Haha, sorry I replied to that late last night. But eric's right, I had a program in my palm pilot that would log o2 readings. Some people tune by o2 readings but a lot of people think its very inaccurate. That little chart is what the o2 readings translate to regarding A/F.

 

that's cool; thanks.

 

My recent dyno runs

Run 1 - Baseline
233.4 HP/ 225.3 TQ

Run 2 - 75 shot 41/24
294.9 HP/ 332.5 TQ

Run 3 - 100 shot 52/31
321.5 HP/ 387.3 TQ

 

and

 

on the dyno

 

Just a quick post to say thanks for the great thread.

I learned a lot.

 

Glad it helped

 

Great write-up & very informative...thanks! As I'm currently interested in installing a nitrous system on my Brabus E.

Also, kudos to having a dedicated forum for nitrous oxide...as many others don't have this luxury.

 

i wanted to ask this question in here cause there are alot of n2o users in here:
is the purge it really necessary?

i ask cause i had a 150 shot wet kit in my iroc-z about 5 years back & didnt have a purge kit. i never got any burps or uneven feeling surges when i ran the n2o. back then they said the purge was to get any air trapped in the line out before running but i never got any air burps(that i know of).......

any input is appreciated,

-justin

 

you wont get any "burps". what happens is right when the nitrous is engaged, the warmed nitrous in the lines (that has partially become a gas) goes into your system first. so if you're running a 150 shot for example, you'll get something like a 100 to 125 shot when the system activates until that air in the lines is used up. of course this takes a split second before the lines have liquid nitrous flowing threw them. but when your drag racing, everything counts...even if it is a split second.

you get more a lag feel right when the nitrous engages specially with higher shots because for that split second at the point of activation, you are running very rich. you have a lot of gas flowing in, but not pure nitrous flowing in. it does bog down the system if only for a split second. the shots are set up to where they're safe to run without a purge setup, but designed for optimum output with a purge system.

a good rule of thumb is the purge kit is good atleast .1 faster time in the 1/4 mile.

i guess it all comes down to what your application will be. street use, then its not a bid deal. but if you'll be dragracing a lot, then its a must.

 

Plus it looks cool.

Anyways, updated my system today.

Got rid of the Zex Heater and bought a pressure regulated heater from Dynotune.org. I also bought a Digital Pressure Gauge from Dynotune.org.

I also got tired of having to push my seat forward, climb in, and do a few yoga poses, like downward dog, just to see my bottle pressure.

I'm kinda proud of myself because I installed it on my own, I usually enlist the help of a few friends when it comes to any electrical work, but I was able to do it no problem. I wired it so my little neon tube and the pressure gauge come on when I turn on the bottle heater.






First impressions:

1. Bottle Heater
Heats up quickly took the pressure from 850 to 1000 in about 5 minutes. Effectively keeps the pressure in the optimum range of 950-1000.

2. Digital Pressure Gauge
Good stuff! Nuff said. Does what its supposed to do and does it well. Don't waste your time with a regular pressure gauge.


Only hurdle I came upon was leaking at the bottle adaptor. Just a quick aplication of teflon tape and all was good. Can't wait to put these items to use when I dyno again this Saturday. Going with a smaller fuel jet because I was pig rich on the 100 shot last time. I'll post how it goes.

 

Great info. Much appreciated!

-justin

 

re the spark plugs, which should i buy, and where's a good place to get 'em cheap?

 

Not so sure on where to get the plugs bro, can't remember do a search for the part number I listed.

 

you can get 1 step colder from denso IKH20
or 2 step colder from denso IKH22 . both are irridiums.

ngk makes a 1 step coder copper plug, but im not sure what the part number is. ptpmotorsports.com sells the dinso irridiums, so go there if you wanna get them.

 

Since this is the comprehensive nitrous install thread, I've gotta put the bad stuff in with the good.

Intake blew up due to nitrous backfire, check this thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=90224

 

I plan on running at Irwindale in a month or so when I have everything running nice and neat

 

HAVE U GONE TO THE TRACK

 

I just got my 350Z. I had a Celica GTS before and used to run a 75 shot (NX) I want to put my kit on the Z so this thread has helped a lot so far.
I have a few questions:
1) the celi also had a drive by wire and I used the NX TPS switch. I want to do the same on the Z because I don't think the under the pedal wot switch is accurate enough. Does anyone know which wire to splice in for the TPS signal

2) I also need to know the wire for the tach signal in order to hook up my mallory window switch

3) I used the T before to splice the fuel line can you elaborate on the SPX adaptor, what exactly is it and what are the pros or cons over that vs the T

4) when I ran a 75 shot on the celi I always ran 103 octane gas to be safe due to the high compression. Are you guys running 91 on a 100 shot or 103? and If you're running 91 have you had any issues

5) NX suggest 2 steps colder plugs but I'm reading most of you are using 1 step colder, have there been any issues related to that

and last
6) How in the universe do yoiu change the plugs on the Z? the manual actually states have your dealer do it and when I looked it seemed almost impossible to get there...

thanks for replying in advance

 

Was that 13.7 you got on your Celica at LACR palmdale?