NEW *very* important info concerning UR Pullies and ZEX N20 (must read if you plan on
well $hit..... I wish you woulda said that's why you were selling MaxHax...
I sold the alt to someone here and he wants the other two pulley's I have emailed him about all this new stuff.
I have a new goal and I am not quite ready to give the details yet but it's gonna be intensive involve FI and headers so the pulley's are not a factor. ** Plus** my N20 just lower jetting and a window switch. Don't dicount these pulley's as a good motor mod just yet, that hasn't been determined we are talking N20!
I didn't just say these pulley's suck I am selling them ,they are good pulley's. And I manned up here to them being a culprit for the benefit of all. I still stand by my statement that they are good motor mod if you don't go N20 because that is all we have "confirmed."
I won't speak on FI because I don't have it, I can specualte as most here probably are but I won't I don't work that way.
This is what I would like to see done N74DV.
It would be time consuming but worth it and make a point to UR!
Get my alt pulley back from naioso or whatever (sorry tired again 315am here ) and send all 3 pulley's back to UR as DEFECTIVE and get my $350 or whatever it was back and pay you and the alt buyer back. It's the principle and their intergrity I want to test now, it's no longer about money with me.
Does UR have a 30 day guaranteeI haven't checked? They should read this thread though for sure!
That would take awhile and be a PITA but it would make a POINT!Otherwise the alt pulley buyer has offered to buy them in the F/S thread already and I think he should get first dibs, then again they are yours so you decide and let me know in the morning, I'm off to go hug sheets again. At least if he buys them he gets a 3 peice matching set!
Originally posted by elektrik_juggernaut
umm, are you sure it wasn't the big propeller on the end of the crank that snapped it?
umm, are you sure it wasn't the big propeller on the end of the crank that snapped it?
AN NTSB analysis of the crankshaft determined that because of the lack of HB the crank was introduced to the first and second harmonic frequencies... primarily the second harmonic which was at 3400 RPM. 3400 RPM is the take-off RPM... full power.
Over the course of approx 3 hours of continuous use at the second harmonic the crank finally had it and fractured.
It'a all in the NTSB report.
OK,
We have people's attention and I am getinng and making phone calls with my mechanic right now.
ZEX,
The N20 jet is too fat it's a 31! That's what Bottle Fed racing recommended. It should be a 26 or 27!
We are talking 4k over!!!
UR says the *very* small "ring" is for noise vibrations and doesn't effect anything else and will post Dyno's that show tremendous gains and they too point towards the fuel.
Switching to a 27 Fuel imnstead of 31 and doing a Dyno with A/F in 3 hours with both pulley's.
I want this issue settled for all of us!
Boith explanations explain why my motor runs are solid, 1.7 60 foot, 13.9 motor run, 132mph to work on motor etc but falling on it's face at 4k rpm's with N20.
To be continued after 130pm PST!
We have people's attention and I am getinng and making phone calls with my mechanic right now.
ZEX,
The N20 jet is too fat it's a 31! That's what Bottle Fed racing recommended. It should be a 26 or 27!
We are talking 4k over!!!
UR says the *very* small "ring" is for noise vibrations and doesn't effect anything else and will post Dyno's that show tremendous gains and they too point towards the fuel.
Switching to a 27 Fuel imnstead of 31 and doing a Dyno with A/F in 3 hours with both pulley's.
I want this issue settled for all of us!
Boith explanations explain why my motor runs are solid, 1.7 60 foot, 13.9 motor run, 132mph to work on motor etc but falling on it's face at 4k rpm's with N20.
To be continued after 130pm PST!
while I think that UR's explanation of the rubber ring is BS I'm open to being proved wrong...
I'd like to hear it from an authorized person though... someone in the Nissan arena.... Of course UR is going to defend their product....
Who can get some "real" answers regarding the stock crank pulley also serving as a mass tuned damper and not just a "accessory vibe isolator"
I'd like to hear it from an authorized person though... someone in the Nissan arena.... Of course UR is going to defend their product....
Who can get some "real" answers regarding the stock crank pulley also serving as a mass tuned damper and not just a "accessory vibe isolator"
Dyno with or without UR pulley's same thing.
