There were at least 2 of us using 73 n20 & 43 fuel with no problems for at least 2 months! We both had ZEX kits and on mine I use a Nos Splitter so I can use Nos pills! ( Zex & Nos have the same shot size but differ in the outer shape of the pill- I found it easier to get Nos pills vs Zex).

 

Hmm 73/43 interesting... any dynos or track times?
My friend do the same change it for NOS... is better!!!

 

See my sig for times and rwhp using 73/40. I switched to the 73/43 combo soon after, but did not go back to the track...the stock clutch would not hold so I had to hunt around for an upgrade, which was recently installed.

 

73/40 for 140 WHP??? with the zex "fogger"... rigth??? you see the same dynos that your friend with the NOS fogger???

Thanks!

 

im using NX....46/28 (100 wet shot running on the rich side) without a prob
will be upping it to a 150 - possibly 200 shot this summer, cant wait.

not sure on whp with the 100shot, havent had the chance to dyno yet, but ill have to do that before i go any higher.

and as for my 1/4 time....it was in 45 degree weather, making my M/T's useless. a lot of room for improvment on that 60foot.

i can post some pics of my instal if anyone is interested??

 

Do you know for sure you're running on the rich side if you haven't dyno'd it? Also, I know every car is different, but lets say you have modifications before the ntirous, like intake and exhaust or something, will that affect your A/F? And yes please post pics.

 

I dyno'ed 144 (Dynojet) on the 73/40 numerous times so I feel it's pretty accurate! 1/8 mile in consistent 7.5's with a best of 1.62 in 60 ft.! The above was without my new mods of pistons,cams, & JWT flywheel which I will dyno this morning. I will also dyno on the bottle if evething looks okay.

 

Mjedens:

You replace your pistons because you broke them with the Nitrous??? or you think they can handle the 150+ shot OK?
7.5's in the 1/8 is easy a 11.xx in the 1/4 mile... that pretty nice!!!
please let us know your Dyno!!!!

 

im not exactly sure im running on the rich side, BUT im basing it on this. my buddy is running the ZEX 125 shot.

he is running 51/28 or 52/28 for a 125 shot to my 46/28 for my 100 shot. i've been told that zex and nx and nos jets "pills" are fairly the same. according to his numbers im running rich...but im not sure....he could be running lean.


as for mods, they do effect a/f...atleast the air mixture is affected with the CAI. and n2o definately toys with the a/f...thats kind of its job. and the only other mods to the engine i've done are colder plugs, grounding kit, and cai.


i posted this a while ago, but i just added a few pics that i took a few days back including a purge-ing pic. as for the push button, i dont like where i put it too much, so ill b moving it to a more easy to reach spot this winter.

enjoy
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=45011

 

im sure nitrous is fun, and ive wanted it, but it will greatly decrease your engine life. If a engine blew at 300 shots, then doing 100 shots, for a long time, and greatly decrease engine life. I want this car running hard for the next 6 years at least, without engine replacemnt. I'm going to upgrade the crap out of it, but nitrous just kills the engine a little too much. What does everyone else think on this subject.

 

I think the stock pistons & rods can handle the size of shot I was using. I destroyed a head & 4 valves because of a fuel additive ( NX Power Boost) while I was on a Dyno! I went ahead & replaced the internals because " I was already there"! My stock pistons & rods were not damaged so I have them in my basement waiting for an offer! The dyno today was somewhat successful! I showed an increase of 28.7 RWHP on the motor but had a "wacky A/F chart. The A/F ratio stayed at 15.8 to 5000 rpm & then traveled down to 13.7 @ 7000 rpm. Needless to say, I did not spray, will be sending back my ECU to TS along with charts to see what they can do to help me! I assume the cams ( 268 Tomei) are the culprit! Please remember , this last upgrade also included the JWT flywheel along with the new internals!

