I modified this Moroso switch panel to fit my cubby and to control all my nitrous stuff: Arm, heater, opener, purge and various other accessories are going to be controlled here. I cut the fuse location out of the bottom of the panel and angled the faceplate to fit. i also replaced the starter switch with the nos momentary switch to control the purge.
Theirs:


Mine:




I need to know if it makes sense to run one large power wire from the fuse box the back of this panel and distribute the power from there? and whether of not i need to use any relays? All these switches are rated at 20amps and seem really well built.

 

Installed pics soon.

 

wow ummm very baller sorry i did not see you again at import alliance man and i am about to up my shot to a hundred shot

 

it's all good...my brains felt like they were boiling by the time 2pm rolled around so I just left. You really need to tune your car before you go any further. I'd hate to see you blowing your motor. I'd get your jets right first and see how a real "75" feels.

 

anybody with any thoughts in regard to my question?

 

Sorry for not having an answer to your question but do you have any 1/4 mile times for your setup?

 

not yet but i've got a hp estimate...installed I should be looking at 350whp on the 75 shot. Hopefully I'll have some numbers soon.

 

I would say you are pushing it with 20amps. Solenoids draw up to 20 amps, current consumption for a dynotune bottle warmer is 20amps. You have fuel and nitrous solenoids that can both draw up to 20amps each, and then you would wire them to the same switch, but then again, you wire fuel and nitrous to the same relay. You could probably wire purge solenoid without a problem since you turn it on for a very short amount of time. You can wire the remote bottle opener on it directly, since with the dynotune bottle opener you wire it directly to the dynotune switch gauge. I would personally put a relay for the fuel and nitrous solenoid and the warmer, but bottle opener and purge you can probably get away with.

 

cool thanks...good thoughts. I'm also considering a relay that powers this whole switch box that has a feed that turns it on when acc. is triggered and fuse each switch seperatly. Are you sure on the solenoid current draw numbers? I think my kit came with this crappy switch to arm the system which would also have to pass the current to the solenoids and I'm pretty sure it's far crappier than those in my panel. I'm definately using a relay with the heater. Any thoughts on gauge of wire going to these pieces dependent on current draw?

 

just checked it and the crappy switch the system comes with has a 15 amp fuse to arm and power the whole zex box which includes both solenoids.

 

I would say it is more important what your solenoids and components draw. If your solenoid only draws 10amps you can get away with a switch rated for 15amps. I was just using Dynotune solenoid as an example but check your manual to the actual specs. I know that the Dynotune 175hp solenoid draws up to 20amp and the 250hp solenoid draws up to 30amp. As for wiring I think for short distances you can go 16-18ga and for longer distances you have to go bigger like 12-14ga

 

thanks for the ideas...I'm going to use a 10ga power wire off the battery to a 40a relay, then to a power distribution block to my switches. I'm going to run the bottle heater off it's own relay and it's own power wire and just use the switch to trip the heater relay. Does that sound about right?

 

im not getting how you will use that 40a relay. Do you mean relay or fuse? For the bottle heater, that should be fine how you have it then.

 

I'm using the 40a to turn on my whole switch panel so that the switches can't possibly be on while the car is on. Then i'm going to use a power distribution block to split the one power lead from the battery into all the power connections I need for all the switches. There will be a seperate battery lead and relay for the heater. I think that makes sense?

 

I think i get what you are saying. How are you going to trigger the fuel and nitrous solenoids?

OT, how do you like your nismo short shifter?

 

I think I'm going to trigger the solenoids with a combination of the TPS switch on the ZEX box and the Utec feeding a rpm window. I'm going to use the Utec's spare solenoid feature by connecting the ground that the UTEC triggers to a relay and use that relay to trigger power to the ZEX box? I like the nismo shifter alot...theonly thing that sucks is the bronze bushings my buddy made for me make this thing rattle like crazy.

 

yeah i am about to go single turbo so the nitrous will not stay on long i am not too worried about it cause i never spray it... i am going to get a wideband(i need that anyways for the turbo kit) and a bottle warmer and call it a day i will have a turbo kit pretty soon like hopefully by the end of this month

 

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whats wrong cracker jack? you did not know i am trying to go boost? i am selling my built eclipse just so i can do it

 

no it was just a little random. cracker jack?