Even in snd gear it's was just missing. 100 shot run in 4th was a jaggedy 219rwhp lol.
motor run was less than stock before upgrades at about 196.
Culprit?
The installer who did my ZEX Kit used the 2 degree off ZEX plugs (no problem there) except he put the n20 jet on the fuel side and vice versa when we upped the jets to 100 (same time pulley's were added.)
So.... The plugs are melted lol. All 6 of them.
Not one Nissan Dealer even carried the STOCK heat range plug!
Long story short is that my car is staying at the Dyno Shop over night (good people) and all 6 melted black plugs are pulled.
We spent 2 hours finding 2 degrees colder plugs and we have the jetting right and the UR pulley's back on.
So, tomorow morning will be tediuos but I am off.
Pick up the plugs at 9am, go way back out to my car in Orangevale.
Have new plugs installed then redyno.
Long story short, it was the plugs.
However we can't rule out pulley's either because we can't do a proper dyno with melted plug electrodes!
Back at it tomorow. This will prove it tomorow because we went and bought the right jets and I always wondered if the installer for ZEX bothered to change my plugs and now I know hee did so that won't be stuck in the back of my head anymore.
But for now nothing but missing on the Dyno until we change the plugs tomorow.
Long day, will follow tomorow.
So for 100 shot we are using 28 for fuel. Before it was 31. We also have a 26 just in case I am still to fat on the fuel side.
We should be dialed in tomorow and can either rule in or out the pullies.
If the car doesn't KR or fall on it's face at 4l rpm's like it did at the track on a Dyno Motor run then it *can't* be the UR pulley's.
So now we wait....
Even in snd gear it's was just missing. 100 shot run in 4th was a jaggedy 219rwhp lol.
motor run was less than stock before upgrades at about 196.
Culprit?
The installer who did my ZEX Kit used the 2 degree off ZEX plugs (no problem there) except he put the n20 jet on the fuel side and vice versa when we upped the jets to 100 (same time pulley's were added.)
So.... The plugs are melted lol. All 6 of them.
Not one Nissan Dealer even carried the STOCK heat range plug!
Long story short is that my car is staying at the Dyno Shop over night (good people) and all 6 melted black plugs are pulled.
We spent 2 hours finding 2 degrees colder plugs and we have the jetting right and the UR pulley's back on.
So, tomorow morning will be tediuos but I am off.
Pick up the plugs at 9am, go way back out to my car in Orangevale.
Have new plugs installed then redyno.
Long story short, it was the plugs.
However we can't rule out pulley's either because we can't do a proper dyno with melted plug electrodes!
Back at it tomorow. This will prove it tomorow because we went and bought the right jets and I always wondered if the installer for ZEX bothered to change my plugs and now I know hee did so that won't be stuck in the back of my head anymore.
But for now nothing but missing on the Dyno until we change the plugs tomorow.
Long day, will follow tomorow.
So for 100 shot we are using 28 for fuel. Before it was 31. We also have a 26 just in case I am still to fat on the fuel side.
We should be dialed in tomorow and can either rule in or out the pullies.
If the car doesn't KR or fall on it's face at 4l rpm's like it did at the track on a Dyno Motor run then it *can't* be the UR pulley's.
So now we wait....
Hey J,
Brandon and Marko's Automotive said it was straight N20 into the plugs, the fuel keeps the plugs cooler, mine didn't have any fuel because the holes in the jets were bawards!
Rememeber when my 15 foot 4-an line blew at the track, that was it man. Live and learn. Do it yourself if you want it done right.
P.S. That's the Dyno shop with A/F I told you about they have a website now and are growing. They are teaming up with Diablo to announce some new cool stuff.
I left the flyer in my car their but they are taking pics and putting my car on their website.
Hey,
my Nextel is off charging, call me at home?
P.S. Thankd Ben and others the pulley's are in God's hands (I mean good hands)
Brandon and Marko's Automotive said it was straight N20 into the plugs, the fuel keeps the plugs cooler, mine didn't have any fuel because the holes in the jets were bawards!
Rememeber when my 15 foot 4-an line blew at the track, that was it man. Live and learn. Do it yourself if you want it done right.
P.S. That's the Dyno shop with A/F I told you about they have a website now and are growing. They are teaming up with Diablo to announce some new cool stuff.
