Do NOT post any sort of street racing on our forums, please. That is a violation of our TOU and an ban-able offense. Consider this your first and only warning.

 

Thats what i went with...thanks man!...lol. Im guessing my 275's wont fair to well then. lol


One more ?? though. The dynotune instructions state that the wot fuel pressure is 40 psi plus/minus 5 psi. I read elsewhere that the wot fuel pressure is more like 48-50 psi?...I havent ordered my jets yet, thats why i ask...just want to make sure im getting the right sizes

 

I run a 35 Nitrous and 20 fuel jet for the dual nozzle setup. Makes 100whp according to nitrous express.

on 75whp I think it was 31 Nitrous and 18 fuel jet, dont take my word but Im pretty sure!

I should probably get a tune soon for the nitrous but I feel its safe with the step colder plugs, as nitrous express reccomends pulling 1 degree for every 100hp I figure im in a safe range

 

Did you close the gap on the 370 plugs or just rocked n rolled with the oem specs?

 

No need to close the gap

 

Thanks for the great thread man, unfortunately Im at work and cant see the vid so I'll watch it later.

I am curious however on the above. You're running this 100 shot untuned on your car? I would be super paranoid!!

 

Thats weird you say that because the part number you posted is the part number for stock HR plugs


Pic for reference when I replaced mine a year or so ago

 

Yes, 100whp I have ran about 25+ bottles through it at over 95k miles and it runs fine!!

I recently had it dyno tuned and pulled timing, eliminated a lot of the intial lean spike in the system and it runs a lot better...

def lost some power after the timing was pulled safer though

 

They may be proven to run colder, but have they been proven to produce any change in power?

One of the big advantages of nitrous is that it blows colder gasses into the engine than you will ever get with a CAI setup. Many people get overly concerned with running hot when using nitrous, but provided you are using the fuel pressure cutoff or some other safeguard, that shouldn't ever be any problem. In other words, the danger of running hot is running lean. If you aren't running lean, you should actually run cooler than without nitrous. Perhaps a cooler plug adds to that effect...but if that has been proven, maybe it would be better on all 350z's.

I'm not picking or anything here...just questioning or opening for debate or possibly learning something.

I agree on the video compliments...good job.

 

Is that meant to seal threads or lock them? I would use Teflon tape. I've got 20+ years experience as a pipefitter...and the stuff works.

 

Most N2O Kit OEM's recommend NOT using teflon tape. The reason is that the tape tears and breaks apart as the NPT thread deform upon fitment and when exposed to fuel. Solenoids have filter screens built in making them susceptable to bits of tape clogging them. The last thing you want on a wet kit is to clog the fuel solenoid. NPT are supposed to crush seal, loctite seams to fill any micro gaps. I have had great success with loctite blue, rather than be committed when using red.

 

The "colder" part of the plug rating has to do with the porcelien (sp) insulating component. The colder the plug the less chance the plug itself with hold reoccurring heat caused in the cylinder chamber from N2O. Cold plugs release residual heat faster, reducing the chances of knock in the form of pre-ignition detonantion. Running colder plugs even without nitrous has no appreciable effect on pure NA performance in most cases.

 

just as you could put on too much loctite and clog something, there is also a wrontg way to use teflon tape. If you get bits of it inside the pipe, you applied it improperly.

 

Makes sense but if gains are negligible with a NA , I don't see why it would make any more difference with nitrous.

 

OK...I'll give you one.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-ox...-fittings.html

second post within...out of the words of leading kit manufacturers. But if you know better go for it.

 

Educate yourself on the concepts of pre-ignition & detonation.

 

I've been working with piping systems of all kinds for about 25 years so im comfortable with what I have learned. If its good enough for a nuclear plant, is will probably be ok on your car.

 

Never happens without nitrous, huh?

 

over 6 months in, totally fine, ran about 25 bottles so far no loss in power, dynotune progressive controller set at 40% hit and 1.5 second 100% ramp time 3500rpm-7200rpm window switch. comes in strong and smooth, very violent in comparison to the turboed cars I've owned. the nitrous really shines when moving from a roll, instant power and torque nothing like it!!

 

That's why I will probably never run nitrous again. At about $40 a bottle, you've spent $1000 on nitrous, at a rate of $2000/yr. If I ever build another car, I'll go big on a turbo and no nitrous.