 

im not saying nitrous is good for the engine, but its a lot easier on your engine when comparing it to say a TC, TT, or SC. those things are always on, meaning your engine is taking that being every time you turn the key. but nitrous is more of an on demand type of thing.

i picked nitrous over any of those other FI mods because it was a lot cheaper more power and it was a lot cheaper :-), and i was looking for something that wasnt always on, and because i get lead foot only on the weekends or track days.

 

what is a good a/f mixture?

by the way thanks again for the quick replys mjendens

 

I agree, not only that, but a supercharger has to make MORE power or put more combustion stress on the engine to make the same horsepower as nitrous, since it needs to also overcome the parasitic loss to drive the supercharger. Not to mention nitrous cools the intake charge (less chance of detonation) and a supercharger can heat it up (increased chance of detonation).
Not to sound anti-supercharger, they sure are alot more convenient than these bottle refills!

I would say a good air/fuel ratio with larger shots of nitrous is somewhere in the 11:1 and 12:1 range, probably wouldn't want to go any leaner than that. Your 46/28 is a calculated 10:1 (by itself), which when that 100hp of nitrous/fuel mix is averaged with the rest of the air/fuel it's probably pretty a pretty good and safe 11.x:1 I'm guessing.

 

mjedens, do you know what was in the additive or why it caused the failure? I assume it was something that caused the fuel solenoid to fail or not open? (I've heard this about methanol).

 

bottle refils can and do get annoying. but its still worth it.

andspeaking of a seleniod failing...

now i wouldnt mind if the n2o seleniod was to fail, then all that would happen is my car would stall out turn off. BUT im worried about the fuel seleniod failing.

i dont think this is possible with the Zex kits, but what if instead of wiring the n2o and fuel seleniod in a parallel circuit we wire it in a series circuit?

if i am to wire it this way, then once im WOT and power is sent to the seleniods, it would have to go threw the fuel seleniod first then the n2o seleniod. delay would practicly be 0 because we're talking 2-3 feet of wire at most. now if the fuel seleniod fails, and i mean burns out, then no power would be sent to the n2o seleniod.

this would only be usefull if the fuel seleniod fries and is no longer functioning, not stuck, or wont open for any other reason. if it fries, then the circuit is interupted and power never reaches the n2o seleniod which in turn makes ur engine go boom without the presence of extra fuel.

does this seem possible to anyone here? it would be one less thing that "could" go wrong.

does this make any sense?

 

12.0 to 13.0 to me is in a range of good safety mix!!!

I have Nitrous in my past car(97Camaro SS, 225 shot) for 2 year and never go wrong is was all good... I decided to go with Procharger and blow the engine in 3 weeks (Detonation, Lean condition) personally I preffer Nitrous!!!

 

28.7 rwhp for the cams along is pretty good... I"m assuming that TS put your Timing to advanced... I will not spray with that lean condition!!!
installing the Cams was to hard? how many time to installed?

Thanks!

 

I agree SOMETHING should be done in regards to a safety measure, as having a fuel solenoid fail with no safeguard is unacceptable. I'm not sure wiring in series would work because this now acts as a voltage divider, i.e the 2nd (nitrous) solenoid will not see 12 volts because of the voltage drop across the fuel solenoid "upstream", so it may not be able to open at all. And of course we're assuming when a solenoid goes bad or is stuck closed, the circuit is open - this may not be the case, as I know a friend of mine had a solenoid burn that wouldn't open and it actually was more the opposite and had a short inside.

One possible way to tell us is feedback from the O2 sensors. Have a voltage trigger so that the nitrous solenoid only activates when O2 output is above a certain 'rich' level we set. The moment it goes lean the solenoid closes. Assuming it isn't already too late after that fraction of a second.

 

TS did not advance my timing because they knew I was a Nitrous user! Besides the rev limiters, all they did was add fuel the first go-around. The fuel additive was called " Chemical X " and the specifics on why it did what it did is beyond me! Most all of the N20 companies ( excluding NX of course) advise against it. Some (TNT) even mention it on their install instruction list on "what not to do"!!