I left the flyer in my car their but they are taking pics and putting my car on their website.
Hey,
my Nextel is off charging, call me at home?
P.S. Thankd Ben and others the pulley's are in God's hands (I mean good hands)
Last edited by 12SecZ; May 29, 2003 at 07:57 PM.
I'll call ya tomorrow, couldn't get on the site to see this until late....i'm glad you're doing the research into this.........i almost called off my UR install.....now that it's starting to look like things are okay, i'm going ahead as planned.........hello deep 13's
MAXHAX, I'm confused.
You were using 52 jets for N2O and 31 jets for fuel from another post. But, the installer had reversed them, meaning you were actually running 31 N2O and 52 fuel. This would be an overly rich condition which would slow you down but why would it melt the plugs or cause the engine to knock by being too rich?
Yet you stated,
"ZEX,
The N20 jet is too fat it's a 31! That's what Bottle Fed racing recommended. It should be a 26 or 27!" Did you mean to say "fuel jet?"
Thanks in advance for clarification.
You were using 52 jets for N2O and 31 jets for fuel from another post. But, the installer had reversed them, meaning you were actually running 31 N2O and 52 fuel. This would be an overly rich condition which would slow you down but why would it melt the plugs or cause the engine to knock by being too rich?
Yet you stated,
"ZEX,
The N20 jet is too fat it's a 31! That's what Bottle Fed racing recommended. It should be a 26 or 27!" Did you mean to say "fuel jet?"
Thanks in advance for clarification.
The fuel was the one that was too small after we switched them. The Nitrous was too large ( at the time of the foul) I have a pic just no time.
STLZ Why are you caling me by my real last name and claiming that the plugs still melt the into the heads?
What is your last name so I can hereby refer to you as such???
I think ZEX needs to have a seriuos talk to you about your libel of their product. Infact I think I will email them this thread and your BARRAGE of OM's about their plugs melting into the head.
Your stance is that their plugs are too short and will melt and ruin the threading on the almiunum head right?
BS, that's NOT what happened and today is not a good day to fug with me unless you want to start some mess you can't finish.
If you feel the need then start it up but in advance I will shut you down WITH A QUICKNESS and it will be back by reak data not unsunsantiated BS of yours.
If I sold you something I will find your real name and hereby us it in all posts directed towards you.
Anger rant deleted on how I really FEEL.
STLZ Why are you caling me by my real last name and claiming that the plugs still melt the into the heads?
What is your last name so I can hereby refer to you as such???
I think ZEX needs to have a seriuos talk to you about your libel of their product. Infact I think I will email them this thread and your BARRAGE of OM's about their plugs melting into the head.
Your stance is that their plugs are too short and will melt and ruin the threading on the almiunum head right?
BS, that's NOT what happened and today is not a good day to fug with me unless you want to start some mess you can't finish.
If you feel the need then start it up but in advance I will shut you down WITH A QUICKNESS and it will be back by reak data not unsunsantiated BS of yours.
If I sold you something I will find your real name and hereby us it in all posts directed towards you.
Anger rant deleted on how I really FEEL.
Last edited by 12SecZ; Jun 1, 2003 at 01:38 AM.
Every gear even 2nd gear runs on all motor
smooth as silk, 4th gear all the way up to redline no KR graph is like butter all the way accross.
I left the shop in a hurry because I got an emergency call.
They didn't even chrge me for an hour Dyno time and changing the plugs because they saw what condition I was in and had to go.
Anyways,
I have pics and need to go Dyno on the bottle to complete the process the bottle is full and I was supposed to race last night evrything got cancelled by one phone call and I am sorry to leave you all hanging I needed a day off and didn't sleep at all last night.
My local friend is having the pulley's put on if that helps, he trusts the Dyno chart enough to know that if there was any false knocl or KR it would of showed in any gear.
As for STLZ, I helped him in many many emails and for him to call out my families name about some stupid theory of his concerning ZEX plugs melting into the head and causing your aluminum block to need to be rethreaded.
I lost my brother yesterday STLZ and you used his name, and I WILL NEVER forgive you for personalizing the issue of your plug theory while I was grieving a USMC Vet, a friend and a brother.
You never even answered the simple question of what temp aluminum melts at. Yet you took a big **** on my family while we were grieving. And that again is my nice reply to you STLZ.
