Hey guys, I need a little clarification in regards to the use of my bottle heater. I have the Zex Bottle heater which has the built in thermostat. I've been told that the NX heater is better because it actually heats by bottle pressure instead of bottle temperature. I can never get my bottle in between the 900-1000 psi range. Anyways, how do you guys use your heaters.

Do you just turn it on a few minutes prior to racing? Or do you have it on all the time and rely on the thermostat?

Do you turn it on with the bottle open or with the bottle closed? Are there advantages or disadvantages to either? More importantly, is it dangerous to heat the bottle closed?

Lastly, does anyone have the Zex heater and has had good results with it?

 

I like the NX setup better because of the pressure control vs temp but you do have to have the valve open for it to check the pressure vs the temp control which doesn't.

Its not dangerous to heat with the bottle closed if you have the temp control but definately don't do it with the pressure control or it will never turn off.

I only use mine for racing so I turn it on and heat it up on the way to the track and then just keep running it for short periods after that to keep the pressure up and purge a bit if it gets too high.

 

iirc the Zex compensates for bottle pressure so it probably won't matter what pressure you run it at.

 

Well I actually have the NX wet kit, I just bought the Zex heater because I figured they all did the same thing. As for bottle pressure not mattering with the Zex kit, I'm not so sure about that. Why would they be selling a heater if it didn't matter?

 

I wasn't suggesting not having a heater, just that the Zex system does compensate for a lower bottle pressure by adjusting the fuel.

Here is a quote from Zex.

"ZEX™'s patented fuel control technology, reads the nitrous bottle pressure and adjusts the fuel enrichment accordingly. If it is a cool day out and the nitrous bottle pressure is around 700 psi range, the nitrous system will add less enrichment than if it is a warm day and the nitrous bottle is at 950 psi. This unique feature ensures that you always have the optimum ratio of nitrous oxide and fuel, never too rich, never too lean. This ensures maximum power and safety at all bottle pressures."

 

right on

 

right, but low pressure gives you a less potent shot of nitrous. that and he only has the zex heater not the whole kit so there is not way of it "adjusting" itself.

i usually turn the bottle on when i head over to the track so it has some time to heat up. i have the nx heater. the problem with the nx heater is i believe it shuts off at 1050psi. after 1 run that drops to about 750-850 psi. which is not longer in the "green" zone.

i do close the bottle and leave the heater on sometimes just so i can heat the bottle to about 1100-1200 psi. that way im still in the green even after a run. this isnt safe though and i dont recommend it. there is no way for me to forget about the heater and leave it on though because i hooked up the heater in a way in which its only on when the car is on. no chance of blowing things up IF the blow off cap fails.

they should make those heaters bigger to cover more surface area and heat those bottles faster. that or we should just buy two bottle heaters.

 

I actually dont use the control at all, just because of what you stated, but I don't suggest to anyone else to do this because of the safety factor.

Closing the valve will do the same thing except you can't monitor the pressure.


I really don't like being controlled which is one of the reasons I am not a Zex fan.

I also have my activation switches (2 Stage) connected to the steering wheel so I control when they go on and off. One is to the cruise on/off and the other on the other side which controls the computer temp etc. I installed a double pole double throw center off switch for each so I still have the regular function.

The WOT switch is still connected if I mess up. My ultimate plan is to have it work in 3 stage fashion, 1st stage off the line, just the second stage after the 1-2 shift and then hit the 3rd stage (both 1st & 2nd) when I have enough traction in 2nd gear. For a 150 shot it would be 50 (1st stage) off the line, 100 (2nd stage) after the 1-2 shift then 150 (1st & 2nd stage), or any combo can be tried.

My biggest problem right now is traction which I am hoping new slightly larger slicks will help. Anything more than 50 out of the hole and my 60' times drop but with a 50 I can pull a 1.7.

Also I am well into 4th gear (auto) at the line and I am hoping (according to my calcs) the new tires will keep me in 3rd, the 3-4 shift on the Maxima is really slow under spray so I am installing a new digital rpm window switch as well even for the other gears.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread but OMG, that is the most incredible Maxima ever, what a phenominal sleeper car. Thanks for sharing.