just going by what Quamen said on that, i would do it. If thats still too slow, a little shot of juice with a good tune wont hurt! Cylinder pressures would be really high, but im sure it could be done!

 

Yea, I feel you. Been there on the civic when pressure was low.

 

its funny how a lot of us are honda guys (pre fast and the furious) all grown up and making more money....

 

Very true... I remeber the days of auto-x in my b16 swapped 89 prelude with 4WS. that was such a piece but a fun car too and i miss it...

But i went toyota & nissan before and after. 84 300ZX turbo, 91 MR2 turbo

 

yeah i had an all motor integra that i took the head off, had it milled, ported it myself, tighter valve springs, rev to 9000, ported the whole intake manifold just with that done with intake and exhaust running low 13s, but that was back in '96 it used to be fast.... hehehe

 

If you ran a nitrous car to the power of the built TT cars you would have the same headaches. Audible and I are old friends and we've both done tons of nitrous(I ran a 175 shot on a 1.6 SOHC Civic motor with only shotpeened stock rods) and he has done many of the same things. Jeremy, remember you convertible sub 2000lb Integra GSR? LOL. The overheating issues have nothing to do with boosted cars, it is a cylinder pressure issue. Open deck, tiny seal surface and high cylinder pressures isn't good for any cooling system. Our system also has to be modified for high horsepower applications(run a breather tank, cap off the stock radiator and bore out the thermostat or no thermostat) in order to cool it off no matter the way you got to those high cylinder pressures. The biggest problems to date with high horsepower VQ35 cars were two things; the ECU but now with the UTEC it's no problem because you control absolute timing and the sealing of the block and heads but Darton has made it much easier to remedy this situation. Stroking a motor is not bad at all for boost. Where did you get this info?(directed at the OP) One of the best upgrades for Poopras, er, I mean Supras is to stroke them and their stroke to bore is much higher than ours.