Do not PM or email any more asking any questions or asking for help and I will be more of a man than you and keep your real name out of it.
Many business transactions have taken place on this forum.
6 or 7 members have bought from me on this board alone. Is it right for me to post their real last name? Let ZEX and my Employer deal with you if they choose to my job is sensitive and you just ruined my anonimity in one post, and you just lost a friend for life.
smooth as silk, 4th gear all the way up to redline no KR graph is like butter all the way accross.
I left the shop in a hurry because I got an emergency call.
They didn't even chrge me for an hour Dyno time and changing the plugs because they saw what condition I was in and had to go.
Anyways,
I have pics and need to go Dyno on the bottle to complete the process the bottle is full and I was supposed to race last night evrything got cancelled by one phone call and I am sorry to leave you all hanging I needed a day off and didn't sleep at all last night.
My local friend is having the pulley's put on if that helps, he trusts the Dyno chart enough to know that if there was any false knocl or KR it would of showed in any gear.
As for STLZ, I helped him in many many emails and for him to call out my families name about some stupid theory of his concerning ZEX plugs melting into the head and causing your aluminum block to need to be rethreaded.
I lost my brother yesterday STLZ and you used his name, and I WILL NEVER forgive you for personalizing the issue of your plug theory while I was grieving a USMC Vet, a friend and a brother.
You never even answered the simple question of what temp aluminum melts at. Yet you took a big **** on my family while we were grieving. And that again is my nice reply to you STLZ.
Do not PM or email any more asking any questions or asking for help and I will be more of a man than you and keep your real name out of it.
Many business transactions have taken place on this forum.
6 or 7 members have bought from me on this board alone. Is it right for me to post their real last name? Let ZEX and my Employer deal with you if they choose to my job is sensitive and you just ruined my anonimity in one post, and you just lost a friend for life.
Step 8
Install new plugs
Dyno all motor runs back to smooth made 4 or 5 motor runs, battery had died overnight so that had to be fixed. Every Dyno gained about 2 HP, we figured this was the MAF learning since the battery reset
New battery here
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=31596
A final motor run gain (with UR Pulley's of 9HP over my last highest Dyno. Of course that was 5000 miles ago but no KR on any motor runs at any gear.
Step 8 (here is where it gets interesting)
3 N20 runs 363 TC! Straight climb up the chart!
Thus the 1.7 60' till about 4k rpm's then blank spots which the Dyno Operator equated to ECU losing signal.
His and my only explanation of the culprit?
UR Pullies causing false KR due to exsessive vibration because of lack of damper at very high speeds and vibrations.
220HP and 363 Torque??
Exact same results as the track. 1.7 60' with a 99MPH Trap?
Next step (someone help me keep trap I am swamped)
Step 9.
Back to stock Pulley's tommorow, plugs have been semi ruled out but the triple electrode used by ZEX is also a suspect to confuse the ECU. Problem? Can't find any other plugs!
Anyone have a source for 1 degree cooler NGK that isn't "short" or has this triple electrode?
If we change the Pulley *AND* the plugs at the same time we will never know right? So one step at a time. It's going to be awhile, back to work tomorow and family funeral next week but I am following this through till the end!
So far, UR Pulley's on motor, good mod good gains
UR Pulley's and ZEX NO GOOD on Dyno or Track!
If I redyno next week after the Funeral and get the same thing it's down to plugs. Too hot to race too 97 degrees 100 tomorow.
My family needs me right now anyway but I thought I would check in with an update instead of leaving everyone hanging.
Stock Pulley's back on tomorow, then work and personal then hopefully in a week Dyno.
All of this is being done at a great price too and charts will be provided when it's all worked out.
www.chassisdynopower.com AKA Marco's Automotive
Till then any NGK plug numbers one degree colder for my engine and I will order now and they can change them on the spot next Dyno if going back to stock pulley's still cause ECU issue.
This gives me a week to have the plugs ordered. Caan anyone help?
Install new plugs
Dyno all motor runs back to smooth made 4 or 5 motor runs, battery had died overnight so that had to be fixed. Every Dyno gained about 2 HP, we figured this was the MAF learning since the battery reset
New battery here
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=31596
A final motor run gain (with UR Pulley's of 9HP over my last highest Dyno. Of course that was 5000 miles ago but no KR on any motor runs at any gear.
