So the kit is finaly done with everything hooked up and fully functional. Its jeted for a 75 shot but today when i tried it, nothing. It as in the 30s so bottle pressure was just over 800 but i felt absolutely nothing (and yes im positive).

I tested the solenoids to make sure they were firing before without anything hooked up and they were. Im hoping its something to do with the setup of the dynotune window switch. I have both channels set for 3300 RPMS to 6600. When I WOT in the window range, i get three 1s across the display. I dont know if that right or not.

Any help would be great and please ask questions and i can provide more detail if you think you know what the problem is.

Thanks

 

Hmm...maybe its the setting for the rpm. It may not be reading it right. Or it may even be that its needing a higher voltage from the Throttle position sensor.

wonder if adding the utec effected the TPS and RPM wires?

 

Your bottle pressure is quite low too. You need a heater to get it up to about 950+.

I am not implying that that's why you don't feel it, but 800psi is pretty low.

 

Its got to be the window switch... Why dont you just eliminate the switch and control the Nitrous with the utec

 

Exactly. I just noticed he had a UTEC.

 

Never really considered it. I installed the UTEC after kit was done for a tune later. Im going to play with relays today and see if they are activating. I

If all else fails then ill switch to the UTEC for control.

 

UTEC doesn't have gear lock out like the dyno tune TPS/Window switch. Holla at Golfin...he just had his all done. I have the same window switch but can't remember how I hooked it up. Its been 2 years. Its a tricky install and the instructions aren't much help.

 

The window switch was hooked up and operated fine before the utec was installed.

We tested that all solenoids fired properly. Chase came back later and we installed the utec. If the solenoids are firing then the car should respond. Yes 850 is low, but compared to 900-1000 psi, your still at 85-90% pressure.

Nitrous installs can be a pita with all the electronics you have to install. We installed:


Pressure gauge with electronic pressure sender
Dynotune nitrous window switch
Dynotune nitrous control panel
Bottle opener
bottle heater
Purge solenoid
n20 solenoid
fuel solenoid
bottle heater pressure switch

everything needs a power, ground and signal wire. The pressure gauge had 3 additional wires for the sender and a power/ground for the led lighting. The window switch had 2 input signals and two output channels which feed relays. The bottle heater circuit has a daisy chain style control signal which wasnt hard to install ( had one minor issue that blew a fuse but spotted that in a few seconds, dumb error)

We installed and checked everything as we went, all went well for the most part. Im thinking its a failed relay, it was a used kit and relays fail after a certain number of clicks.

chase, if i make it to HH over the break maybe we can goto james house and trouble shoot it.

 

^^ very possible. I would have bought all new relays if I ever bought a used nitrous kit. Never have though. Always new.

check dyno tune's website for the "111" code that pops up. Could be an error code telling you the relay is bad or that the window switch is bad.

 

If you're messed up the UTEC will do nothing for you. From what you said your solenoid circuit is wrong. Even if the Noz solenoid didn't open up you would have boagged (sp) the motor because you dumped in all that extra fuel.

 

no no no, the nitrous and fuel solenoids feed off the same relay, one goes down, they both go down. No need to let the car bogg or go boom, just cuts the power and leaves you blue balled.

He has a spare relay, but damn radioshack went up on them. theyre like 9 dollars now, ****in scammers.

the 111 code......didnt even think about that
should be 100 when you go wot. Sure its no 1ll . The l would imply locked out via gear(waiting to see wot/rpm before it engages), but we disabled that. Try setting that to a 1 again and see if it responds.

 

I'm looking into the 111 for ya too. It's an error code (Ya, no kidding huh?), but I'll let you know exactly what it is when the tech gets back to me. But start by eliminating all the switches and just have the arm switch direct to the ground side of the Noz's circuit relay. Make sure you have the line cleared of Noz and bottle CLOSED or just take off the line at the solenoid!!!! Otherwise when you start it back up........................ I'll look for you in the classifieds.

 

I said what I did earlier so that you could also eliminate the bad solenoid theory. Hopefully the relay is messed up only on you. Easy fix that way.

 

you never know with new products. I have never seen that, but my dynotune window switch is up in my dash. No reason to change rpm activation on the fly. Left mine a 3800rpms.

 

As far as the three ones go... the second 2 1s (X11) come on when its in the window range. As far as the relay goes, long story... still have to try it with the new relay. Another problem thats coming up is that the bottle wont heat over 800-850psi. Its about 55-60 degrees outside and i left it on in the car for about an hour.

This stuff is kinda fustrating but chris i know your going to want to kill me but... a supercharger really is looking pretty good right now.

 

just lmk chase...........youve got the utec, now you just need a tuner kit and injectors and a walbro...........

 

A S/C with nitrous sounds pretty good...

 

twins with spray sounds even better

 

it is

 

is that why you still had your gym bag in your car when I saw it at SGP?