Step 8 (here is where it gets interesting)
3 N20 runs 363 TC! Straight climb up the chart!
Thus the 1.7 60' till about 4k rpm's then blank spots which the Dyno Operator equated to ECU losing signal.
His and my only explanation of the culprit?
UR Pullies causing false KR due to exsessive vibration because of lack of damper at very high speeds and vibrations.
220HP and 363 Torque??
Exact same results as the track. 1.7 60' with a 99MPH Trap?
Next step (someone help me keep trap I am swamped)
Step 9.
Back to stock Pulley's tommorow, plugs have been semi ruled out but the triple electrode used by ZEX is also a suspect to confuse the ECU. Problem? Can't find any other plugs!
Anyone have a source for 1 degree cooler NGK that isn't "short" or has this triple electrode?
If we change the Pulley *AND* the plugs at the same time we will never know right? So one step at a time. It's going to be awhile, back to work tomorow and family funeral next week but I am following this through till the end!
So far, UR Pulley's on motor, good mod good gains
UR Pulley's and ZEX NO GOOD on Dyno or Track!
If I redyno next week after the Funeral and get the same thing it's down to plugs. Too hot to race too 97 degrees 100 tomorow.
My family needs me right now anyway but I thought I would check in with an update instead of leaving everyone hanging.
Stock Pulley's back on tomorow, then work and personal then hopefully in a week Dyno.
All of this is being done at a great price too and charts will be provided when it's all worked out.
www.chassisdynopower.com AKA Marco's Automotive
Till then any NGK plug numbers one degree colder for my engine and I will order now and they can change them on the spot next Dyno if going back to stock pulley's still cause ECU issue.
This gives me a week to have the plugs ordered. Caan anyone help?
Here's a line from my previous Harmonic Balancer 101 thread
_______________
"Since the strength of the exciting impulse is proportional to the peak torque of the engine, we need to be concerned about running our engines in high torque conditions... like above 3500 rpm. Also as MaxHax stated in another thread, the use of N2O would not be very smart if running without a harmonic damper due to serious amounts of torque generated."
__________________
From what MaxHax is currently saying... it totally goes along with my theory.... because of the large amounts of torque created, the torsional distortion is amplified.
The UR pulleys IMO are a definate no-no due to lack of damping ability... even when not on N2O... event htough power gains are realized without running N2O torsional distortion is still taking place.. albeit in undetectable amounts.... bottom line is the crank is not being damped...
Use UR pulley at your own risk....
_______________
"Since the strength of the exciting impulse is proportional to the peak torque of the engine, we need to be concerned about running our engines in high torque conditions... like above 3500 rpm. Also as MaxHax stated in another thread, the use of N2O would not be very smart if running without a harmonic damper due to serious amounts of torque generated."
__________________
From what MaxHax is currently saying... it totally goes along with my theory.... because of the large amounts of torque created, the torsional distortion is amplified.
The UR pulleys IMO are a definate no-no due to lack of damping ability... even when not on N2O... event htough power gains are realized without running N2O torsional distortion is still taking place.. albeit in undetectable amounts.... bottom line is the crank is not being damped...
Use UR pulley at your own risk....
At this point in time you seem to have been right. It doesn't explain the motor runs being normal but then much less torque on the motor without N20 so still within the bounds of your theory of TQ above 3500 rpm's but I have a friend locally who installed them w/o issue for just motor runs and HE should be the one who can answer any UR Motor only concerns.
If it is not an N20 issue but a Pulley issue then UR should recall the dang things agreed?
But yes, I concur with your original findings but stock pulley's on N20 on the Dyno and track will be the ultimate test.
I have never owned a car for more than 40k miles so long term engine abuse is not an issue with me but I'm sure it is with others.
By the way here is the over heated ZEX plug.
If it is not an N20 issue but a Pulley issue then UR should recall the dang things agreed?
But yes, I concur with your original findings but stock pulley's on N20 on the Dyno and track will be the ultimate test.
I have never owned a car for more than 40k miles so long term engine abuse is not an issue with me but I'm sure it is with others.
By the way here is the over heated ZEX plug.


